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T-2 Block -> NA. turbo feed block?

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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 12:46 PM
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Cool T-2 Block -> NA. turbo feed block?

For those who are using a 4 port block (with or without NA rotating assy) for use in non turbo application, how did you block the oil port on the front iron? I used a bolt with thread sealant and it is not working so hot. Apparently 100+psi of oil pressure is a lot.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:39 PM
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What about a Banjo bolt with a copper crush washer?

I've have never been in your situation but I can see a standard bolt with just thread sealer wouldn't work, that's a lot of pressure and oil don't care bout no stinkin threads.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
What about a Banjo bolt with a copper crush washer?

I've have never been in your situation but I can see a standard bolt with just thread sealer wouldn't work, that's a lot of pressure and oil don't care bout no stinkin threads.
I don't have the stock bolt also not sure if without the banjo fitting part if the threads would be too deep and block the oil port.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
I don't have the stock bolt also not sure if without the banjo fitting part if the threads would be too deep and block the oil port.
Good point, I didn't think of that.

You "could" get the correct banjo bolt and modifying by cutting it shorter. I have done this with bolts before, and it is not easy. If it isn't absolutely true on the end where you cut the damn thing won't thread.

You could also get some scrap metal of appropriate thickness, cut it and drill a hole through the middle to make a spacer. Then just add the washers and cap that sucka off.

Either way, you need a banjo bolt.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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Yeah I could only find m12x1.5 in about 2" length bolts for hardware store by me so I cut it to .5"

its pouring out at high velocity but you do so it bleed up and run down the side of the block. I am gonna try and just put a copper washer on it and re seal it and see.

Otherwise I may just get the banjo bolt hardware and if I have to just weld the banjo outlet port shut and install it as normal. Kind of ghetto but I dunno if height will be an issue, don't want it to hit the vac canisters on the distributor, that will limit my advance/retard of timing abilities which is less than desirable.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
Yeah I could only find m12x1.5 in about 2" length bolts for hardware store by me so I cut it to .5"

its pouring out at high velocity but you do so it bleed up and run down the side of the block. I am gonna try and just put a copper washer on it and re seal it and see.

Otherwise I may just get the banjo bolt hardware and if I have to just weld the banjo outlet port shut and install it as normal. Kind of ghetto but I dunno if height will be an issue, don't want it to hit the vac canisters on the distributor, that will limit my advance/retard of timing abilities which is less than desirable.
If that bolt doesn't have the flange at the base of the hex head, then a washer isnt going to do squat. Also, if it is a standard flanged bolt, if it has little grooves on the bottom of the flange to make it self locking, I don't see that working either.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
If that bolt doesn't have the flange at the base of the hex head, then a washer isnt going to do squat. Also, if it is a standard flanged bolt, if it has little grooves on the bottom of the flange to make it self locking, I don't see that working either.
hrmmm, good point. Had I known this was an issue while I had the engine apart I would have just retapped it for pipe thread and called it a day...
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
hrmmm, good point. Had I known this was an issue while I had the engine apart I would have just retapped it for pipe thread and called it a day...
You could use a short oil drain plug which will have the flat bottom flange like a banjo bolt and work with a crush washer, but I just do not know if it would be easy to find the right size.

Do you know the factory banjo bolt specs? If so, I can help you search for some alternative.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:13 PM
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m12x1.5 that's about it. I found the part numbers from mazda, same threads as the lug nuts/wheel studs and engine driver side bracket mount to block.

N318-14-270B = pipe... but its 65 dollars new from the dealer (40 with racer discount but still)

9936-91-200 = banjo bolt, 9 dollars

N236-13-483 = copper washers, 2 dollars.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:28 PM
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Boom, slap a copper crush washer on this.

Flange Drain Bolt 164-199 Scooter Part
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:29 PM
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Your sir, are good...
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:31 PM
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Thank you, Thank you.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:39 PM
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Dealership wants 5 dollars for the copper washer! but w/e it is the right part and the dealer is right down the street from my job. Racer discount is 1.25 for it, and retails for 2.08. Granted I am making them ship me one washer from cali haha. Otherwise ordering it from mazdaspeed would be about 12 dollars shipping and take a week.

I will post the results, next week.
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
Dealership wants 5 dollars for the copper washer! but w/e it is the right part and the dealer is right down the street from my job. Racer discount is 1.25 for it, and retails for 2.08. Granted I am making them ship me one washer from cali haha. Otherwise ordering it from mazdaspeed would be about 12 dollars shipping and take a week.

I will post the results, next week.
I'd just get a damn oil plug washer from the same site if you can...the dealer is the devil (I worked for one!).
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 02:54 PM
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actually I think I got a bunch of misc copper washers laying around. Gonna try that first.

well let me challenge you this then.

I need a male to male hose adapter, capable of 200-250 degree, upwards of 16psi that has 3/4" on one end and 5/8ths" the other.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 07:28 AM
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Mcmaster part numbers
93635A520
97725A250
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by PvillKnight7
Mcmaster part numbers
93635A520
97725A250
93635A520 is m12.x1.75 which will not work.

97725A250 is the correct copper washer but I'm not spending 9 dollars for a package of them, plus shipping.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
actually I think I got a bunch of misc copper washers laying around. Gonna try that first.

well let me challenge you this then.

I need a male to male hose adapter, capable of 200-250 degree, upwards of 16psi that has 3/4" on one end and 5/8ths" the other.
I am not that good. What the hell is it for? That might help in the search.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
93635A520 is m12.x1.75 which will not work.

97725A250 is the correct copper washer but I'm not spending 9 dollars for a package of them, plus shipping.
Your welcome. Good luck buying hardware in quantities of 1 to save money.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by PvillKnight7
Your welcome. Good luck buying hardware in quantities of 1 to save money.
ACE is the place! (not always though)

advance auto/autozone/oreilys have misc packages of assorted copper crush washers too. I forget the part# but they also have the correct size for the banjo fittings for the oil cooler lines.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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So is the issue fixed?
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 08:54 AM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by jjwalker
So is the issue fixed?
tada!

OEM copper washer and that plug, works fine.


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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
For those who are using a 4 port block (with or without NA rotating assy) for use in non turbo application, how did you block the oil port on the front iron? I used a bolt with thread sealant and it is not working so hot. Apparently 100+psi of oil pressure is a lot.
I come from 1st-gen land, the oil feed is the same as a lug bolt, so I used an FB lug bolt, spaced with a nut, and copper washers between each.

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You can see it sticking up there... it's awesome because it's chrome and it is re-used parts.

I used to have a hell of a time finding 12x1.5 nuts locally until I realized that lug nuts are 12x1.5 and non-acorn lug nuts are cheap, so I use a lot of backwards lug nuts on everything like my motor mounts and stuff.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by peejay
I come from 1st-gen land, the oil feed is the same as a lug bolt, so I used an FB lug bolt, spaced with a nut, and copper washers between each.



You can see it sticking up there... it's awesome because it's chrome and it is re-used parts.

I used to have a hell of a time finding 12x1.5 nuts locally until I realized that lug nuts are 12x1.5 and non-acorn lug nuts are cheap, so I use a lot of backwards lug nuts on everything like my motor mounts and stuff.
haha I have the same thing, 2 lug nuts that hold the driver side mount/bracket to the engine.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
tada!

OEM copper washer and that plug, works fine.


You are welcome sir, I am glad I could help!
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