Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

Ok I already searched but I didn't find the answer I wanted. I just want to know which one is better on a street/race setup, when I was searching people said that the racing beat is more streetable than the mazdatrix because the mazdatrix doesn't have bushings and makes more noise. I'll be going either today or tommorow to both places to pick up things for my fc so I want to know what place do I get my endlinks at? My suspension setup is going to be:

Tein SS Coilovers 7/9 Springs Rates
RB F+R Sway Bars
F+R Strut Tower Bars
JIC Camber Plates
RB DTSS Eliminators
AWR Rear Individual Camber adjusters or RB adjustment bar (not yet purchased)
Adjustable Endlinks (not yet purchased)
All Bushings (not yet purchased)
Under arm stiffener (not yet purchased)


Also when i was installing my rb sway bars I had more angle on one side than the other on the endlinks and the bar was almost hitting my koyo, does it have to face a differen't way or something? Thanks

-Andrew

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well I can't really contribute much because I'm not a track racer or anything but I have the racing beat end links cause my stock ones broke and they work great

RETed

Add this as a data point...

Racing Beat = polyurethane inserts?
Mazdatrix = spherical ends?
If this is so, then read on...

We set up our 20B FC drift / track car with the Racing Beat ends first.
Driver had gotten accustomed to the "feel" of the Racing Beat endlicks and was driving pretty consistently.
The next track session we had swapped to the Mazdatrix spherical ends.
The driver could NOT control the car.
It would abrupt oversteer, and it was uncontrollable.
We didn't know what we did until we really thought about the mods - only thing we did was change the endlinks...

It seems the "softer" RB units with the PU inserts allowed for a much smoother transition.
The spherical ends on the Mazdatrix units made for an abrupt transition, and this can either work for or against your driving style.
Spherical ends, in general, make for a more responsive chassis...so keep that in mind.


-Ted

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like I'll go with the rb endlinks thanks for the help guys anyone have some input on my angle problem?

-Andrew

Madrx7racer

quick Question about RB Adj. Sway links: where can I read on how to adjust them???? I have them in my rear bin because I don't want to install them until I know HOW to take full advantage of the adjustability....

ilike2eatricers

I've posted a scan of the instructions for the mazdatrix adjustable endlinks. Probably the same procedure for setting zero preload.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

um you should just beable to screw the end links to make them shorter or longer

Madrx7racer

I know that....I'm not retarded....i want to know whether tightning them will be better for handling or whether loosening them will be better....you know?

Madrx7racer

searching.....................


EDIT: nothing.......do you have a link by any chance? I'll try searching again........I am going to assume it was in the second gen section.

second EDIT: WTF AM I DOING????? I have the RB adj. sway links!!!!! talk about a stupid brain fart!

gxlbiscuit

i have the mazdatrix adjustables. i have yet to fully tune the suspension but the rear end breaks loose REALLY REALLY easy.. to the point where the car doesnt feel like my grippy rx7 anymore. maybe this is some of the problem.. maybe the delrin rear sus is the other.. makes an awesome drift car if you like *** out but im actually hoping i dont have to avoid a wreck .......

ilike2eatricers

Well the mazdatrix ones use a bunch of beveled spacers unlike the RB ones. I thought you were asking about directions on how to adjust them properly, which was in the scan I posted. Installing them is easy setting the preload correctly is fairly annoying.

Madrx7racer

that's exactly what I was asking but I have the RB set...not Mazdatrix.

bingoboy

I have RB bars in the front and back with MT endlinks in only the front. Have not changed the rear links. At the moment i do not feel the rear needs to be any stiffer. The front bar with the MT endlinks does feel incredibly crisp though, ever so much more than with the bar and the original endlinks. So far I love them.

As for "zeroing" the endlinks, you would need to adjust them so there is ZERO pressure on them while the car is at rest with all the suspension settled AND the driver in the drivers seat. This is a major pain in the *** so I usually just set them to the same length as the OEM endlinks and forget about it.

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

Hey I took pics of mine, and i'll scan both install sheets for you tommorow and show you the pics of the links, I gotta pick up my e6k right now (HELL YEAH!) and its my best friends b-day so we're going to party and whatnot.

-Andrew

RETed

This is one concept I could never grasp...

How can you pre-load them???

If you pre-load them one way, then turning the other way would make them really loose???

Unless I get a decent answer, the adjustability is only to zero them out.

The bar is meant to pivot when both wheels compress - trying to tighten BOTH of the endlinks down, doesn't do jack - it just pivots the bar!


-Ted

dbgeek

After pricing a set of endlinks, I found that McMaster Carr has a wonderful selection of rod ends. One male and one female 10mm rod end (load rated) and a jam nut.

Broken endlink:




Replaced with McMaster Carr adjustable endlinks:

gxlbiscuit

mmm mctasty. wish i had got those

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

Finally Pics:



Thats a crapload of stuff!


All assembled, do they look right?


EGR and ACV block off plates- 6 bucks a piece!! no need to pay 10 bucks a piece online!


*sigh* had to dish out some cash though


My baby is home


-Andrew

RoadRaceJosh

This I like. I can see you have to take one end loose to adjust the length, but it looks easier to do than adjusting the length of those Racing Beat end links. Since all I'm ever going to do is make sure there is no preload on the sway bar the heim joints will be fine.

dbgeek

PMed you this info as well. I used the same setup front and rear. 10mm thrust-rated ball joint rod ends.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Female: 8411K33
Male: 8411K13

I had 10mm jam nuts already, and I used some 10mm washers to space the rod ends away from the control arm mounting points, and stock hardware to mount everything together.

All threads are right hand. Just screw them together and tighten the jamb nut. I went just a little shorter than stock length, even though the new ones will extend to stock length. To adjust, simply unbolt one end and adjust. Like you said, I only adjusted to null preload and don't plan to touch it again.

Madrx7racer

I haven't installed mine because I have no idea what to do with them....

RETed

To "zero" them out is a pain in the ***.
As bingoboy has already mentioned, you need to have the car on level ground.
You install the endlinks on each bar, and adjust them so there is NO tension on the bar itself.
Racers do this with the driver in the car to get a more realistic example of weight loads on the chassis.
To make it easier, you really need a "pit" to get under the car...


-Ted

Madrx7racer

damn..........so no tension with driver inside..............how the hell am I gonna do this? I'll let you know when I do it i guess.

Busted-7

Find a buddy who works at an oil change place and use their pit.

Brismo7

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the great idea. You just saved me a bundle

Ted, not sure if this would work or how accurate it would be, but what if one were to put his car on jackstands, then use a hydrolic jack to lift the tires into place? Maybe measure wheel gap before taking the car off the ground