t2 swap= no start!
01-12-09, 01:34 PM
#26
10 pounds sounds so nasty
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wowowowowowow you have a jspec motor did you hook the fuel lines up right ? you had fuel b4 but then you moved the injectors and no fuel now.
on jspec motors the fuel lines are backwards.
the line that comes from the fuel filter goes to the primary, the return goes to the secondary rail.
now you 2 build comp you can go buy some engine oil treatment that stuff is thick, but some inbetween all 6 sufarces on the rotors thro the spark plug holes and see if that doesnt get it to start.
on jspec motors the fuel lines are backwards.
the line that comes from the fuel filter goes to the primary, the return goes to the secondary rail.
now you 2 build comp you can go buy some engine oil treatment that stuff is thick, but some inbetween all 6 sufarces on the rotors thro the spark plug holes and see if that doesnt get it to start.
01-12-09, 11:37 PM
#27
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hahaha.....i know i sound entirely crazy with the bulb thing. Well, now we have the jspec harness hook up. Will be testing it and hopefully know what is the problem. Well, i've got a lot of things not hook up like the O2 sensor, the intercooler, emissions stuff are all out,. Yeah....I don't need them all to start the motor. Let's see what happens.
01-13-09, 02:51 AM
#28
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OK. Mine fires up now. Here's the thing. Is not combusting right earlier on (also why it's flooding). The engine's been sitting for too long. And so our assumption is that the rotors are not rotating smoothly making it rough and hard start. Then we put a battery just for the starter. Meaning undivided power to cranking up engine. Once it fires up, massive amount of white smokes comes out (as most of you guys know). Now is idling alright. A little rough. Needs some fine tuning. Once the engine starts going smoothly, it'll start up a lot easier.
Basically, try hooking up a battery just for the starter to see if it cranks better. Will take a few tries to get it fire up. Good luck!
Basically, try hooking up a battery just for the starter to see if it cranks better. Will take a few tries to get it fire up. Good luck!
01-13-09, 08:31 AM
#29
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Epic... Simply Epic...
Ground checking is good.. Except he stated he already checked for spark.. Since the other symptoms are not symptoms of bad grounding I think we can dismiss this.
No..
You don't need the knock sensor to start the car, especially if your using an N/A ECU.
This thread is full of fail..
To the OP: Try with starting fluid. See if it at least sputters. Do a compression test as well. Report back your findings.
Ground checking is good.. Except he stated he already checked for spark.. Since the other symptoms are not symptoms of bad grounding I think we can dismiss this.
No..
You don't need the knock sensor to start the car, especially if your using an N/A ECU.
This thread is full of fail..
To the OP: Try with starting fluid. See if it at least sputters. Do a compression test as well. Report back your findings.
I tried it with starting fluid, i got a couple puffs of white smoke. I have a theory though.
It sounds like it isnt in time. My theory is that the e-shaft pulley is on wrong. Either the key-way is sheared off or just missing altogether. On the pulley there are two marks that have been painted on the front the same distance from each other as the timing notches. The paint marks are about 120* away from the real marks. I'll post pics of this on friday I hope. Which leads me to my next ? are the n/a and turbo e-shaft pulley's the same?
01-13-09, 04:42 PM
#30
I tried it with starting fluid, i got a couple puffs of white smoke. I have a theory though.
It sounds like it isnt in time. My theory is that the e-shaft pulley is on wrong. Either the key-way is sheared off or just missing altogether. On the pulley there are two marks that have been painted on the front the same distance from each other as the timing notches. The paint marks are about 120* away from the real marks. I'll post pics of this on friday I hope. Which leads me to my next ? are the n/a and turbo e-shaft pulley's the same?
It sounds like it isnt in time. My theory is that the e-shaft pulley is on wrong. Either the key-way is sheared off or just missing altogether. On the pulley there are two marks that have been painted on the front the same distance from each other as the timing notches. The paint marks are about 120* away from the real marks. I'll post pics of this on friday I hope. Which leads me to my next ? are the n/a and turbo e-shaft pulley's the same?
