T2 motor, N/A rotors
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T2 motor, N/A rotors
So my motors been pulled, engine bay has been gutted and sprayed, this weekend its going back together.
When I split my motor my rear housing and rotor were pretty bad. I have a new housing but I was wondering if anyone has experiance running S4 N/A rotors in their S4 TII? I have 2 pefect N/A rotors. I understand this will raise compression so crazy boost will require better parts/tuning. I'm looking for a solid motor with 8-12 psi.
Here's what's goin on so far.
All parts have been cleaned/inspected
Streetport
All new gaskets,seals,springs,bearings
Emissions/ac removed
P/S intact
Fuel is handled by a rewired walboro which will soon shoot through 720 sec. and a SAFC or Rtek
All new hoses and a koyo rad/e fan
I'm really close, just worried how these rotors are act.
Thanks ahead for the replies.
When I split my motor my rear housing and rotor were pretty bad. I have a new housing but I was wondering if anyone has experiance running S4 N/A rotors in their S4 TII? I have 2 pefect N/A rotors. I understand this will raise compression so crazy boost will require better parts/tuning. I'm looking for a solid motor with 8-12 psi.
Here's what's goin on so far.
All parts have been cleaned/inspected
Streetport
All new gaskets,seals,springs,bearings
Emissions/ac removed
P/S intact
Fuel is handled by a rewired walboro which will soon shoot through 720 sec. and a SAFC or Rtek
All new hoses and a koyo rad/e fan
I'm really close, just worried how these rotors are act.
Thanks ahead for the replies.
#2
The Shogun of Harlem
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Not a very good idea, the n/a rotors are too high of a compression for what you want to run. I think Aaron Cake did 5psi on his N/A-T but im pretty sure you will need a standalone to deal with the higher compression. Just get another set of TII rotors from the 2nd gen parts section.
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A standalone will be required, but if you're running the stock turbo @ 10psi I don't see a need for anymore then the 720 secondaries you're listing.
The S4 N/A rotors are only marginally higher compression then S5 TII rotors really....
But it should work fine. Keep the timing conservative (with your AHEM - standalone) and you shouldn't have any problems.
The S4 N/A rotors are only marginally higher compression then S5 TII rotors really....
But it should work fine. Keep the timing conservative (with your AHEM - standalone) and you shouldn't have any problems.
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Chatchie, I am currently running a setup close to what you are proposing. I have a streetported S4 TII block with S4 NA rotors (9.4:1) and use an Rtek 2.0 to control the engine. You should be totally fine if you are only trying to boost 8-12 psi. I was able to boost 12 psi on this set up with an Rtek 1.7 with out tuning my SAFC and with the stock intercooler. I'm able to hit 1 bar since I've been working with the Rtek 2.0.
The higher compression ratio helps reduce flooding, adds a little extra grunt in the lower rpm range , increases fuel efficiency, are easier to find and cheaper to buy.
IMO and from my experience, the 8.5:1 rotors are only needed if you are planning on boost levels higher than 14 psi. The stock engine, turbo and intercooler aren't reliable above this boost level and our stock boost sensor can't read above 15.7 psi anyway so unless you are planning to go standalone and full turbo upgrade before your next rebuild, the NA rotors are your best bet.
The higher compression ratio helps reduce flooding, adds a little extra grunt in the lower rpm range , increases fuel efficiency, are easier to find and cheaper to buy.
IMO and from my experience, the 8.5:1 rotors are only needed if you are planning on boost levels higher than 14 psi. The stock engine, turbo and intercooler aren't reliable above this boost level and our stock boost sensor can't read above 15.7 psi anyway so unless you are planning to go standalone and full turbo upgrade before your next rebuild, the NA rotors are your best bet.
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Im not lookin to run 11 seconds. I have a full, dynamated interior, this is a street car.
TurboVert your mods are pretty close to mine as well, with the exception of the 4 720's, does it run/idle smooth?
Also you run an Rtek ecu and a SAFC on top of that?
I think I might go with the N/A rotors.
Thanks again guys
TurboVert your mods are pretty close to mine as well, with the exception of the 4 720's, does it run/idle smooth?
Also you run an Rtek ecu and a SAFC on top of that?
I think I might go with the N/A rotors.
Thanks again guys
#12
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Do it NOW!!! I think the most you can run with your timing control would be about 8 psi max. I'd polish the face of those rotors too. you'll have really good throttle response, and a much Torquier motor.
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anything is do-able with the correct tuning, etc. Sonic-rat, (I think), and Im assuming many others have done this, or simmilir setups. 9.4:1 is not ungodly compression, so its more than manageable with the correct setup...
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It's not something I would recommend to someone without experience. Tuning is a bit more difficult and critical.
That said, even the NA ECU will easily handle 5 PSI.
That said, even the NA ECU will easily handle 5 PSI.
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Chatchie, I am currently running a setup close to what you are proposing. I have a streetported S4 TII block with S4 NA rotors (9.4:1) and use an Rtek 2.0 to control the engine. You should be totally fine if you are only trying to boost 8-12 psi. I was able to boost 12 psi on this set up with an Rtek 1.7 with out tuning my SAFC and with the stock intercooler. I'm able to hit 1 bar since I've been working with the Rtek 2.0.
The higher compression ratio helps reduce flooding, adds a little extra grunt in the lower rpm range , increases fuel efficiency, are easier to find and cheaper to buy.
IMO and from my experience, the 8.5:1 rotors are only needed if you are planning on boost levels higher than 14 psi. The stock engine, turbo and intercooler aren't reliable above this boost level and our stock boost sensor can't read above 15.7 psi anyway so unless you are planning to go standalone and full turbo upgrade before your next rebuild, the NA rotors are your best bet.
The higher compression ratio helps reduce flooding, adds a little extra grunt in the lower rpm range , increases fuel efficiency, are easier to find and cheaper to buy.
IMO and from my experience, the 8.5:1 rotors are only needed if you are planning on boost levels higher than 14 psi. The stock engine, turbo and intercooler aren't reliable above this boost level and our stock boost sensor can't read above 15.7 psi anyway so unless you are planning to go standalone and full turbo upgrade before your next rebuild, the NA rotors are your best bet.
Chris-