btbaus

iTrader: (3)

aite. s5 na to s5 jdm turbo.

i believe its jdm cause there was no AWS on the engine. ive swapped the fuel lines so the line from the fuel filter is going to the hard line that is closest to the rear of the engine. i replaced the fuel pump with a walbro so maybe i wired it wrong. i dont think i did though. i made sure the polarity was correct. ima make sure im getting fuel out of the return line with a buddy later.

everything is hooked up the way it should be. ive triple checked everything. but i could of overlooked something. any tips?

ima add some oil to the leading spark plug holes in the morning and see if that will do the trick.

i noticed though, that when the engine cranks, the throttle cable assembly at the rear of the engine doesnt move. is it supposed to not move or is it supposed to move a bit?????

thanks guys

20Bforme

why would the throttle cable move while cranking the engine?

2 things move the throttle cable... the gas pedal and the cruise control (if installed)

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

alright so i jumped the two prong yellow connector near the pressure sensor once before, thinking that fuel pressures has been built. i crank the engine and nothing. i jumped it again this morning and i ran to the fuel filler and listened for the fuel pump and i didnt hear anything.

question is, if pressure has been already been built previously, and i prime the system again, i should hear the fuel pump run again right???

i wired in the walbro exactly how the stock fuel pump was wired in. should i of added some wiring that wasant in there before at the fuel pump or anywhere in the fuel system? maybe i wired it in wrong. ima check when when i get some time to, probably sunday.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

i dont know why the throttle cable would move while cranking the engine. that was my question. thanks

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

You have your fuel lines backwards, switch them, the fuel line from the fuel filter goes to the hardline furthest from the firewall (3rd one I believe). Also refer to the FSM on how to prime your system. Also make sure your battery is fully charged.

Here is how my jdm s5 tii swap is. The green lines are the fuel lines.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

niiiiiiiiice thanks man! ima switch em and see what happens. will running the fuel lines backwards make your fuel pump sound like its gonna blow up?? cause thats what mine sounded like

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

alright so i switched the fuel lines, primed the system and she fired right up. the idle was below 1K at first. then i blipped the throttle and the idle went up to 1.5k. everything seems normal. ohh oil pressure was at 60 lbs/ sq in. @ 1.5k idle. is that normal or high? check engine light was on but i think that was because the oxygen sensor was disconnected. could a disconnected oxygen sensor cause the check engine light to come on? also i was running n350 ecu. ima try the 370 next time. i have a needle size hole in the water hose that comes out the back of the BAC valve.

the turbine housing didnt have the downpipe on. so there was smoke in the engine bay. when i shut the engine off, it looked as if smoke was coming out from the compressor housing, but i think its just exhaust smoke. would a compressor smoke if blown??


anybody have the exhaust pipe that connects the downpipe to the main cat? if i cant find a replacement on the forum i think ill just drive it to a shop around here and have em fab one up.


thanks for all your help

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

bump

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

bump bump

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I'd think about driving a car with no exhaust from the Turbo.
You would be shooting FLAMES into the Firewall...Not very Safe man..really.

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

yeah it's normal that it smokes for a while after a swap. I agree it's not smart to drive it or run it very much without a downpipe. Change your plugs after it stops smoking and probably change the oil not too far down the road. Definately swap the ecu, a new O2 sensor and setting the timing are good ideas as well.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

thanks guys but i never said i was gonna drive it like dat. duhhh!

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

so....... egi fuse keeps blowin. i searched a bit, maybe theres a short somewhere causing the fuse to blow? ima search some more... anybody have experience wit dis?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Does the fuse blow w/key to on or while the engine is running?

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

it blows after the engine has been running for a while. say 10 minutes or so.

the first time i started it up, the car died and i thought it was because of fuel . i tired starting it today and it wouldn't start. i checked the fuse and it was blow. replaced the fuse and the engine started. after about 10 minutes it blew again...WTF

satch

iTrader: (1)

Check the FAQ and look at the S5 alternator diagram and see if you have the two wire plug going to the proper terminals as opposed to it being reversed by accident.

EDIT: White/Black wire goes on top.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

thanks will do that asap. gotta get to work!!!!

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

so everytime ive started it up its been wit da n350 ecu. i really wanted to see if the n370 ecu i have is good so i bough a new fuse and cranked her. no start. i checked the fuse and its blown. i dunno if it blew when the key was in the on position or if it blew when i cranked it... what should i check if it blew when the key was in the on posistion??

siikduke

iTrader: (5)

... You do know that the N350 ECU is a NA ECU right?

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

the two wire plug cant be connected incorrectly without breaking the plug and the plug i have is not broken

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

...yeah... why do u think i wanted to try the n370 ecu so bad?

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

sure of it now. the fuse is blowin when the key is turned to on.. ima look through the wiring diragrams

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

i checked the wiring for the turbo duty solenoid and the know sensor and there were no shorts. i was using two different gauges of wire for the knock sensor, so i removed the knock sensor entirely and the fuse still blows. i didnt mess with any other wiring so why would the fuse be blowin?

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

so i saw that the wiring harness on the passenger side was pretty close to the exhaust so i moved it closer to the strut tower. now it doesnt blow fuses. lets see how long this lasts.... WTF

satch

iTrader: (1)

Actually. the EGI fuse powers many items besides the alternator it powers anything that gets voltage from the Main relay which involves most of all the solenoids, sensors, injectors,coils and so on. Start with disconnecting the plug to the alternator and begin your check for a short to ground. Somewhere there is a wire that is chaffed and coming in contact with metal. To find a short to ground you pull the fuse which is blowing and disconnect the component on the other end of the wire that could possibly be causing the damage and take a multimeter and place the red meter lead to the positive battery terminal and the black meter lead to the wire in question and see if there is voltage present. If there is then that is the problematic wire. The EGI fuse powers the White/Blue wire and White/Red wire. Both of these wires run to the Main relay which passes the voltage from these respective wires to Black/Yellow and Black/White. B/Y powers the coils, and injectors. The B/W wire powers the ECU, solenoids and sensors. A number of posters have had a wiring problem with the ACV due to the heat created in that area so that might be place to pay close attention to. The B/Y wire is the easiest wire of the two to deal with so maybe you should start with that one.