Suspension Upgrade - Anything else require attention?
Suspension Upgrade - Anything else require attention?
Hi everyone,
I just purchased a set of Fortune 500 Coilovers for my 91 GXL. At the moment my car is at the shop getting energy bushings installed along with the RB Toe Eliminator. This is my first time really upgrading suspension on a car. Ideally I want to run 17x9+22 Enkei RPF1s all around. Will I need to change out anything else in the car to accommodate that wheel set up? Rear Suspension Camber Adjustment from RB or Mazdatrix? PBM Trailing Arm Camber Links?
I just purchased a set of Fortune 500 Coilovers for my 91 GXL. At the moment my car is at the shop getting energy bushings installed along with the RB Toe Eliminator. This is my first time really upgrading suspension on a car. Ideally I want to run 17x9+22 Enkei RPF1s all around. Will I need to change out anything else in the car to accommodate that wheel set up? Rear Suspension Camber Adjustment from RB or Mazdatrix? PBM Trailing Arm Camber Links?
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
I would recommend camber / caster plates for the front of they are not included. Also check tie rod ends and sway bar links and mount bushings (front and rear). You should not have figment issues with coil overs as long as you don’t run a big tire on that 17x9 +22 wheel or lower it too much.
For the rear, you will undoubtedly have negative camber no matter if it’s stock or lowered suspension. I do alignments at work and commonly see -1* to -2* factory preferred spec on many vehicles in the rear. I have KYB AGX with Eibach springs and have about -1.8* camber rear. I have had it like this for three years and 6000 miles later show no real signs of bad tire wear. I run a little bit of positive toe to compensate. Since I’m sure you will want to be at least one inch lower than my Eibachs, you should get adjustable camber links from the rear, everyone sells them so take your pick.
For the rear, you will undoubtedly have negative camber no matter if it’s stock or lowered suspension. I do alignments at work and commonly see -1* to -2* factory preferred spec on many vehicles in the rear. I have KYB AGX with Eibach springs and have about -1.8* camber rear. I have had it like this for three years and 6000 miles later show no real signs of bad tire wear. I run a little bit of positive toe to compensate. Since I’m sure you will want to be at least one inch lower than my Eibachs, you should get adjustable camber links from the rear, everyone sells them so take your pick.
Last edited by NCross; Jul 3, 2018 at 11:17 AM.
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