When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know people are positivity sick of starting issues, I have searched hi and low for a resolution but no one really has the same symptoms or mods/emission control.
ISSUE-
Car cranks and stutters like it’s going to start. Under normal cranking it’s hitting 380rpm on the microtech,
i normally flood it before it starts so I dry out plugs and un flood the motor attach it to my van and try again.
it will still struggle but I do get it started after a fair amount of cranking.
once it’s started I’ve adjusted the map so it idles perfect (when warm)
idles at 2k as it’s a full Bridgeport. And it’s just where it’s happiest at the minute.
TRIED-
Bigger CCA battery (current batt is brand new and 900cca)
Brand new starter motor (did make a small increase in speed, a lot quieter)
Messed with the map but I’m not a wiz with these but I am getting better.
Just messed with the timing to see if it helped as I originally set it up to the factory marks.
Now back to factory marks and restabbed the CAS. (As no change or made it worse)
MODS-
T2 Full Bridgeport with one peice tips
All emissions removed
Idle control valve removed
Holset hx52
340lph fuel pump
standard 550 injectors and fuel rails. (Will upgrade ones I have it starting on the key)
uprated the supply lines to the standard rail ready for the upgrade (6AN)
microtech LT10 with x4 box running 4x trailing coil packs
Map-I searched for a Bridgeport map on here and adjusted to suit my idle and Afr’s
It sounds like you are good cranking wise, your starter and battery are doing fine. 250rpm is about normal cranking RPM.
Is your water temp sender for the ECU reading properly? Do you have it set up to add fuel when cold?
Will the car start when it's warmed up?
You may also want to get another set of leading plugs, maybe even get 7 heat range, while you are getting things sorted out. It's REALLY hard to impossible to clean fouled plugs, nothing beats fresh out of the box plugs.
The car starts better when warm but still not as if expect.
the plugs are new and I’ve ran the car for a few hours in total now. I could try a new set of plugs but I’m sure no one changes them every TIL they flood. But worth a go.
The crank map is set to add fuel but obviously setting the cranking map is a bit of trial and error as while I’m trying the water temp changes and thus changes the cell I need to adjust if you catch my drift.
There should be a general water temp correction map that richness the whole map based on water temp only. I'm not super familiar with the Microtech but that's a common thing on most any fuel injection system.
I agree you shouldn't need to get new plugs every time you flood but if you are trying to start a new engine and you've fouled the plugs it's worth getting a fresh set. You can just do leadings, the trailings won't do that much as far as getting it running and idling. Again, I'd get BUR7EQ's, they will want to foul much less than colder plugs. Once you get things dialed in swap back in to regular plugs.
You probably need to double-check the basics such as making sure the crank angle sensor and base timing is dead on.
Did you delete the thermowax/mechanical fast idle during warmup from the throttle body? I see you removed the idle control (BAC) valve, so assuming the microtech can drive the BAC, putting the BAC back on would help a lot with the cold starts & idle during the warm-up cycle.
There should be a general water temp correction map that richness the whole map based on water temp only. I'm not super familiar with the Microtech but that's a common thing on most any fuel injection system.
I agree you shouldn't need to get new plugs every time you flood but if you are trying to start a new engine and you've fouled the plugs it's worth getting a fresh set. You can just do leadings, the trailings won't do that much as far as getting it running and idling. Again, I'd get BUR7EQ's, they will want to foul much less than colder plugs. Once you get things dialed in swap back in to regular plugs.
You probably need to double-check the basics such as making sure the crank angle sensor and base timing is dead on.
Dale
Thanks Dale I will get some new plugs anyway spares are a must so I will pick some up regardless,
there is a water correction map and I’ve tried putting more fuel in and tried taking fuel out.
my mates bringing my a timing light to double check my timing but it’s bang on the factory settings at the min. As I rechecked it yesterday before I posted.
Did you delete the thermowax/mechanical fast idle during warmup from the throttle body? I see you removed the idle control (BAC) valve, so assuming the microtech can drive the BAC, putting the BAC back on would help a lot with the cold starts & idle during the warm-up cycle.
Thanks Pete.
the thermowax has been removed also the only control I have for idle is the screw on the cable attachment,
im happy to hold the idle myself till it’s warm.
I missed some information, not sure if it matters or not but I have removed the Omp completely and run premix think I’m running 4oz per 20L. 4.4 gallon if I’m right?
11-17-18, 12:48 PM
