Ok so what should I do. Should I sell the na motor aand tranny and buy a real s5 t2 jdm and drop it in before I put any money into the na set up and before I might hurt the na engine?

Now you say if I drop a s5 t2 jdm in it will be faster then a real stock t2 with my na, rear and diff... what about the tranny? I have a fmic... in it now.

 

I think he is saying he regrets getting rid of the 6 port turbo and going "real" 4port turbo.

john ny

 

RTEK 1.Xs ARE available for S5 TIIs.

Ordering an old *** POS Jspec to replace your perfectly healthy engine with bigger intake ports than a TII and higher compression just to make less power is RETARDED.

And 330whp is nowhere NEAR the limit of the power output capability of a 6 port block. Go to AaronCake.net and look up his dyno numbers. joeylyrech is saying his car beat other TIIs BECAUSE he had a turbo on his 6 port block, nothing to do with his drivetrain.

The turbo is not going to be "toast". The exhaust pulses of the engine are stronger (providing better response) but this has NOTHING to do with turbine/compressor wheel speed assuming you have proper wastegate operation and a boost limit of 12psi. It will wear at the same rate as if it were on a TII block running 12psi.

but whatever...do as you wish. If you really don't want to learn go ahead and order a TII engine.

 

Wow look at me not being correct.......when did that start?

john ny

 

I have no clue. You might have confused it for the 2.x's not being available yet.

OP: to find out the S4/S5 thing, I'm not 100% sure but I believe S5 housings have extra casting to help with detonation. I remember reading about it here. Look above your trailing plugs and see if you have the extra casting (the extra material with the hole and crack in the first pic):

S5:

S4:

 

wow guys this thread has really helped me with deciding that my 6 port is really worth buildign and putting a small turbo on for my drift car.

i love these forums!

 

Ok wait one sec. I am learning and it is all due to you and all the other members that are posting on my thread so thank you. You must have missed my post on this thread before. I think I am going to stay with what I have. I am just going to need to get some tools and start working on my beautiful beast with all the info and help you all give me. My car has issues and I have not owned it long but I love it.. I will keep the set up I currently have and try it. hey If I ever blow up the 6port then maybe I will go t2. But you are right... Why in the world would I sell a perfectly running 6port engine for 5 bills to just dump 1200-1300 into a jap imported engine I know nothing about and take a chance on it.

Now that I have made up my mind to keep the set up with the 6port if that is even what it is... The engine has been cracked open and there is no telling what is actually inside. They might have swapped out the rotors and put low comp rotors in it but hey... I will not know. Unless it gets cracked open once again which i can not afford to do.

With this being said this thread should remail open for now I have one new issue maybe you all can help me with...

...Fixing this hell of a leak from the turbo-manifold... I almost passed out as I was driving the car back from pa today... Now lets say it is a bad gasket how can I tell what manifold is on the car?? Is it a custom one?? I am confused.. What if the actual manifold is cracked? Where do I get one to replace it that will fit my block and turbo?

By the way. I am going to order myself a bonez racing non-turbo clutch for my car and a light weight flywheel... Wooo Hooo Just got to get the leak fixed first... Anyone in my area (NY) with the experience who would be willing to help me so I can learn?

Thanks all...

 

keep the engine you have. it already has a t2 front cover.

your idle probably could be a couple things. the throttle body not adjusted properly or the T2 lower intake manifold might not be properly ported to match the 6 port block.

make sure your ECU and pressure sensor are n370. get a boost gauge and make sure it's staying around 8 psi.

if everything is good, replace the clutch with a upgraded ACT and have fun.

as for the turbo leak. its like 4 bolts on the manifold and a couple pair for the water/oil lines. pop the turbo. check for cracks, replace the gasket, and slap it back in. just be glad you don't have ABS otherwise it wouldn't be that easy.

 

Yep for some reason(i think that is because of the higher compression)turbo six ports spools up the turbo faster and it give you a torquier faster car.(of course if the six port motor is on top notch cond)when i went S5 turbo(stock) the car felt a little weak compared to the S4NA turbo,in fact i tried different years rotors and combos and after all i end up with S4 NA rotors on a S5 bridgeported motor that gives me the torque and feels the way i like it,if your six port turbo is running fine,engine has good compression,get a T2 drivetrain some suporting mods to make sure that everything is working happy together and enjoy your car.

 

It would help if you got a piece of paper and a pen in hand, then walk over to the car and write down the number on the ECU and the part number of the boost sensor and afm.

EDIT: and then post those numbers on this thread.

 

Ok let me get this straight.
For the leak I should start by pulling off the turbo inspecting it for cracks, replace the gaskets. Then bolt it back on and I should have no more leak if everything checks out ok??

walken
"your idle probably could be a couple things. the throttle body not adjusted properly or the T2 lower intake manifold might not be properly ported to match the 6 port block." <-- How would I make sure the ports match up to the 6 port engine?