You NA harness shouldn't be the problem. we've been doing S5 turbo swaps forever with not really any problem. Rotaryreserection can qoute me on that.
The N374 ECU are always problematic on our US or Canada car. The common problem with using a N374 is they don't send and impulse to the rear rotor injector. The only proven fix for the N374 ECU is to chip it. I personally have taken a N374 ECU and chipped it with a knightsport chip for my customer's cars when they decide they don't wanna go standalone or find a N370 for their swap.
The N351 ECU should at least send an impulse to both the front and rear rotor injectors. But in the case that you get it running with the N351 (NA) ecu don't hardly boost the car because the map is too lean and is designed for the NA engine, not the turbo engine. Meaning start looking for a N370 ECU.
So he used a standard light bulb for checking injector impulse and he said too bright? Like Hailers said "You're kidding right?"
The tool I use for checking injector impulse is made by snapon and it doesn't even plug into anything. it has a long thin rod that is set ontop of the injector on the car pluged in and it senses the injectors pulses and flashes and beeps to the pulses.
Have you tested the injectors? If you're wondering how to do that you can A: grab a drink and a snack and study the service manual and go through its fuel section, Or B: take a battery like a 9v and then take a leads to both prongs in the injector and one lead to positve on the battery and the other to the negative. When you connect the wire you will hear the injector click indicating the valve is opperative and presumably a good injector. The injector could be dirty though and that would flood sooner.
Its not easy to mix up the injector connectors on the harness. either secondary or primary connectors, you'd have to do some work to mix them up. You could in theory mix front and rear connectors up but that wouldn't do anything to keep it from starting or even firing.
So from what I've gained from your input you're getting spark across the board. One easy mistake is actually mixing the the trailing front and rear spark plug wires, although the car will run with them mixed up just rough though. but it can make a flooded car even harder to start.
So with an interesting main pulley it beggs the question of, what mark are you setting the CAS to? There's a good chance your timing isn't even near close. You can try the NA pulley and then set the cas to its marks.
Pics would help a little to imagining what you got going on.
01-13-09, 06:36 PM
#31
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There's really no way the main pulley could be on wrong and I kinda doubt the keyway sheared off cause that would take a lot of force not even put on the pulley in the first place. Never have I seen a sheared key way and a pulley with opposite timing marks. The timing marks are about 10mm's from each other, not opposite of each other. You can put your NA pulley on it if you want just make sure you torque it to the correct spec or you can over crush the copper washer behind the main bolt and then that develops a nasty oil slinging leak.
You NA harness shouldn't be the problem. we've been doing S5 turbo swaps forever with not really any problem. Rotaryreserection can qoute me on that.
The N374 ECU are always problematic on our US or Canada car. The common problem with using a N374 is they don't send and impulse to the rear rotor injector. The only proven fix for the N374 ECU is to chip it. I personally have taken a N374 ECU and chipped it with a knightsport chip for my customer's cars when they decide they don't wanna go standalone or find a N370 for their swap.
The N351 ECU should at least send an impulse to both the front and rear rotor injectors. But in the case that you get it running with the N351 (NA) ecu don't hardly boost the car because the map is too lean and is designed for the NA engine, not the turbo engine. Meaning start looking for a N370 ECU.
So he used a standard light bulb for checking injector impulse and he said too bright? Like Hailers said "You're kidding right?"
The tool I use for checking injector impulse is made by snapon and it doesn't even plug into anything. it has a long thin rod that is set ontop of the injector on the car pluged in and it senses the injectors pulses and flashes and beeps to the pulses.
Have you tested the injectors? If you're wondering how to do that you can A: grab a drink and a snack and study the service manual and go through its fuel section, Or B: take a battery like a 9v and then take a leads to both prongs in the injector and one lead to positve on the battery and the other to the negative. When you connect the wire you will hear the injector click indicating the valve is opperative and presumably a good injector. The injector could be dirty though and that would flood sooner.
Its not easy to mix up the injector connectors on the harness. either secondary or primary connectors, you'd have to do some work to mix them up. You could in theory mix front and rear connectors up but that wouldn't do anything to keep it from starting or even firing.
