Symptoms of a bad U-joint?
08-08-05, 02:38 PM
#5
meh
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$248.20 from mazdatrix, and that's a driveshaft with a replaceable u-joint. The stock u-joints are non-replaceable, you have to replace the whole driveshaft.
http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
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08-08-05, 03:19 PM
#8
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Clunk in lower gears = front U joint, clunk in higher geras rear U joint. It may well vibrate before you hear the clunking. Be cautious, before assuming only the U joint also rule out motor/tranny mounts as well as diff mounts.
Last edited by Jodoolin; 08-08-05 at 03:29 PM.
08-08-05, 03:24 PM
#9
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1. the OEM U-joints are staked in and slightly difficult to replace, but not impossible. Search for the threads I had running a while. I replaced mine for $20 a piece (give or take a couple bucks)
2. The easiest way to tell if a U-joint is going bad/is bad is to remove the driveshaft (30 min tops) and rotate the yokes in a 360. If it doesn't spin easily, then the U-joint is seized and needs to be replaced. If you remove the driveshaft, mark the rear-diff and the driveshaft so you can re-install the driveshaft exactly the same way it was removed to avoid problems later.
2. The easiest way to tell if a U-joint is going bad/is bad is to remove the driveshaft (30 min tops) and rotate the yokes in a 360. If it doesn't spin easily, then the U-joint is seized and needs to be replaced. If you remove the driveshaft, mark the rear-diff and the driveshaft so you can re-install the driveshaft exactly the same way it was removed to avoid problems later.
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joel(PA)
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