First off I searched no definte answers.

Is it OK to use synthetic during breakin or should I go with mineral based oil during breakin.

Let me remind you I have no OMP I'm running premix.

I only have about 5 miles on the reman motor and I put Mobil 1 synthetic in it.
Should I change it out for Castrol mineral during breakin?

 

Good ol' cheap oil is what you want for the break in, synthic is to "slippery". I can't really go into detail about this though, someone back me up.

 

I agree, run regular Castrol GTX 20W50 for break in, and then switch to a synth afterwards.

 

Many automakers use synth as factory fill in certain vehicles.
It aint gonna make a difference especially that you are using premix.

 

Synthetic it a total waste of $$$ for breakin, You only have it in the motor for 500 miles

 

Bingo. Spend the money on something that is more usefull.

 

Quote:
Bingo. Spend the money on something that is more usefull

I already have the synthetic in there.
I was asking if I should change it out or just leave it?

*Will it damage my engine is what I mean, during breakin, even though I am premixing (the synthetic is not being injected into the rotor housings).

 

I used synthetic during break-in + premix.

 

damn ...
mazda never tell you guys to use synthic oil for rotary engine
you all wont listen

 

I heard your not supposed to use synthetic? someone let me know the deal......

 

The use of synthetic in a rotary has long been talked about. Those against using it argue that; 1: synthetic has an increase ash content. 2: no point in using it becuase you should be changing your oil every 1500-2000 miles. 3: I belive that also that they say synthetic might "clog up" the stock OMP.

Those for it argue that as long as you buy high quality synthetic the ash content is low enough. Also if you premix, then the synthetic is no being injected into the combustion chamber and therefore is safe for use.

If you have a stock car, there is no rational reason to buy synthetic becuase on the cost difference and the rate of which you should change your oil. If you have a modded car, make your own decision, but I would only use synthetic in a car without an OMP.

 

Shouldnt hurt your motor at all (even premixing) but may take more miles for the seals to break in right. Just to be on the safe side you might think some extra miles on it before really pushing it?

 

Maybe you should read a little and do some research before posting things like that.

As posted hundreds of times, There is nothing wrong with using a good quality synth in a rotary motor other than the high cost (as the oil change intervals are still the same).

However using cheap crappy synths, like Castrol, or Valvoline or Havoline, is just asking for problems.

Mazda only said not to use synths because they couldn't say use only brand X, Brand Y and Brand Z, but don't use brand C brand D, and brand F synthetics.

If you (however) continue to believe that using a synth will cause your motor to die, you can remain in the dark ages.

 

*Again I say I'm premixing.

*I already have synthetic in my car (only 5 miles on motor so far) Mobil 1 (best synthetic in my opinion).

*I only care about if synthetic is OK for breakin.
I will use synthetic after breakin regardless.

What do you think Icemark, change it out or leave it?

 

OK since you think Castrol is one of the CRAPPY synths, what do you recommend then. I have been using Castol..

 

Your fine with it they way it is.

 

Royal Purple or Redline as your minimum, and you can only go up from there.

 

Yes, the Castrol Synth is a very poor synth, with a high level of ash, (what is left after the burn) and a 0 increase in performance. Don't feel bad The Valvoline Synths are even worse. Now, that is for the Synth. The Castrol conventional GTX oils are some of the best for any amount of money. But see that again goes back to why Mazda didn't recommend Synths- how are they going to say you should use Castrol GTX, but not Castrol Synth and Synth blends.

The best Synths (like Redline, Royal Purple- which RB recommends, Neo, Mobil1, Amsoil) all have a low ash content. Lower than most regular oils. Formal engine tests have also shown about a 2 HP increase using these synths as well.

Then there is the MOP idea... that synths don't burn, so you shouldn't use them in a engine with an operating MOP. Bull crap, Every synth made burns at under 525F with most burning around 400F, just like a conventional oil and way way below the actual combustion temps in a properly operating rotary engine.

Is that extra performance in an oil worth the cost of using a Synth??? Not for me, but for those who wish to have that extra percentage of performace, and can afford them; by all means they should use them.

 

*Again I say I'm premixing.

*I already have synthetic in my car (only 5 miles on motor so far) Mobil 1 (best synthetic in my opinion).

*I only care about if synthetic is OK for breakin.
I will use synthetic after breakin regardless.

What do you think Icemark, change it out or leave it?

 

Synthetic During Break-in.

Go out side, and drain your engine.

You should never use synthetic oil during a break in period in any engine, rotary or piston.

The break in period is when the seals are meant to bed-in to the housings. You actually want wear at this point. (not too much wear though!) Using synthetic oils during the breakin of any engine will make it harder for the seals (or piston rings if you have a normal engine) to seat. Regular oil wil allow a certain amount of wear - and will help your engine in the long run. Infact, many automobile companies that put synthetic oil in their cars from the factory will specify that you go double the recommended mileage before your first oil change. That's to ensure that you do get this slight wear, and everything seats properly.

Break in the engine with regular oil - and change the filter every 500 miles. Once it is properly broken in - then make the switch to a good synthetic oil.

 

Castrol GTX 20-50 is what I'd recommend and I'd stick with it even after breakin. Synthetic doesn't have the lubricating properties and burn off as petrolium based oil does.

DO NOT use synthetic dsuring breakin on a rotary engine. Course GM ships off new C5's with mobil 1 in em. You need some friction to wear parts in to each other though so you get a good seal.

 

Yeah, what is up with that?

I hear the new EVOs are also factory shipped with synthetics. So, are those cars all broken in from the factory???

 

I doubt that they are broken in at the factory - that seems to be reserved for Porsche, AMG and the like - but I'll bet that their first scheduled oil change isn't for a loooooong time.

We are also comparing two different eras of technology and materiels. The type of engineering that goes into cars that are now shipped with synthetic is a far cry from a 15 year old rotary.

Do the break in with conventional mineral oil - and then switch to synthetic. It is the best way to keep your engine happy for a long time.

 

I have heard that the Synth oil won't break up like the regular dino would. Any info in this?

I used to use Castrol on my FC all the time, but at oil intervals, I was always missing a quart of oil. I decided to use Valvoline VR1, and the burning oil was gone for good!

I will be taring apart that engine soon, I will post pics of the internals

I have been using Mobile1 on the miata since I got it, but spending $25 on oil alone is outrageous in my current financial position

 

But you are supposed to burn oil KNONFS. If you aren't burning oil, or not enough to notice then you have a problem somewhere. Especially if you aren't premixing. How heavy of oil are you using now? I know I had an oil leak and had to put some 10w30 in and it smoked quite a bit from using just 20w50.