Walken"make sure your ECU and pressure sensor are n370. get a boost gauge and make sure it's staying around 8 psi." <<--I think the car has the n370 ecu in it now. But I am not sure what harness is in it. I have no idea where the perssure sensor is. So I am not sure where to dinf it or evven what to look for. Oh wait is the pressure sensor on the passenger front strut tower. The little thing peeps plug the fcd into??

The boost gauge I have to get. What other gauges should I get I read that an egt and water temp gauge is important too??

Now before I can start working on this car. I am going to need a few things.
Right now I have no place to work on it. I do not have a garage or shop I can use. Then I am going to need some ramps and jack stand to hold the car up so I can get under it. Then I am going to need to aquire the proper tools.

I am not going to be able to start working on this car until after the 22nd. So I am going to start getting together all the things I am going to need. I am going to head over to sears and buy me a nice a$$ tools set. Some Jack stand. I even need a damn jack. My car is dropped and I dont have a jack that I can get under it. LOL

 

if you have a sixport block your lower intake manifold is gonna have 2 big secondaries intake holes that are gonna look all fucked up maybe with some jb-weld and all getto ported(dont worry you are gonna find out as soon as you take that lower mani of)now look at you engine block,is going to have 6 intake ports the 2 primaries and the 4 secondaries)you need to port the LIM to match the ports on the block but they wont match 100% but it can be done,i done this before,using aluminum welding rods i build up some material around the port and them port match them in order to get a better seal and flow,others use japan2la turbo sixport lower intake manifolds(quality show piece)to prevent leaks plus its modified to fit you block and it will offer a perfect seal and better flow.

 

the engine harness is not important on a S5 TURBO swap(na and turbo uses same harness)
pressure sensor is located on the right hand side strut tower,small black box with a 3 prong connector and a small hose coming from the botton that goes somewhere in the intake mani.
look for the number on that box it should match the ecu number

 

I couldn't keep track of what was happening in this thread, so what I am saying might already be said.

If the car is working fine as is, then just leave it alone and enjoy it. Fix the clutch issue and the little leaks. If everything is working then you are just going to create headaches for yourself if you start swapping out parts.

 

Ok so now I will head outside. It is a beautiful day out today so I might as well use it to me advantagee. I will soon post what ecu and pressure sensor is in the car.

As for the japan2la turbo sixport lower intake manifolds anyone know where I can get one? I honestly don't want to have to be bothered with moding the one on the car. How do I get my current intake manifold off the car to see what has been done. Maybe the intake manifold was not done properly and that is the source of my leak too...

 

Ok I am outside right now.

ECU=N370
Pressure Sensor=N370
I have a harness right next to my ecu.. It is from the Apexi super afc 2. It is currently disconnected. Can anyone tell me how to connect it? The person that owned this car before me cut the super afc2 out and then installed a fcd. The fcd is plugged into the pressure sensor and I know they are bad for these cars I want to remove the FCD and re install the super afc2. I can then tune the car to run right. Is that a good idea??????? KK it is starting to rain I need to head back in and cover this car back up...

EDIT: I just got done coming back in it is starting to rin.. So much for the weather. I look on the side of the engine where the plugs go in and above the trailing plug my engine has the extra hole. On the front housing there is just the extra hole above the trailing but on the rear something is going into it. I couldn't take a pic of it my camera is dead. Is that normal?

 

the FCD is there for a reason dont remove it.you dont need to remove it in order to run a SAFC
I dont want to be an *** but do you have and idea of what are you doing?do you now anything about the car?there is nothing wrong with having a FCD on the car.

 

So you have Turbo ECU and turbo boost sensor. That's a plus. The AFM needs to be looked at also to see if it's Turbo or not.

The rotor housings sound a little suspicious what with both housings having the threaded hole for the knock sensor.

SAFC install instructions are on the APEXI site or the SAFC forum on this site. http://www.apexi-usa.com/support_wiring.asp

https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay...ysprune=&f=123

And it'd be interesting to know just what he did to make the four hole Turbo lower intake manifold mate with the six hole non turbo intake engine.

 

This is only my fourth rx7! First 3 were t2's. So this 6port with turbo is new to me. As for the FCD... I disagree with you totally. In my opinion which might not be worth spit. An FCD will only hurt your engine and cause detonation! Here are some of the things I learned with my past three turbo rx7's.

You remove the exhaust, you put on a less restrictive one. Next thing you know when driving the car boost higher. I know first hand.

My first turbo car an 1987 black t2 no power steering $6,000 I paid for the car back in 1998. As soon as I changed the exhaust and added my boost gauge (same day) I drove the car but ecu was cutting out the fuel to my rear rotor.. My mechanic wanted me to drive it around the block to see that.