So from what I've gained from your input you're getting spark across the board. One easy mistake is actually mixing the the trailing front and rear spark plug wires, although the car will run with them mixed up just rough though. but it can make a flooded car even harder to start.
So with an interesting main pulley it beggs the question of, what mark are you setting the CAS to? There's a good chance your timing isn't even near close. You can try the NA pulley and then set the cas to its marks.
Pics would help a little to imagining what you got going on.
You NA harness shouldn't be the problem. we've been doing S5 turbo swaps forever with not really any problem. Rotaryreserection can qoute me on that.
The N374 ECU are always problematic on our US or Canada car. The common problem with using a N374 is they don't send and impulse to the rear rotor injector. The only proven fix for the N374 ECU is to chip it. I personally have taken a N374 ECU and chipped it with a knightsport chip for my customer's cars when they decide they don't wanna go standalone or find a N370 for their swap.
The N351 ECU should at least send an impulse to both the front and rear rotor injectors. But in the case that you get it running with the N351 (NA) ecu don't hardly boost the car because the map is too lean and is designed for the NA engine, not the turbo engine. Meaning start looking for a N370 ECU.
So he used a standard light bulb for checking injector impulse and he said too bright? Like Hailers said "You're kidding right?"
The tool I use for checking injector impulse is made by snapon and it doesn't even plug into anything. it has a long thin rod that is set ontop of the injector on the car pluged in and it senses the injectors pulses and flashes and beeps to the pulses.
Have you tested the injectors? If you're wondering how to do that you can A: grab a drink and a snack and study the service manual and go through its fuel section, Or B: take a battery like a 9v and then take a leads to both prongs in the injector and one lead to positve on the battery and the other to the negative. When you connect the wire you will hear the injector click indicating the valve is opperative and presumably a good injector. The injector could be dirty though and that would flood sooner.
Its not easy to mix up the injector connectors on the harness. either secondary or primary connectors, you'd have to do some work to mix them up. You could in theory mix front and rear connectors up but that wouldn't do anything to keep it from starting or even firing.
So from what I've gained from your input you're getting spark across the board. One easy mistake is actually mixing the the trailing front and rear spark plug wires, although the car will run with them mixed up just rough though. but it can make a flooded car even harder to start.
So with an interesting main pulley it beggs the question of, what mark are you setting the CAS to? There's a good chance your timing isn't even near close. You can try the NA pulley and then set the cas to its marks.
Pics would help a little to imagining what you got going on.
01-13-09, 08:52 PM
#32
The Ceaseless Discharge
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There's really no way the main pulley could be on wrong and I kinda doubt the keyway sheared off cause that would take a lot of force not even put on the pulley in the first place. Never have I seen a sheared key way and a pulley with opposite timing marks. The timing marks are about 10mm's from each other, not opposite of each other. You can put your NA pulley on it if you want just make sure you torque it to the correct spec or you can over crush the copper washer behind the main bolt and then that develops a nasty oil slinging leak.
You NA harness shouldn't be the problem. we've been doing S5 turbo swaps forever with not really any problem. Rotaryreserection can qoute me on that.
The N374 ECU are always problematic on our US or Canada car. The common problem with using a N374 is they don't send and impulse to the rear rotor injector. The only proven fix for the N374 ECU is to chip it. I personally have taken a N374 ECU and chipped it with a knightsport chip for my customer's cars when they decide they don't wanna go standalone or find a N370 for their swap.
The N351 ECU should at least send an impulse to both the front and rear rotor injectors. But in the case that you get it running with the N351 (NA) ecu don't hardly boost the car because the map is too lean and is designed for the NA engine, not the turbo engine. Meaning start looking for a N370 ECU.
So he used a standard light bulb for checking injector impulse and he said too bright? Like Hailers said "You're kidding right?"
The tool I use for checking injector impulse is made by snapon and it doesn't even plug into anything. it has a long thin rod that is set ontop of the injector on the car pluged in and it senses the injectors pulses and flashes and beeps to the pulses.
