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swaping boost gauge for volt gauge wrightup

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Old 07-10-06, 12:06 PM
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swaping boost gauge for volt gauge wrightup

is there a wright up to swap out the boost gauge for the volt gauge?
my boost gauge is dead anyways might as well do somthing useful with the space
thanks
Old 07-10-06, 12:08 PM
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Why not fix the boost gauge instead of replacing it with a voltmeter? That would save the need for a "wright" up.

I would think a boost meter is more important than a voltmeter. I'm assuming Mazda put it there for a reason....
Old 07-10-06, 12:12 PM
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dude i have a standalone = no boost sensor or any wiring inbetween.
and furthermore the stock boost sensor in nothing but eye candy. it doesnt tell you anything when your running hidh boost
Old 07-10-06, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by turbine
dude i have a standalone = no boost sensor or any wiring inbetween.
and furthermore the stock boost sensor in nothing but eye candy. it doesnt tell you anything when your running hidh boost
Guess I should look at signatures more often.

I don't find my voltmeter particually useful. But, thats me.
Old 07-10-06, 12:23 PM
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would you say the voltmeter is acurate to exact batt voltage?
i just want a V meter because my Efan sucks the life out of my charging system
Old 07-10-06, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by turbine
would you say the voltmeter is acurate to exact batt voltage?
i just want a V meter because my Efan sucks the life out of my charging system
I've never tested mine, but it seems to be semi-accurate. My voltage reads low (sometimes barely above 12), but I never have battery drainage or any of the symptoms of a poorly performing alternator. But, when I put a drain on it, the reaction seems about right.
Old 07-11-06, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ePH C freak
you S4 or S5? if i were you, i'd swap out that gauge cluster for an N/A one (which has a volt meter) and buy an after market boost gauge. it's a direct bolt on if you don't interchange from S4 to S5, or S5 to S4... if you're S5, i have a white-face N/A cluster for sale

i have an 87 TII, and i threw in a S5 N/A cluster so that i can have a volt meter... if you're going to swap gauges from the S4 to the S5, you'll be needing to change the wires around that go behind the cluster...

for more info on swapping out clusters, do a search on S4 to S5 Gauge Cluster... but if have a S5 TII, you can directly swap a S5 N/A tach in place...
i ended up buying a s4 na cluster. so its plug and play? cool. i will have to swtch out the speedometers
Old 07-12-06, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
I've never tested mine, but it seems to be semi-accurate. My voltage reads low (sometimes barely above 12), but I never have battery drainage or any of the symptoms of a poorly performing alternator. But, when I put a drain on it, the reaction seems about right.
Yeah, I tested mine. I had the voltmeter showing around 11 when I put the car in reverse. The alternator was showing around 13.9v output. Is this a sign of a screwed up gauge, bad battery, or something else?
Old 07-12-06, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
Why not fix the boost gauge instead of replacing it with a voltmeter? That would save the need for a "wright" up.

I would think a boost meter is more important than a voltmeter. I'm assuming Mazda put it there for a reason....

they did put it in there your right.

the point is to hold you off till you can afford a real boost gauge that actually has numbers to read so you actually know your boost rather then some vauge well I'm 3/4 up the gauge.
Old 07-12-06, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rxspeed87
they did put it in there your right.

the point is to hold you off till you can afford a real boost gauge that actually has numbers to read so you actually know your boost rather then some vauge well I'm 3/4 up the gauge.
Yeah. I wasn't paying attention and didn't read his signature. It was pretty obvious after I did.
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