RTY PWR

iTrader: (4)

Ok, i just did a t2 swap and got everything in ready to go. i went to start it up while holding the flap in on the air flow meter. and it idled around 2k give or take. sounded like one rotor, then got both spinning. as soon as the flap was let out, it shot up to 4500 rpm and sounded very raspy, really gross, then it cut back off. can someone please help. im running out of options.

HAILERS

Why do you feel you need to shove the vane in the afm at all?

Sounds a bit like a large air leak or parts put on wrong. Can't help with that.

RTY PWR

iTrader: (4)

the only way it will turn over is if that flap is pushed in.

HAILERS

That could be for several reasons. Try something a bit different. Jumper the fuel pump check connector that is yellow in color and has two sockets located near the boost sensor area. That act plus the key to ON causes the fuel pump to run. Pushing the afm vane also causes the fuel pump to run continuously. Both acts do the very same thing.

So with the check connector jumpered see if the engine will start. If it still won't start without pushing the vane in the afm aft, then that indicates a very large air leak. Maybe in the turbo inlet duct. Look on it's aft side and make sure the two holes that are meant for the blowoff valve and the check valve for the purge system are either plugged or have the right items in them to close of those two holes.

A crack in the turbo inlet duct at the turbo can cause large air leaks. You have to remvove the duct and look at the area under the clamp to see if the duct has a crack or not.

I think that pushing the vane aft in the afm, in conjunction with a large air leak, causes more fuel to be delivered (vane aft equals more fuel to match the air coming in).

The BAC valve has a hose that connects to the intake ducting. See if that hose is on or not. That hose is on the bottom side of the BAC.

RTY PWR

iTrader: (4)

alright. ill try those. thanks