88 vert

hey ive bought new tps for my 88 vert and my sister 89 vert and ive adjusted them to 1ohm by the ohm meter on both i ad to take the spring off of the adjustment screw to get it to 1ohm am i doing this wrong? i unplug it hook up a ohm meter according to the mazda manuals and turn the screw after the car has been started and at normal running temp both of the afm are bad i have tested them and both tested bad but i didnt think that would have anything to do with it since its not hooked up or running at the time of adjustment?

88 vert

ttt

niner

I had a little trouble following your exact question.
I dont think you should have to take the spring off to adjust it though.
If the AFMs are bad then it shoudnt really affect the way that you adjust the TPS, but still may cause drivablility problems.

88 vert

first i start the car get it to normal operating temp unhook the tps on the 88 go from terminal A to B and test for ohms with the screw turned all the way in with the spring i get 1.8ohms or in that area so i take the spring off and adjust it to 1 ohm by turning it in more i also have the test light and that showed adjusted when its turned all the way in with the spring on but still runs like sh&#

niner

hmm... ive never done it that way, but i should work fine
i use the test connector by the manifold pressure sensor and 2 LEDs

HAILERS

Try this on your 88 only: Connect everthing up, all plugs. Heat the car up fully, not just warm to the touch. Put your meter to a good ground. Put the pos lead in the back of the green wire with a red stripe. Just shove it in the back of the Tps plug. Turn the screw till you read one (1) volt. Did the car run better????? The above is for a car that does not have a suspected bad tps. You just bought one so it should not be suspect. Write back if it does not work. If it does work better, then I suggest taking the plug off and doing the resistance check again to see what the reading is.EDIT: Are you interested in selling me your old tps???? Ten bucks and I'll pay postage.
EDIT: You have a idle stop screw near the tps. Is it touching the tiny screw? Or is it some distance from the screw???? Throttle stop screw is near the tps and has a 8mm jamnut on top of it. I start to wonder if your throttle is all the way closed. Probably is since you havn't said anything about a raging idle.

88 vert

ok thank ill try that but im just wondering why the spring has to be removed to get it to 1ohm ill try the 1volt ad see how it runs im really not interested in selling the old one we have 2 88 verts and 1 89 vert and 89 GTU i doubt the TPS was even bad i had no syptoms of it being bad on the 88 just the RX7 shop in N.C. said he couldnt get it adjusted and suggested it being bad so i just replaced it and now i tested the AFM and it is bad so i thinking that was my surging problem and running lean problem to begin with on the 88, thanks ill reply back after i put it to 1volt and let you know how it runs.

HAILERS

You shouln't have to take the spring off. Thats why I asked about the throttle stop screw and its relationship to the moving lever on the throttle. Something is out of whack here linkage wise.
It sounds a little like the car is not fully heated up and the thermowax is not letting the fast idle cam come off the roller. That might explain having to take the spring off to get the setting. One way to tell if the above is or is not happening is to take a look at the idle stop screw. I'm trying to find a picture of it so we don't get confused about what I'm talking about.EDIT: This site:http://www.rhichome.bnl.gov/People/s...rottlebody.jpg shows the throttle body. See the blue hose? To the left of the bottom blue hose you see a spring wraped around a rod coming out of the throttle body. Just to the left of that is a screw(the heads got some pooky on it so it a little hard to define it as a screw)and this screw is mounted on a boss and its bottom should be touching that lever that is attached to the spring wrapped rod that was described above. Question, is the lever touching the bottom of the screw????? Or is there a large gap of say 1/8 inch or more?

88 vert

ok i think i got you know so the rod you are talking about has to be completely off of the screw mine was not its still tight up against the screw that would explain why ok so that has to be off the screw in order to adjust it that explains it i will try this again properly this time i was just going off the temp guage and that wouldnt be right especially in the 89 cause its a 3position guage either cold warm or hot so that rod has to be off that screw to be adjusted properly i think i got it now with alot of help from hailer thanks alot

88 vert

just one more question does the test light plug near the coils have to be grounded out i heard one guy say yeah and the mazda manual doesnt mention it and ive never heard anyone else saying it had to be grounded to adjust the TPS just to adjust the air fuel mixture

HAILERS

Oh I goofed up a post again. No, if the throttle linkage is touching the bottom of the throttle stop screw, thats good. SHOULD mean that the car is warmed up enough for setting the tps. Look at the bottom of that screw in the morning when the car is cold. There will be a gap b/t the screw bottom and the linkage, meaning the fast idle cam and thermowax is doing its job when cold. For the life of me I have no idea why you have to remove the spring. Thats a no, no. Can you take a picture of your tps??? And post it???
EDIT: No you don't ground the initial set coupler.

88 vert

well the car is cold and the arm is tight against the screw right now so what does that mean and why is the spring in there anyway does it keep the butterflies in the TB from opening up to far? i know it wont right but it was the only way i could get it adjusted. thanks for all your help hailer
andi could take a pic but it might take a while to get it i dont have a digital camera and i would have to take a pic and scan it