synthetic blend
#1
braaaaaaaaaaaaaa pshhhhhh
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: kansas
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synthetic blend
ive heard that you are not supposed to run synthetic in rotaries.
ive been running Quaker state higher milage with slick 50 for ever and it works just fine should i switch.
i think that it should be fine because its a sythetic blend not fully but i dont know
ive been running Quaker state higher milage with slick 50 for ever and it works just fine should i switch.
i think that it should be fine because its a sythetic blend not fully but i dont know
#2
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
is this a question or what?
in my humble opinion synthetics in the engine are a waste but will not damage a rotary. why pay $40+ for a $20 oil change every 3k miles? even if it does prolong the engines life you could have bought a full rebuild with the added costs of the synthetics. some people just need to mental support to think that the synthetic oil will just protect them better, in fact if the engine is going to give up it will with synthetic in it or not.
in my humble opinion synthetics in the engine are a waste but will not damage a rotary. why pay $40+ for a $20 oil change every 3k miles? even if it does prolong the engines life you could have bought a full rebuild with the added costs of the synthetics. some people just need to mental support to think that the synthetic oil will just protect them better, in fact if the engine is going to give up it will with synthetic in it or not.
#5
Opinions are like........
Don't bother switching. Since you get the di$count, stick with it and the 3k/3mo changes.
Also, there is no need for Slick 50, but I have no cons against it.
Since the introduction of the SM/GF4 API/SAE specs, almost every oil is a synthetic blend now anyway.
Add in the multiple OEM requirements, and todays oils are miles above in performance when compared to what was available just 5 years ago.
Also, many oil producers 'market' highly refined mineral oils as synthetics. So, even if it has the word 'synthetic' is on the label, depending on brand, it could still be all mineral oil(just very well refined/formulated---hydrotreated, hydrocracked, hydrogenated, hydroisomerized higher group 2+,3, 3+ base oils......).
If co$t is an issue, keep an eye on rebates and blowouts(clearance racks and wholesale jobbers). I've purchased cases of oil for next to nothing(cost of stamps and envelopes).
Valvoline currently is running a free rebate trial on their website that anyone can print.
With the cost of petroleum products, anytime you can 'take' a seller or producer for a discount, rebate, or clearance sale, please do so.
Gotta run and grab some more Maxlife. I'm running out of 'friend' addresses for the rebates. But, I'll have a garage shelf of free oil!
Also, there is no need for Slick 50, but I have no cons against it.
Since the introduction of the SM/GF4 API/SAE specs, almost every oil is a synthetic blend now anyway.
Add in the multiple OEM requirements, and todays oils are miles above in performance when compared to what was available just 5 years ago.
Also, many oil producers 'market' highly refined mineral oils as synthetics. So, even if it has the word 'synthetic' is on the label, depending on brand, it could still be all mineral oil(just very well refined/formulated---hydrotreated, hydrocracked, hydrogenated, hydroisomerized higher group 2+,3, 3+ base oils......).
If co$t is an issue, keep an eye on rebates and blowouts(clearance racks and wholesale jobbers). I've purchased cases of oil for next to nothing(cost of stamps and envelopes).
Valvoline currently is running a free rebate trial on their website that anyone can print.
With the cost of petroleum products, anytime you can 'take' a seller or producer for a discount, rebate, or clearance sale, please do so.
Gotta run and grab some more Maxlife. I'm running out of 'friend' addresses for the rebates. But, I'll have a garage shelf of free oil!
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