T-2 Block -> NA. turbo feed block?
For those who are using a 4 port block (with or without NA rotating assy) for use in non turbo application, how did you block the oil port on the front iron? I used a bolt with thread sealant and it is not working so hot. Apparently 100+psi of oil pressure is a lot.
What about a Banjo bolt with a copper crush washer?
I've have never been in your situation but I can see a standard bolt with just thread sealer wouldn't work, that's a lot of pressure and oil don't care bout no stinkin threads.
I've have never been in your situation but I can see a standard bolt with just thread sealer wouldn't work, that's a lot of pressure and oil don't care bout no stinkin threads.
I don't have the stock bolt also not sure if without the banjo fitting part if the threads would be too deep and block the oil port.
You "could" get the correct banjo bolt and modifying by cutting it shorter. I have done this with bolts before, and it is not easy. If it isn't absolutely true on the end where you cut the damn thing won't thread.
You could also get some scrap metal of appropriate thickness, cut it and drill a hole through the middle to make a spacer. Then just add the washers and cap that sucka off.
Either way, you need a banjo bolt.
Yeah I could only find m12x1.5 in about 2" length bolts for hardware store by me so I cut it to .5"
its pouring out at high velocity but you do so it bleed up and run down the side of the block. I am gonna try and just put a copper washer on it and re seal it and see.
Otherwise I may just get the banjo bolt hardware and if I have to just weld the banjo outlet port shut and install it as normal. Kind of ghetto but I dunno if height will be an issue, don't want it to hit the vac canisters on the distributor, that will limit my advance/retard of timing abilities which is less than desirable.
its pouring out at high velocity but you do so it bleed up and run down the side of the block. I am gonna try and just put a copper washer on it and re seal it and see.
Otherwise I may just get the banjo bolt hardware and if I have to just weld the banjo outlet port shut and install it as normal. Kind of ghetto but I dunno if height will be an issue, don't want it to hit the vac canisters on the distributor, that will limit my advance/retard of timing abilities which is less than desirable.
Yeah I could only find m12x1.5 in about 2" length bolts for hardware store by me so I cut it to .5"
its pouring out at high velocity but you do so it bleed up and run down the side of the block. I am gonna try and just put a copper washer on it and re seal it and see.
Otherwise I may just get the banjo bolt hardware and if I have to just weld the banjo outlet port shut and install it as normal. Kind of ghetto but I dunno if height will be an issue, don't want it to hit the vac canisters on the distributor, that will limit my advance/retard of timing abilities which is less than desirable.
its pouring out at high velocity but you do so it bleed up and run down the side of the block. I am gonna try and just put a copper washer on it and re seal it and see.
Otherwise I may just get the banjo bolt hardware and if I have to just weld the banjo outlet port shut and install it as normal. Kind of ghetto but I dunno if height will be an issue, don't want it to hit the vac canisters on the distributor, that will limit my advance/retard of timing abilities which is less than desirable.
hrmmm, good point. Had I known this was an issue while I had the engine apart I would have just retapped it for pipe thread and called it a day...
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Do you know the factory banjo bolt specs? If so, I can help you search for some alternative.
m12x1.5 that's about it. I found the part numbers from mazda, same threads as the lug nuts/wheel studs and engine driver side bracket mount to block.
N318-14-270B = pipe... but its 65 dollars new from the dealer (40 with racer discount but still)
9936-91-200 = banjo bolt, 9 dollars
N236-13-483 = copper washers, 2 dollars.
N318-14-270B = pipe... but its 65 dollars new from the dealer (40 with racer discount but still)
9936-91-200 = banjo bolt, 9 dollars
N236-13-483 = copper washers, 2 dollars.
Dealership wants 5 dollars for the copper washer! but w/e it is the right part and the dealer is right down the street from my job. Racer discount is 1.25 for it, and retails for 2.08. Granted I am making them ship me one washer from cali haha. Otherwise ordering it from mazdaspeed would be about 12 dollars shipping and take a week.
I will post the results, next week.
I will post the results, next week.
Dealership wants 5 dollars for the copper washer! but w/e it is the right part and the dealer is right down the street from my job. Racer discount is 1.25 for it, and retails for 2.08. Granted I am making them ship me one washer from cali haha. Otherwise ordering it from mazdaspeed would be about 12 dollars shipping and take a week.
I will post the results, next week.
I will post the results, next week.
actually I think I got a bunch of misc copper washers laying around. Gonna try that first.
well let me challenge you this then.
I need a male to male hose adapter, capable of 200-250 degree, upwards of 16psi that has 3/4" on one end and 5/8ths" the other.
well let me challenge you this then.
I need a male to male hose adapter, capable of 200-250 degree, upwards of 16psi that has 3/4" on one end and 5/8ths" the other.
I am not that good. What the hell is it for? That might help in the search.
advance auto/autozone/oreilys have misc packages of assorted copper crush washers too. I forget the part# but they also have the correct size for the banjo fittings for the oil cooler lines.

You can see it sticking up there... it's awesome because it's chrome and it is re-used parts.
I used to have a hell of a time finding 12x1.5 nuts locally until I realized that lug nuts are 12x1.5 and non-acorn lug nuts are cheap, so I use a lot of backwards lug nuts on everything like my motor mounts and stuff.
I come from 1st-gen land, the oil feed is the same as a lug bolt, so I used an FB lug bolt, spaced with a nut, and copper washers between each.

You can see it sticking up there... it's awesome because it's chrome and it is re-used parts.
I used to have a hell of a time finding 12x1.5 nuts locally until I realized that lug nuts are 12x1.5 and non-acorn lug nuts are cheap, so I use a lot of backwards lug nuts on everything like my motor mounts and stuff.

You can see it sticking up there... it's awesome because it's chrome and it is re-used parts.
I used to have a hell of a time finding 12x1.5 nuts locally until I realized that lug nuts are 12x1.5 and non-acorn lug nuts are cheap, so I use a lot of backwards lug nuts on everything like my motor mounts and stuff.
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