alright. I swapped a t2 motor in with my stock na trans. i put it in. no problems. the wire harness only had one plug for the dash so i swapped to my n/a harness. I lengthened the tps wiring. the only mod ive done to the harness at all. I have spark, fuel, compression, and the timing is right. at first i didnt have any spark. so i checked everything, ended up changing my CAS. I know that it is in time i checked it like 20 times. normally spark+fuel+compression+accurate timing=running car (or at least in my experience.) My AFM came from Japan2LA. I'm assuming it works. Even if it didn't that really shouldn't cause it to not start. Just run very shitty. I'm about at my wits end. This turbo motor needs to run by friday. If not I have to put my N/A back in so I can go back to school. Any ideas? Any help is greatly appreciated. I really just cant think of why it won't fire. I'm stumped and so is my buddy who is as experienced as I am. Thanks

Steve.

 

if you say it is getting fuel, maybe it's just flooded from trying to start with the old CAS.

 

I've tried the un-flood method numerous times. I've also tried it with 3 different CAS. No difference between any of them. Last year on my old S4 when i put a new motor in it, it wouldn't start until i put a 200 amp jump box on it. After i did that ir fired right up. It apparently wasn't getting enought juice. I wonder if it's the same case here.......

 

Are injectors correct impedence? Afm might cause it not to start at all. Swap to your na one to check it....still will run. ****....thats crazy man, a common prob is the fuel send and return lines to be reversed on jspecs, but you have fuel. Hmmm. Ecu **** the bed? monster vacuum leak? Double checked all 3 tps wires are in their correct spot after legnthening them (assuming s4)

People should start chiming in soon, so hopefully you will be good by friday, man.

john ny

 

Is your engine flooding out? Do you get lots of gas (as a mist) coming out of the spark plug holes when you deflood? If so try taking the bottom plugs out and using a 19mm socket turn the engine backwards.. You may get a ton of fuel pouring out of those lower holes.. This really only applies when it is extremely flooded (lots of fuel sitting in the bottom of the housings).. It being super flooded could be it, but at this point I wouldn't be so sure thats the reason it wont start.

If it is flooding the fuel lines are hooked up right. If they are hooked up wrong he shouldn't have any fuel getting to the injectors.

The car does not need an AFM to start, although it will die immediately after it does start.. Do double check the TPS wires as I believe that IS required to start, although someone else might be able to correct me on that. In fact check the TPS out to FSM spec and make sure that isn't shot.

The ECU could have gone south.. Did it work fine when you pulled the old engine.. Or do you have another one to hook up, even if it's the N/A CPU?

Your injectors might be bad as well. I once had a TII swap that wouldn't start. Flooded out no matter what. Popped over a few times but not enough to run as it would immediately flood. I was running it off the N/A CPU, so I put the N/A injectors back in (which I knew were good). It started right up.

Also last thought. You said you have your timing set right.. Are you sure you have it set to the correct mark on the main pulley? There are two. I believe the one you set it to is the yellow one. Do a search, as this has been covered a few times. There is also a chance that your timing marks are completely off, and if I recall correctly there is a way to set timing without the marks on the front pulley. Again, do a search.

Good luck

 

The car is an S5. I've tried everything I can think of. I'm going to try un-flooding it and changing to my n/a afm. I've already tried my n/a ecu. I'm just going to keep trying to change out everything until I get some results. It's a good thing rotaries are stupid easy to disassemble and change parts on. lol. I tried lining the timing up on both marks. But the problem is it's not firing at all. I haven't even gotten a single pop or anything. All you can hear is the AFM pumping, and the compression of the motor. If any of you would like I can take a video to show you everything.

 

I swapped out the afm. No difference. The injectors are stock S5 550cc's. This is a "JSPEC" (notice quotation marks) motor. Is there no way that fuel could get in if the lines were backwards? I can smell fuel when i spin it over. Just not firing. As far as the ecu goes, I swapped it to my n/a ecu but thats when I kinda had the timing off a bit. I need to try that again. I have no clue where there would be a monster vacuum leak. Everything looks good.

 

All CAS are the same animal.

Get one of your spare CAS. Connect it to the harness. Put the key to ON only. Now go to the spare CAS and spin its bottom gear with your fingers.

If there is power to the coils and to the ECU, then you should be able to HEAR the sparkplugs click and the injectors click. It takes but a few moments to try that. So what happened?

You do the above to PROVE you have power to the ECU and the coils and do so without wearing the starter out.

 

I hooked all of my plugs up on each wire while they were out of the motor and they all spark. I can smell the fuel. I just need to pull the plugs out and back the motor up to see how much fuel is actually in there.
I do appreciate your input however. Thanks. Keep the ideas coming guys.

Steve.

 

Try what HAILERS said, it's an easy way to troubleshoot a few things. Can you hear the fuel pump relay clicking when your cranking? Are you sure it's pumping? If you do have a JDM engine, make sure the fuel lines are connected properly. They're backwards on the JDM engine from a USDM car and would definitely be the culprit.

