Is T2 Rad Enough
#1
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Is T2 Rad Enough
i have just put a rew engine into my t2. it has been rebuilt and ported by a pro. it has a single turbo and im running the apexi power fc ecu.
now the rad is the stock t2 rad. my thought is that the rew is nothing more than a 1308cc twin rotor engine just like the t2. now maybe it wont cope on a race track or being driven hard but it should be ok on idle.
so this is what i've done. i have two 500 cfm fans and an electric water pump. no thermostat. fans on constant but gets hotter and hotter till i turn off.i have let it go to 105c
spoke to someone and they said to block the hole behind the thermostat. its about 20mm. did it but no change.
swapped the rad out of my other t2 that i know works fine. no change.
put the origanal pump back in as well as the electric one. still no better.
with the elec pump on direct from the batt i undone the hose on the heater and the hose on the very top of the inlet manifold and there was a flow/ water pressure. so i think i am getting curculation. the temp is fairly even along the block with the ally housings being slightly cooler than the iron side plates. the rad is even temp all over but is same as engine temp.
before you all just say need a bigger rad, is this a definite thing or a guess.. i don't want to blow any more money at this ------- piece of ---- and as i said surely it should be ok for idle speed anyway.
is there something that im missing?
now the rad is the stock t2 rad. my thought is that the rew is nothing more than a 1308cc twin rotor engine just like the t2. now maybe it wont cope on a race track or being driven hard but it should be ok on idle.
so this is what i've done. i have two 500 cfm fans and an electric water pump. no thermostat. fans on constant but gets hotter and hotter till i turn off.i have let it go to 105c
spoke to someone and they said to block the hole behind the thermostat. its about 20mm. did it but no change.
swapped the rad out of my other t2 that i know works fine. no change.
put the origanal pump back in as well as the electric one. still no better.
with the elec pump on direct from the batt i undone the hose on the heater and the hose on the very top of the inlet manifold and there was a flow/ water pressure. so i think i am getting curculation. the temp is fairly even along the block with the ally housings being slightly cooler than the iron side plates. the rad is even temp all over but is same as engine temp.
before you all just say need a bigger rad, is this a definite thing or a guess.. i don't want to blow any more money at this ------- piece of ---- and as i said surely it should be ok for idle speed anyway.
is there something that im missing?
#3
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iTrader: (7)
a) put thermostat back in (make sure its working) - without termostat u might be getting coolant flowing thru system too fast - not having time to cool off in radiator
b) how is your ducting around radiator, shrouds, under radiator?
c) do you have FMIC blocking out air supply?
b) how is your ducting around radiator, shrouds, under radiator?
c) do you have FMIC blocking out air supply?
#5
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Originally Posted by allforjesus06
I thought that 1000cfm isnt anywhere enough to cool the engine at idle. Does it run cooler when you're at high speeds, such as 70mph?
Basically.. the fans are there for when stoped and at very low speeds... When driving normally air gets pushed threw the rad.. the fan basically just gets in the way then lol.
#6
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Originally Posted by OWNED
Basically.. the fans are there for when stoped and at very low speeds... When driving normally air gets pushed threw the rad.. the fan basically just gets in the way then lol.
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#8
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Yeah, try better fans to start with. Most people are running E-fans the push nearly triple the air that your two 500s are. THe black magic fan pushes something like 2800cfm