Super annoying buzzer goes off, how do I kill it?
#1
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Super annoying buzzer goes off, how do I kill it?
When the ignition is on, or the car is started (1991 nonturbo rx7), everything is fine for about 30 seconds, and then a super loud and annoying buzzer goes off and will not shut up till the key is removed. Idiot cluster shows no open doors (it isnt the "ding ding ding" sound that open doors make anyway), or any warning messages. All fuses under the steering wheel are good, what could be setting it off?? Thanks!
#2
Rabbit hole specialist
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A loud obnoxious buzzer goes off under a few circumstances.
1) You have reached redline.
2) You are low on coolant.
3) You are low on oil.
The warning light could be out for the last two. Are these lights known to be working? Do those lights come on with the key turned to ON, but the engine not running?
It is possible there could be a problem with the buzzer circuit itself, but it is there for a reason. Try to see if it really is telling you something before you kill the buzzer.
1) You have reached redline.
2) You are low on coolant.
3) You are low on oil.
The warning light could be out for the last two. Are these lights known to be working? Do those lights come on with the key turned to ON, but the engine not running?
It is possible there could be a problem with the buzzer circuit itself, but it is there for a reason. Try to see if it really is telling you something before you kill the buzzer.
#3
Manual Rack
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Id assume low coolant buzzer first if oil level is good.
Put key in on position, wait for buzzer, then locate the low coolant sensor on top in the middle of the rad. Disconnect sensor from wire and ground it. If it goes off then you have air pockets in your rad making the sensor go off. Bleed system.
Put key in on position, wait for buzzer, then locate the low coolant sensor on top in the middle of the rad. Disconnect sensor from wire and ground it. If it goes off then you have air pockets in your rad making the sensor go off. Bleed system.
#5
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A loud obnoxious buzzer goes off under a few circumstances.
1) You have reached redline.
2) You are low on coolant.
3) You are low on oil.
The warning light could be out for the last two. Are these lights known to be working? Do those lights come on with the key turned to ON, but the engine not running?
It is possible there could be a problem with the buzzer circuit itself, but it is there for a reason. Try to see if it really is telling you something before you kill the buzzer.
1) You have reached redline.
2) You are low on coolant.
3) You are low on oil.
The warning light could be out for the last two. Are these lights known to be working? Do those lights come on with the key turned to ON, but the engine not running?
It is possible there could be a problem with the buzzer circuit itself, but it is there for a reason. Try to see if it really is telling you something before you kill the buzzer.
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Here's some info (hope the link works). I ended up taking mine out, but I recommend you make sure it's not things people suggested you check. I checked all but nothing worked so ended up removing it.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=jdonnell
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=jdonnell
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#8
Rabbit hole specialist
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Id assume low coolant buzzer first if oil level is good.
Put key in on position, wait for buzzer, then locate the low coolant sensor on top in the middle of the rad. Disconnect sensor from wire and ground it. If it goes off then you have air pockets in your rad making the sensor go off. Bleed system.
Put key in on position, wait for buzzer, then locate the low coolant sensor on top in the middle of the rad. Disconnect sensor from wire and ground it. If it goes off then you have air pockets in your rad making the sensor go off. Bleed system.
The OP should definitely do both of these checks to make sure these circuits work as intended. The wiring could be faulty in one of these circuits.
#11
Rabbit hole specialist
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The oil level sensor has to be grounded to get it to go off. The coolant level sensor can just be unplugged. This is for S5s, not sure if it's different for S4s; I've never worked on them.
The OP should definitely do both of these checks to make sure these circuits work as intended. The wiring could be faulty in one of these circuits.
The OP should definitely do both of these checks to make sure these circuits work as intended. The wiring could be faulty in one of these circuits.
#12
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Id assume low coolant buzzer first if oil level is good.
Put key in on position, wait for buzzer, then locate the low coolant sensor on top in the middle of the rad. Disconnect sensor from wire and ground it. If it goes off then you have air pockets in your rad making the sensor go off. Bleed system.
Put key in on position, wait for buzzer, then locate the low coolant sensor on top in the middle of the rad. Disconnect sensor from wire and ground it. If it goes off then you have air pockets in your rad making the sensor go off. Bleed system.
Here's some info (hope the link works). I ended up taking mine out, but I recommend you make sure it's not things people suggested you check. I checked all but nothing worked so ended up removing it.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=jdonnell
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=jdonnell
#13
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Lol, putting my money on air in system, much more common. Use the coolant air bleed near the rad and/or thermostat. Let it warm up with the cap off until thermostat opens. Make sure heater is on hot (been there done that) so that air from there goes away too.
Fix the problem. Use unplugging/grounding sensors for checking only. Don't leave sensors bypassed/disabled.
The buzzer is behind the gauges. Don't do it.
Fix the problem. Use unplugging/grounding sensors for checking only. Don't leave sensors bypassed/disabled.
The buzzer is behind the gauges. Don't do it.
#14
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oops, jdonnel already answered my question. thanks again guys.
#15
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Lol, putting my money on air in system, much more common. Use the coolant air bleed near the rad and/or thermostat. Let it warm up with the cap off until thermostat opens. Make sure heater is on hot (been there done that) so that air from there goes away too.
Fix the problem. Use unplugging/grounding sensors for checking only. Don't leave sensors bypassed/disabled.
The buzzer is behind the gauges. Don't do it.
Fix the problem. Use unplugging/grounding sensors for checking only. Don't leave sensors bypassed/disabled.
The buzzer is behind the gauges. Don't do it.
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