My mechanic at the time already had the FCD for my car but he wanted me to drive it to see that the ecu was cutting out the fuel to the rear rotor. Once I drove it and saw that he put the FCD in. We then took it for a ride once again. Man I will never forget... I was hitting 17-18 pounds of boost just from putting the racing beat full exhaust on my car. It was sick... I have proof if you are going to tell me that isn't possible!!! Actually from hitting the 17-18 pounds daily I ended up over heating my turbo, and created a nasty leak and warped my turbo and manifold where they meet up!

That is why I stopped using him.

Now think about this.. The FCD tricks the ecu into thinking the car is only getting 7 pounds of boost when it is NOT you are actually boosting higher then the stock ecu can supply fuel for. So now you are hitting over stock max which stock ecu can only supply enough fuel for max stock amount which I think is 7-8 pounds isn't it??

Well you end up hurting your engine. You end up with detonation due to not enough fuel. The detonation you can even hear most of the time. Now unless you upgrade your fuel system with a stand alone, bigger injectors and better fuel pump you really shouldn't drive the car or limit the boost to 7-8 pounds!! The FCD is only a temp fix that in the end kills your engine! Those are facts!!! Now no offense BUT do you know about these cars???

At least if I am driving the car and feel fuel cut I will instantly back off until I get the car's fuel system where it needs to be. I would actually drive the car easier because I would be too worried to hit the cut off. I am sure all turbo and past turbo owners knows the feeling of not wanting to hit the fuel cut off. Sucks but makes you get it set up right not half asses with a worthless FCD!!!

Well that is my opinion and some past experience take it for what it is worth.


Hailers the Air Fuel Meter is right near the air filter right? It has wires going into it? On a s4 my buddy and I call it texas. On a s5 it is black and round right? If so I will look at the numbers on it.

Why do the rotor housings sound suspicious??

Guys yes I have owned three other RX7's but I have never really worked on these cars. I have always used mechanics. I have had three of these because I love them. But I have gotten rid of all my past three due to they are expensive to fix when always using a mechanic! With this one I want to keep it. I want to learn to do the work myself. I can actually keep it then by saving money and doing it myself. So all thanks for the help. I can't do it with out all the help.

 

Suspicious because your na block shouldnt have that. Yup afm is black and round...thats it. You will definately save a lot of money with info and research on this site.

John ny

 

kk Now I am very confused. Someone posted a pic and said s5 has the extra hole above the trailing plug hole on the housings. So my block is a s5 block. Someone tried telling me it was a s4 block with a s5 front cap and aslo a 6port n/a engine. Guess they didn't know what they were talking about. Now if n/a motors dont have the extra hole abobe the trailing plug... Then what engine does a t2 engine?

**** man can I say that on here we are all adults right??

Now what do I do to find out exactly what engine is in this car?? I am totally lost right now.

 

sounds much like an s5 6 port engine with t2 LIM ( modded ) and T2 UIM
( the thing stuck above the rear hosing trailing plug is the knock sensor for s5 )







this is the "ghetto" mods typically done to the s4/5 LIM to make it suit the block
- and a little mod i do the the block so as to make the runners merge airflow a little friendlier

i have been building hybrid 6 ports/ turbo engines since last century
they work very well when boosted, given consideration for fueling and timing
- you simply CANNOT port any four port motor for this late close timing
( and late close is the most desirable of all ports to suit turbo )
and then count in the off turbo compression !


go for a decent stand alone ECU , and not all those bandaid defenders
unleash the power when you have full control over the ignition and timing !

since yours will be 9.7:1 compression, it will pay to keep the boost low- ish

and also since the hi comp cuts the safety margins
it will be imperative to get some sort of programmable ECU into it
in the US , you have a few different considerations and options to us in aus
( in US in some states it may be desirable to keep the stock look )
nether-less, i would be going for something that allows the MAF to be deleted

PS
i still use my 26 spline 3.9 ex auto NA diff , 30 000 + km on with wide tyres , AOK

 

BTW if its a genuine OEM 6 port block it will have ACV passage on top of the centre plate
and it will also have no stock oil supply for the turbo from front plate
( its sometimes tapped and helicoiled there, or added to the filter pedestal )
and maybe the long , straight oil filler pipe if its not already swapped for a t2 one

- when i rebuild them i will use a T2 primary plate for its better porting potential

 

Wao i just got free a lesson on engine management sistem because i dont know anything about 7s thanks buddy.

 

when engines get rebuild people often swap housings,Lets say S5 NA plates and S4 housings with S5 NA internals or viceversa,so some times the only way to know what is exactly under the hood is to take the engine apart and see what you have inside the motor.Example i have FD plates,S4 turbo housings and S4 NA rotors on a HBP motor,if you look at my motor you will get hella confused trying to figure out what the hell is going on and of course to make it worst is on a FC.