 

where did you get your motor

my friend bought one from japan, couldnt figure out why it wouldnt start, tried everything.

turns out motor has no compression

had 30 day warranty, took 60 to ship

check ur compression

 

i dont have the exact compression numbers. However, it does at least sound like it has good compression. If you put your hand over the turbo outlet you can feel it pumping. I bought this motor locally from a dude that claimed it was JDM. It looked alright so I decided to buy it.

 

Buy one can of starter fluid AFTER you try what I suggested above. Spray for only two seconds into the afm/filter. Start car. Hear it try to start or what? Shoulda at least sputtered.

 

i took the leading plugs out, spun the motor backwards, guess what i found? GAS! A SHITLOAD!!! but only on L1. L2 is bone dry. Kinda confused. I thought I might have heard a single solitary pop, but thats about it. Any ideas for this problem?

 

did you wire your injectors correctly? the two longer wires goto the secondaries.

 

hmmmmmmm......... you might be onto something there. I'm honestly intrigued by this. I used my n/a harness so i'm honestly not 100% sure. I'll get back to you on that.

 

Ok,then you know that you have Fuel going to L1(Front Rotor I take it).I would check the injector on the rear rotor and see if that is hooked up.It seems strange that one primary would get fuel but the other one wouldn't.
another thing is to Get that Fuel out of the Housing(only one housing had excess fuel right?).so,with no Ignition hooked up,plugs out,roll the engine over and get the Fuel out.It should Push it out the exhaust port,and also the Pluig holes.After that get some Motor oil and put about a half ounce of oil in the Plug Holes.Then roll the engine over like 3 seconds,so that it mixes with the Fual and allows the excess fuel to get expelled.Plus this will make a nice seal and "UP " the compression.
If you have got the other Primary injector firing,then you can Use NEW plugs,and give it another round of trying to start it/
It sounds like Way too much fuel(extremely Flooded) but also,one injector is not working.
anyway,I hope that helps.

 

well, I'm about out of options on this thing. I swapped from the 550's to the 460's (came from my running S5 GTU) still no fuel on the rear rotor. I've used 2 different ecu's (N374 and N351) But even on one rotor wouldn't this fire up and just run like ****? I'm totally stumped. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks.

Steve.

 

so i switched the connectors around (i put the connector that was on the first primary on the second and vice versa) and now i have no fuel coming into the motor at all. I'm very confused. None of this seems to make any sense at all.

 

You swapped your primary injector plugs? So front to back, vice versa? And now you have no fuel?

You could try this..

Unbolt Primary and secondary fuel rail. Take the fuel rails out but leaving them hooked up to your fuel lines (with the injectors still in them). Zip tie the injectors to the fuel rail and prop it up so you can see if they spray fuel.. Turn key to ON. Plug in other CAS. Jump the Fuel pump test plug (you will hear fuel pumping in the lines). Spin CAS.

What should happen. As you spin the CAS (for a few turns) your primary injectors should fire. If they do not fire, or if your secondary injectors fire instead, you have it hooked up wrong.

I know this isn't exactly best practice, but you should SEE that your injectors are either firing, or not (or if one is firing, one isn't, etc). If they are not go look at the FSM for wiring diagrams and make sure you have the right plugs on the right injectors.

Report back with your findings.

Also did you try push starting it? Or starting fluid? It should still sputter with starting fluid, even with your injectors hooked up wrong, or with less than great compression.

 

I got the exact same problem. The mechanic who's helping me out in this Jspec Motor swap put a little bulb to test the power from ECU to injector (at the injector harness). He realize that the bulb is too bright for cranking and according to him, other FC gives dim light. Quite a unique technique I would say. By the way, the bulb is one of those we have in our stock gauges.

He suspects the NA engine harness is the culprit. Tested on both ECUs. N374 and N35X (89 NA - I forgot the number). The bulb is bright. Believe to be flooding the engine on crank. I actually doubt that the harness is the problem. The signal sends by the ECU and the wiring harness delivers it, no?

I really don't know what is the problem. Bad FPR? Bad ECU?

On the side note, I'm cranking the engine without the duty solenoid valve.

In addition, you NA engine harness needs to run the knock sensor. The yellow/blue wire going to the VDI solenoid valve needs to splice to the knock sensor.

 

are you using an s5 n/a wiring harness? if so that could be your problem right there. we tried going from N/a to t2 on my buddys car a little bit ago and had the same problem. come to find out the specs for the n/a and t2 wiring harrnesses are completely different only causing the lead injectors to work and not the others. problem sounds similar so try hooking it up with an s5 t2 harness. check all your grounds because while u may have spark u might not have quite enough to get the engine to turn over. if you have even 1 lose ground it could be where that little lack of spark is comming from

 

Your kidding. Right?

 

************************************************** *************


The bulb was too bright? Kidding again I hope.

 

Epic... Simply Epic...

Ground checking is good.. Except he stated he already checked for spark.. Since the other symptoms are not symptoms of bad grounding I think we can dismiss this.

No..

You don't need the knock sensor to start the car, especially if your using an N/A ECU.

This thread is full of fail..

To the OP: Try with starting fluid. See if it at least sputters. Do a compression test as well. Report back your findings.