So, as the thread says, the previous owner apparently didn't use an anti-sieze compound on the spark plugs when he changed them. It has also been sitting for 9 months, which probably didn't help either. I went to take them out today and the rears came out easy enough, but the front ones were really stuck. I got them out, and it looks about like what I would expext for exhaust studs, but to a lesser degree. Just kinda rusty on the threads.
So my question is, how do I know if it screwed up the housings?

 

probably didnt considering you were able to get them out.

 

As long as any threads didn't come out with the plug you're fine. You may want to clean out the plug holes with some penetrating oil to get out any corrosion.

 

Yeah, I'm going to use a tap and lots of wd-40 to clean it out. I'm pretty sure it'll be ok after that. I'm still curious about what the symptoms of galling are. I've heard it mentioned, but never explained.
Also, is there another spelling for it? I came up with almost nothing when I searched for it.
Edit: according to Wikipedia, its where friction causes small welds, that are then broken leading to an even rougher surface. I took my time (cause it was killing my hands) so I should be ok.

 

Yikes, I would be very carful using a tap there. You could cause some metal shavings that could get flushed into the rotor housing.

I would just put anti sieze on the new plugs and call it a day.

James

 

^+1

 

Aluminum is a pretty gummy metal. When you thread one kind of metal into another (without antiseize) it corrodes. This is when galling occurs. Basically whats happening is some of the aluminum threads are sticking to the threads of the spark plug. They end up rolling into little ***** and "galling" up your threads. All in all, if no threads came out with the plug you don't have to do anything but clean them. If threads did come out however, you need to do a helicoil.

 

ive never done it on any cars that i have. some people swear by it, some dont. its up to you. i never do it though. i just yank em out and pop new ones in.

 

I had read another thread where Kevin recommended putting in a tap with ***-loads of wd-40 or similar to clean out the corrosion. He said that some aluminum should be ok since it is softer than the metals in the combustion chamber. I'm only going to do that if the plugs don't want to go in, though.
And thankfully no threads came out with the plugs. I guess I got lucky on that one. I have always used anti-seize, and after seeing this, I will always continue to do it.

 

I've never used anti-sieze on spark plugs even once, and I've never had a problem removing a spark plug that I installed. All I use is a little spray lube so they're easier to thread in, but I doubt that is of any benefit when they come out. The only time I've had problems removing spark plugs is when other people install them and think they're tightening up a structural bolt. They need hardly any torque on them to seal properly and stay that way (9-13ft-lb). Using a short-handled socket wrench is a good way to avoid over-tightening them and is much easier to work with too.

 

THanks for the tip...


Gil..

 

+1... I hate when plugs are overtightened... To add to that list, I also hate when drain plugs are overtightened.

 

Spark plugs, oil drain plugs and oil filters!!! All need far less tightening torque that a lot of people seem to think.

Anybody else removed a sump to do an oil change?

 

+2 I wouldn't use a tap there.

Me either, not once.

 

Anti-seize affords the same benefit, as well as protects the threads from adhering to the rotor housing and making removal easier. Sure can't hurt applying a small amount before installation. On the rotary I change mine every 6,000 miles using a stubby ratchet as Jason suggests, but on some piston engines, plugs will not be changed for 100,000 miles. Anti-seize helps in my opinion.

There are some (AC Delco) that don't recommend any product that will reduce friction between the threads, as the plug would be turned too far into the treads and plugs stretched if a torque wrench is used. Far fetched, and if you just use common sense when tightening down the plug, no problems.

Back to original post-If a tap is needed to clean up the housings, use grease on the tap so shavings don't fall into the engine.

 

DO NOT use a tap on those threads. they are fine as long as you don't see any broken threads on the spark plugs. don't even spray wd-40 into the plug hole without the some plugs in there, all your going to do is push dirt and debris into the combustion chamber. just put about 2 drops of motor oil on the threads of the new spark plugs and put them in.

 

When I read that people are not using anti-seize on spark plugs, I wish I had a camera to get a picture of the shocked look on my face.

Seriously, there is no good reason not to. It is just a little insurance to make sure you don't have a major hassle down the road. I've never had one gall on me regardless of whether or not it used anti-seize but that doesn't mean putting anti-seize on is pointless. They sure come out easier.

 

Aaron, I don't believe NZ or myself said using it is pointless (there is a defnite point to using the stuff). I just agreed that in my experience of not using it has resulted in no harm.

It's cheap, easy to apply, and good insurance so, if you want to, use it.

 

People keep waiting for that "sinched down" feeling when torquing the plugs, that's why they over-tight them.

I need to buy a click-style torque wrench, cause I know I over tightened last time since I couldn't get me bend-o-gauge style torque wrench in there and read the gauge.

 

I think I read to go finger tight, then a 1/4 turn after that, or something, if you don't have a torque wrench. And thanks for the tips on what to do with the plugs. I'll just use the oil on the threads trick.
As for the oil filter, it is usually the case on my wife's 6 that it isn't tightened enough. Since its such a pita to change the filter, I usually take it to a lube place to get the oil changed. It is virtually impossible to get an oil filter wrench past the exhaust manifold (yes, the exhaust manifold) to the oil filter, so they just hand tighten it usually. The fist I time I had the oil changed, it was leaking oil all over the exhaust manifold from the filter being to loose.

 

I'm sure it makes it easier, but it if they're installed properly it could only be by a very small amount. Even using the stubby socket wrench I mentioned, my spark plugs always come out very easily.

I'm not sure what conditions would cause the threads to seize (other than serious over-tightening), but I just never see that. Maybe if they had been in the engine for years, but that's not likely to be a problem with a regularly driven rotary.

Cripes, I can't think of anything worse that trying to get a torque wrench on my spark plugs with all the A/C and P/S stuff in the way. I really can't see the need for being that precise. I've only ever done it by feel and never had a problem. About a 1/4-turn past seating like Sideways7 said works great.