Alright, alright... yes... I put my battery in backwards. It was stupid. The new battery I bought had the terminals on opposeite sides of the old batteries I had. I didn't find this out until after my the starter wouldn't function and two blown fuses later.

So I connected the cables correctly and tried starting. It wants to start, but doesn't. I didn't smell and fuel at all after trying several times. I checked and listened to see if the fuel pump made that whirling noise; it didn't.

I looked in the Haynes to see why my fuel pump isn't working. Probably the electronics, hence the battery was put in backwards. I checked the fuel pump relay electronics, and that seems to be fine. Does anyone know what else could have happend(electronically) to cause my fuel pump to not function?

All the fuses under the hood are fine(EGI, MAIN, etc.)

Thanks,
Jordan

 

My friend did this with his fc a while back. He ended blowing like, almost every fuse, his cd player, and his ecu got fried. You sound like you may have been more lucky than him.

 

Goddamn. I sure hope so. I mean.. from trying to start it, everything seems to work, just not the fuel pump.

 

We pulled his ecu out and it smelled nice and fried. We swapped in my ecu (he has an 88 na, I had an 88 gxl at the time) to see if that was the definite problem and it did end up being the ecu. I never had this kind of problem so I can't really help, sorry, but good luck on getting your car fixed.

 

when you are trying to start it, does the tach bounce with each rev?
Pick up 2 leds and hook them up to the diag connecter and see if the ecu even turns on correctly

 

The ECU does not control the fuel pump except under load.

I think the ENGINE fuse in the interior is blown. Replace same.

 

Ohh.. there's an engine fuse under the dash on the drivers side you say? Alright, I'll check that out and see if my fuel pump gets a-whirlin! Why didn't I think of that before.

And I don't think the tach bounces when I try and start it, well actually, I don't remember. But if it doesn't bounce, then it may be that engine fuse on the inside, correct?

Thanks guys, I'll see if that fuse is blown.

 

i suppose it's possible that you blew the main relay too. It's on the driver side fenderwall near the trailing coil. It's a metal looking thing with two connectors coming out of it.

 

Damn. Well the engine fuse inside the car is fine. The tach does not move at all when cranking. I haven't checked the main relay, but if that is messed up, could it really only disable the fuel pump?

 

I did that once and the only fuse that blew was the main fuse under the hood. Replaced it and started fine, was like 5 years ago that it happened.

 

Alright, I just checked the EGI main relay and if the resistance is supposed to be 1, then it works properly and I hear the clicking. I even changed it with the one from my other 7. Hmm the diagnosis for it matched perfectly though. "If the EGI main fuse is not blown, and the fuel pump does not work, check the EGI main relay."

So, the main relay is good, and the fuel relay is good too, I think- I'll probably check it again. The tach doesn't move and the fuel pump doesn't pump. I guess I could check the spark, but what's next?

 

pick up 2 leds and hook them in correctly to the diag connector. since the tach isnt bouncing on crank, im thinking your ecu is fried.

 

Did you check the ecu? I know it may not be the problem at all, but my friends got fried and when we swapped in mine his car started right up.

 

yep....

Time to get some LEDs and get some diagnosing done!

 

What exactly is the diagnosing connector? Is that on the ECU? If it is cooked, would my '88 N/A ECU swap with my '88 Turbo, or no, since it's turbo?

Thanks for helping guys, the Haynes comes in handy, but so do people when they know what they're talking about.

Oh, and a quick question... if I'm going to get an Rtek soon, that isn't a whole new ECU, it's just plugged in to it, right? Or do I have it wrong?

 

Double check the circuit open relay under crank. Thats where your fuel pump gets its power.

 

if you get a "new rtek" they you ship them your ECU and they solder in the rtek chip, however, you could get a used one out of the for sale section

 

S4 http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ER...KI/zerror.html

S5 http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ER...KI/kerror.html

 

Alright, I'll look into that, thanks.

Oh man, I didn't even think about looking there! Your help is much appreciated .

 

The ENGINE fuse powers up the MAIN RELAY.

Once the Main Relay is pulled in, its contacts feed the coils and the ECU.

The CAS when spinning, puts out a a/c voltage to the ECU which in turn looks at the signal and determines when the sparkplugs spark and when the injectors inject.

NO power to the ECU and no power to the coil assy's means no kaboom in the rotors. No output from the CAS to the ECU means no spark and no fuel even if the ECU itself has power.

I don't see an inexpensive way to fix a car without a basic multimeter. Parts swapping should only be used in the AF by coneheads, not real mechanics. humor for the rat.

So, if you read the above, you'd want to go to the small, white, two socket connector on the LEAD coil assy and pull it apart and check for 12vdc at the black/yellow wire. 'And then write back for further instructions.

About fuel pumps in a series four car. It ONLY works if the key is HELD to START or if the engine is actually running and the key is returned to ON.

Or if the key is to ON and the fuel pump check connector in the engine bay is jumpered.

Or if the key is to ON and you push the vane in the afm aft a touch.

The pump will NOT run if the key is just to ON.

If the tach does not make real small bounces when you TRY to start the car, then most likely the coils are not getting any voltage.

 

you most likley spiked your ECU dude

 

I do have a multimeter. So you're saying the next thing I need to do after checking the ECU is to check that two socket connector on the leading coil pack for 12vdc? And if both those work, check the CAS? Am I getting this right?