AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

any use this kit? i took some rough measurements and i looks like it MIGHT BARLEY fit in the rear cabin.

im gonna also get a water proof circuit breaker. anyone know if that box fits in the rear bin? got pics? thanx!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i prefer the braille battery relocation kit more.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

im going with this one:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10260/10002/-1/752213|10367

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

yea i was looking for that one before on jegs website but couldnt find it for some reason. i saw it at a catalog today. might get that one too.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

all you really need is some 2gauge wiring, the battery terminals and 2 other connectors. i made my last one but am gonna buy a kit for my vert' so i can have the box and **** with it.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

yea good point. ur gonna leave the rear bin in? some people take it out or take out the top door.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

huh?

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

how are u gonna bolt it down?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

in my coupe its just chilling in the bin section right now, i need to figure something out. for the vert im gonna get that kit and keep it in the box in the trunk. maybe ill just get a box for both cars.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ Just put it in the bin, it's not going to move anywhere really. I had mine loose in the bin at VIR.

As for the kit, it looks good. You can also make your own. The thing I've noticed about some kits is that they don't use the best quality wire... they use the factory style wire which has really thick strands and is very stiff, making it tough to route in tight spots and tough to cut to length for a clean install. I'm not sure about the Summit kit.

I just used car audio grade wire from an amp kit. What I did was cut the stock negative battery wire and ground it to a clean spot on the fenderwall (used a wire brush attachment to clean the paint off). Then I ran a separate battery ground from the relocated battery to the frame. These two new grounds improved interior battery voltage (as measured at the ECU by my Power FC) and battery charging. I also cut the stock wires from the battery to the fuse box and replaced them as they had noticeable corrosion.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I'm gonna do a writeup soon on my battery relocation(re-do). It's just something to tickle your minds, as well as for you to comment on my(and my friend's) work.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

cool let us know when its up.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Like most commercial relocation kits, the Summit kit does not include a circuit breaker. This is something you will have to add.


In a collision, the battery will quite easily exit the storage bin and tear through the back of you passenger. A sturdy box is required and the battery must be tied to the chassis.

That does not make it poor quality, just different construction. For a cable that does not need to be flexible it does the job just fine.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

well i ended up going to home depot and buy the welder cable in 2gauge. i bought the smaller box from autozone along with 2 150amp circuit breakers (waterproof) just need a few more things, im following TEDs writeup. but i dont understand what he means by "ground lug" i cant see it cleary in his pic.

nis14

iTrader: (1)

Interesting it might just be cheaper to get this kit then put together a kit one your own. Especially with the closed box and the 20 ft of 2 gauge wiring. All you really need is the breaker.