sub box for luggage compartments
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sub box for luggage compartments
I'm not sure if it was on this board or what, but I remember seeing someone selling 10"subwoofer boxes that fit down in the 2 luggage spaces (right behind each seat). It may have been on ebay. Im just tired of the big *** box in my hatch and was wondering if anyone else has seen these.
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I want pics too! rosrock@hotmail.com
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Originally posted by l33trx7
considering it didn't cost me anything I thought it was a fairly nice setup
considering it didn't cost me anything I thought it was a fairly nice setup
#16
well, there IS a way to make this same setup stealthy. Im currently building it actually. Im going to even out the bump where the box ends by carpeting a piec of wood, and im machining the bin lids to cover the subs, however I will be removing the mesh currently on the speakers.also, if you have one of those hatch covers, you can custom build an awesome looking box that can hold 4 10's easy, and with the cover on, you can't tell. I've got some other designs on paper that are getting computer tested (my friend is an engineering major) but there are a lot of places people don't think of when they install subs
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This is how I did mine. I could still put the lids over them on the storage bins since we built the boxes into the actually storage bins. Pretty stealthy if you ask me
Ps.
If it doesnt load just put this link into your browser http://www.rx7gtuturbo.4t.com/images/dsc00342.jpg
Ps.
If it doesnt load just put this link into your browser http://www.rx7gtuturbo.4t.com/images/dsc00342.jpg
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Ok, i hate to rain on people's parade, but i dont know why people continue to go to the effort to install subs there. My first system in my FC had 2-10's in the storage bins, and it was pretty dissapointing sound wise. Since then, i have moved them to the very rear of the car and put the amps in the storage bins.
WHY????
Because the subs can "load" better when at the rear of the car. This produces not only better sound, but LOUDER bass given all the same inputs and levels as the storage bin box design. While i feel that people have done great jobs on their installs with the subs in the bins, sound wise is really not the best way to go. If i can find a link with pics of my setup, i will.
Good luck with your install, just thought id let you know some stuff from personal experience.
WHY????
Because the subs can "load" better when at the rear of the car. This produces not only better sound, but LOUDER bass given all the same inputs and levels as the storage bin box design. While i feel that people have done great jobs on their installs with the subs in the bins, sound wise is really not the best way to go. If i can find a link with pics of my setup, i will.
Good luck with your install, just thought id let you know some stuff from personal experience.
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fatty, yeah i think the whole point behind why your method works better than the others is because when you have a front firing or top firing woofer, it doesnt resonate against anything immediately, so it has to travel more before it has a chance to hit anything, and it disperses, wasting bass/energy. When you have a rear-firing woofer, it hits objects right away, and because of that, it makes them vibrate and absorb the energy.
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"Because the subs can "load" better when at the rear of the car. This produces not only better sound, but LOUDER bass given all the same inputs and levels as the storage bin box design. While i feel that people have done great jobs on their installs with the subs in the bins, sound wise is really not the best way to go."
That's pure audio magazine horseshit. If anything the location of the subs in the bins would yield the best sound based on time-phase cohesion and equalization of the distance traveled to the ear of all soundwaves.
I'm sure what you were trying to say was that if you placed the subs in the rear of the hatch you would gain a natural horn loading effect from the shape of the car.
This would also not be the case, being that the throat of the "horn" would expand at a non-linear rate and would in effect create "sweet spots" in the frequency response of the enclosure and would completely pooch your sound quality from doing so.
The absolute optimum location for any drivers is in direct vicinity to the other speakers in the car. AKA: the best location for sound quality of the sub would be in the firewall directly in front of the listener.
"Ok, i hate to rain on people's parade..."
I hate when people pull **** out of their *** to try and sound intelligent.
That's pure audio magazine horseshit. If anything the location of the subs in the bins would yield the best sound based on time-phase cohesion and equalization of the distance traveled to the ear of all soundwaves.
I'm sure what you were trying to say was that if you placed the subs in the rear of the hatch you would gain a natural horn loading effect from the shape of the car.
This would also not be the case, being that the throat of the "horn" would expand at a non-linear rate and would in effect create "sweet spots" in the frequency response of the enclosure and would completely pooch your sound quality from doing so.
The absolute optimum location for any drivers is in direct vicinity to the other speakers in the car. AKA: the best location for sound quality of the sub would be in the firewall directly in front of the listener.
"Ok, i hate to rain on people's parade..."
I hate when people pull **** out of their *** to try and sound intelligent.
#24
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Wrong Jim-Bob.
Due to the location of the sub, the waves that make their way backwards result in cancelation.
The best place for everything is the back of the car, SPACIFICALLY the back of the car, FACING the back of the car. w/ the 3-foot space between the speaker, and the rear, cancelation will occur between 60Hz & 120Hz; prime bass area.
It's called transfer function, and can be read about here...
http://www.installer.com/tech/transfer.html
more information...
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html
Due to the location of the sub, the waves that make their way backwards result in cancelation.
The best place for everything is the back of the car, SPACIFICALLY the back of the car, FACING the back of the car. w/ the 3-foot space between the speaker, and the rear, cancelation will occur between 60Hz & 120Hz; prime bass area.
It's called transfer function, and can be read about here...
http://www.installer.com/tech/transfer.html
more information...
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html
Last edited by Liquid Anarchy; 04-19-03 at 03:40 PM.
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And that cancellation will occur long AFTER you have already heard the sound...
That mentality has more to do with SPL competitions than sound quality. Does anyone sit in the back of the hatch listening? Nope. Do reflected waves off the hatch muck up the sound heard by the listener? Yep. Answer: Naturally have them cancel or be absorbed before reaching the listener.
Bass traps are something pretty much everyone on this forum (with a couple notable exeptions) is oblivious to. Not everyone wants to rattle the world, and only a couple forms of music have that as their goal. Natural sound will NOT be achieved with the aforementioned speaker placements, but you will succeed in vibrating more even though it will not sound any better.
That mentality has more to do with SPL competitions than sound quality. Does anyone sit in the back of the hatch listening? Nope. Do reflected waves off the hatch muck up the sound heard by the listener? Yep. Answer: Naturally have them cancel or be absorbed before reaching the listener.
Bass traps are something pretty much everyone on this forum (with a couple notable exeptions) is oblivious to. Not everyone wants to rattle the world, and only a couple forms of music have that as their goal. Natural sound will NOT be achieved with the aforementioned speaker placements, but you will succeed in vibrating more even though it will not sound any better.