Forgive me if this sounds all a bit silly, but, is it possible to install a strut bar with my A.A.S. system still installed? Yes, my A.A.S. still works and the difference in cruising ride is noticable, so I'd like to keep it that way. I don't actually *have* a problem with the car twisting, but I'd like it to be as stiff as I can reasonably have it.

 

Yes, you can. Beware though, I have heard the strut bar can cause more understeer.

 

meh, all depends on how you drive,

just unplug the aas plugs and install like normal. plug back together .


( remember the correct way to install a sb is to have the front end off the ground )

 

if that is the ONLY mod that you have on the car, then due to the laws of physics you will have more stability around corners (understeer). on the up side, you will have better steering responce and better turn in.

if you are thinking about getting a front strut tower bar, get the set from corksport (front and rear) a set will be much more beneficial that just the front. if you can only afford just one, then get the rear first.

to install the front struts you dont need to have the front end off the ground at all. if your chassis is tweaked a little bit then you may have to lower the shocks to make sure they go in, otherwise no big deal.

 

i just put on front and rear strut bars on my fc, and i have the aas struts still...works fine, getting the back one on is a BITCH tho, use a hole drill bit for the back. def. helps. good luck

 

Plus, your usable cargo space gets cut in half (at least when it comes to big items) when you have a rear strut tower bar on an FC...although I guess it would help keep things from sliding around so much...

It would be nice if they made a rear strut tower bar that is quick-detach or something.

I'm considering geting the Mazdatrix triangulated front bar, with the engine damper, once I raise 300 bucks that I can blow on upgrade parts (that'll be a while), since I could use the damper (engine moves a bit too much for my taste, and I don't want to get new mounts), and you know for sure the rigidy will be increased with the overkill tig welding, one-peice design, and firewall brace.

White probably won't go so well with a blue engine bay though... and it's expensive.

 

ummm why dont you want to get comp mounts? they are cheaper, and be better than an engine dampener

 

Because I just said I DON'T WANT NEW ENGINE MOUNTS. Mine are fine, and I don't want to install them either (I know it's not hard but I don't want to).

And they aren't cheaper than an engine dampener, either (40 bucks versus 80).