longisland87rx7

Im just dropped an 1987 turbo II s5 jspec model engine into my my car which was in a 87 turbo II american spec

I also took off all emissions, added the blocker plates in their proper places.

I used my american electrical harness and pulled the jspec harness off the engine.

Now im having some injector issues..

I go to turn over the car, I see and hear gas coming out of my primary injectors the ones directly on the block..

Now i had read something about the ohms needed for the japanese injectors are different and i may have to add resistors to the injector electrical wires ??

I also heard that the emissions removal on an s4 is the same and an s5,

So i used this diagram found in the Factory service manual.. this is what its supposed to look like when all emissions are gone..

http://208.62.166.66:82/guest/Shop_M...%20removal.jpg

MY MAIN QUESTION TO YOU ALL IS

Is there any difference in resistance going to the injectors when using the american electical harness on the jspec engine ??

thanks to all that read this !!
-ryan

NZConvertible

S5 is 89-91. You need to clarify if it's really S5 or actually an S4. If your harness plugged staight onto the injectors then it's probably an S4, as the S5 injectors need different plugs.

Did you remove the injectors form the engine to see this? You can't see or hear fuel being injected with them installed...

No, that's wrong. Japanese engines had the same injectors as US engines made at the same time. Only the age of the engine matters, not where it was sold. The change occurs part way through the S4 model run. 86-87.5 engines had low-impedance injectors and a resistor pack; 87.5-91 engines have high-impedance injectors.

If your new engine is an 87 it could have either. Check by measuring the resistance across the injector pins with a multimeter. Low-imp will be ~3ohm; high-imp will be ~13ohm.

That's actually a heavily edited version of the FSM diagram done by me. It's actually slightly wrong because the S4 doesn't have a secondary injector air bleed. The rest is right though.

longisland87rx7

OK im back and this time with pictures to show what im going crazy over..

Like I said i removed all of my emissions applied blocker plates in the areas needed..and this is what im working with at this point on my jspec..



okayy I did some numbering on the fuel lines going and connecting to the fuel rails..

1 is coming from the fuel filter to the primary fuel rail.

2 is coming from the primary to the secondary fuel rail.

3 is coming from the secondary to the fuel return.

I put the car on accessory after accessing that there wasnt and fuel leaks I was about to turn if over.. and I can hear my fuel pump clicking like crazy and I observed what i labeled to be "1" in the picture to be shaking with each click from the fuel pump..

There also is no nipple on the pressure regulator going to the lower intake manifold either.. My old engine had the nipple on there.. so im guessing i just block it or should i just used my old fuel rail ??

So any help with all this would be appreciated..

I also eliminated this bacv valve..



but I bypassed a hose from the coolant neck to the upper intake manifold like so..



Is this the correct thing to be doing or should I block both off ?

NZConvertible

That is an S4 engine as I suspected. Something is a bit screwy with your fuel rails. The first thing to note is that on US models the PD is on the primary rail and the FPR (which has a vac nipple) is on the secondary rail, but on J-spec models these positions are reversed. You should have the FPR on the primary rail and the PD on the secondary rail. In either case the PD and FPR are supposed to be on the back end of the rails. It looks like your FPR has been moved to the front of the primary rail.

You engine will never run hooked up like the way you have it. The FPR must always be the last item in the fuel system, and it gets connected to the return line to the tank. You could make those rails work by changing the hoses around, but I suggest to avoid any confusion you just swap on your old fuel rails and hook it all up the way it was before. Make sure you connect up the FPR vac line; it's very important.

Why did you block of the BAC valve?

longisland87rx7

Thanks for responding back!!

Okay so my best bet is too use my old american fuel rails and keep those lines the same way ?

And the reason for getting rid of the bac valve was because I dont have a plug to operate it.

HAILERS

IF you mean the PLUG on the harness for the bac is missing, but the wires are still there,then consider that a fuel injector plug can be made to fit on the bac. So you could cut an old fuel injector plug with wires off the old harness and splice the two wires to the BAC wires on the present harness and walla, you have a bac plug now and you can connect the bac up along with the two water hoses.

I don't like the way you routed the bac water hoses to bypass the bac, It's going to interfere with the throttle linkage.

longisland87rx7

Well i have two extra clips that are close to that area on my electrical harness.. Im not sure if any of these are dedicated to the BAC valve.

longisland87rx7

Anyways after removing my jspec fuel rails and injectors and trying to start the car again.. I decided I was spending way too much time on my car and i just dropped it off at the local rotary specialist.. my hands bear the scars of fighting with that thing and taking off the UIM like 234234 times.. So hopefully i'll get it back soon and I'll let you all know what the problem was.. hopefully it was something simple.. thanks again every one
-ryan