I'm not going to get crazy with the port... Scout's Honor.

 

When I get a rebuild this winter, this guy I know is offering to port my engine for me for free. He has never ported an Rx-7 but he quote "took a class that taught him how to port in college". SHould I go for the free streetport or look for some local person who's knowelegable about the FC from this site come over and help out? the guy who wants to port has helped rebuild the engine of and FD with 450 HP that was streetported and he says he knows "how the ports should look" but he didn't do that porting himself. Should I go for that? I just didn't want to start another thread and spam anyhting up and this isn't really threadjacking because it's essentially the same question.

 

If you port anything to far even SP will brap. Theoretically if you don’t go huge b/c there’s more often not a reason to then too it will not brap. Hell if you toss enough fuel at it a stock port will brap.

I don't street port NA's without excessive mods. Just port the runners and the exhaust, don’t bring the exhaust port down and up to .5mm A on the intake port timing if you must mess with it.

 

It seems almost foolish to not port the thing while you have it open....ported mine and it made for a nice increase across the powerband.

 

Do you have any idea how bridge porting actually works? A half-bridge on even an unported exhaust exhibits like 40+ more degrees of overlap then a stock intake port. The eyebrow port essentially never closes and is almost fully exposed to the exhaust port for quite a while.

Take a look at this for the basics of porting and port timing:
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/re101/ports.php

It can be a confusing subject, but please do not post if you are unsure.

It really has nothing to do with how much fuel you are injecting. In fact adding fuel can often help smooth the idle...

Increasing runner volume kills throttle response and can be detrimental to velocity. Stock runners are best, with some roughness left to encourage laminar flow.

On turbo cars, bringing the exhaust down can dramatically increase spool and is often the best way to port since bringing the port up just increases overlap which can kill low end.

I'm not sure what that means. There is no way to (effectively) port a rotary without changing port timing.

 

The last three things you posted on I was referencing NA not turbo. As there techniques are entirely different.

Like I said he asked me so I gave him my techniques and theories on porting NA. Either a custom mani or large amounts of modding before I adjust port timing of the intake. I do not polish my intakes for the reason you just stated.

I studied the rotary illustrations page around 8months ago when I started to develop my own ports.

 

....

 

Get your own thread....

 

im planning to buy a 10th ae, and most of them need an engine rebuild. i have never done an engine rebuild before so i dont know where to start. where is a good and cheap place where i can get an engine rebuild and the engine ported?

 

There is no such thing as good and cheap. If it's cheap, it is not good. If it's good, it is not cheap.

My advice is to go to your regional forum and find a local builder who you can sit down and talk with. That way you can meet them face to face, ask anything you need, and have someone to complain to if something doesn't go right.

 

do it

 

port it like this all round. you'll go hard adn have the toughest BP out


ye yeaaa go the monster bridge

 

Hit up the west section. We have awesome engine builders in CA.

 

wow thats one big bridge.

 

I see no reason not to port it. It's the best way to get power from an N/A and a bridge on a turbo would spank any comparable car. I'm definatly doin' it when my 136k motor lets go!

 

Don't mean to threadjack but can an n/a be bridge ported or just get a big street port?

 

Of course an NA can be bridge ported! If you intend to drive the car on the street as a daily driver, an NA bridgeport is not really a good choice if you value things like an idle...The powerband will also shift up so in traffic driving can be annoying. It will also require you to convert to a standalone EMS system to properly tune it...So if any of these things are an issue for you, stick with a street port.

Turbo bridgeports don't really have these issues.

For the love of god, don't port an engine like the one above for street use. J-bridgeports are probably the most unreliable port of all time...If you want to go j-bridge, just go peripheral.