Have you tested the injectors? If you're wondering how to do that you can A: grab a drink and a snack and study the service manual and go through its fuel section, Or B: take a battery like a 9v and then take a leads to both prongs in the injector and one lead to positve on the battery and the other to the negative. When you connect the wire you will hear the injector click indicating the valve is opperative and presumably a good injector. The injector could be dirty though and that would flood sooner.
Its not easy to mix up the injector connectors on the harness. either secondary or primary connectors, you'd have to do some work to mix them up. You could in theory mix front and rear connectors up but that wouldn't do anything to keep it from starting or even firing.
So from what I've gained from your input you're getting spark across the board. One easy mistake is actually mixing the the trailing front and rear spark plug wires, although the car will run with them mixed up just rough though. but it can make a flooded car even harder to start.
So with an interesting main pulley it beggs the question of, what mark are you setting the CAS to? There's a good chance your timing isn't even near close. You can try the NA pulley and then set the cas to its marks.
Pics would help a little to imagining what you got going on.
You NA harness shouldn't be the problem. we've been doing S5 turbo swaps forever with not really any problem. Rotaryreserection can qoute me on that.
The N374 ECU are always problematic on our US or Canada car. The common problem with using a N374 is they don't send and impulse to the rear rotor injector. The only proven fix for the N374 ECU is to chip it. I personally have taken a N374 ECU and chipped it with a knightsport chip for my customer's cars when they decide they don't wanna go standalone or find a N370 for their swap.
The N351 ECU should at least send an impulse to both the front and rear rotor injectors. But in the case that you get it running with the N351 (NA) ecu don't hardly boost the car because the map is too lean and is designed for the NA engine, not the turbo engine. Meaning start looking for a N370 ECU.
So he used a standard light bulb for checking injector impulse and he said too bright? Like Hailers said "You're kidding right?"
The tool I use for checking injector impulse is made by snapon and it doesn't even plug into anything. it has a long thin rod that is set ontop of the injector on the car pluged in and it senses the injectors pulses and flashes and beeps to the pulses.
Have you tested the injectors? If you're wondering how to do that you can A: grab a drink and a snack and study the service manual and go through its fuel section, Or B: take a battery like a 9v and then take a leads to both prongs in the injector and one lead to positve on the battery and the other to the negative. When you connect the wire you will hear the injector click indicating the valve is opperative and presumably a good injector. The injector could be dirty though and that would flood sooner.
Its not easy to mix up the injector connectors on the harness. either secondary or primary connectors, you'd have to do some work to mix them up. You could in theory mix front and rear connectors up but that wouldn't do anything to keep it from starting or even firing.
So from what I've gained from your input you're getting spark across the board. One easy mistake is actually mixing the the trailing front and rear spark plug wires, although the car will run with them mixed up just rough though. but it can make a flooded car even harder to start.
So with an interesting main pulley it beggs the question of, what mark are you setting the CAS to? There's a good chance your timing isn't even near close. You can try the NA pulley and then set the cas to its marks.
Pics would help a little to imagining what you got going on.
Note: I am going to be swaping the pulley on friday just so I can make sure. Does anyone know the torque spec on the pulley?
Steve.
01-13-09, 11:01 PM
#34
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01-13-09, 11:18 PM
#35
Same thing with the front counterweight, same thing with the CAS timing thing (technical term...forgot what its really called)
Get a real compression test done.
01-14-09, 07:05 AM
#37
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If there was no keyway...what would force the pulley to spin around? Its not like its a press fit...
Same thing with the front counterweight, same thing with the CAS timing thing (technical term...forgot what its really called)
You are cleaning the plugs when you put them back in...and making sure the car is completely devoid of fuel? Have you tried putting some oil in the trailing plug holes and starting? Did you verify that your ignition wires are on correctly?
Get a real compression test done.
Same thing with the front counterweight, same thing with the CAS timing thing (technical term...forgot what its really called)
You are cleaning the plugs when you put them back in...and making sure the car is completely devoid of fuel? Have you tried putting some oil in the trailing plug holes and starting? Did you verify that your ignition wires are on correctly?
Get a real compression test done.
01-14-09, 12:46 PM
#38
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01-14-09, 01:15 PM
#39
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