I attempted a street port job on my primary ports with a Mazdatrix template (albiet, poorly cut out by me), and I had some issues with the lines traced from the template not totally matching up with the actual port.

I guess next time I'll remember never to port a recently lapped side housing, because you don't have the wear marks telling you where not to go.

Anyone, I think I might have gone too far into the oil seal, and a bit too far into the corner seal (which isn't as big of a deal as the oil seals).

Can someone tell me if I've totally FUBAR'ed my center housing? I'm DEFINATELY getting the other side of the template cut out by a machine instead of by hand. Then again, it's totally BS that you have to cut it out yourself despite paying $50+ for it.

I put a rotor housing and turned my rotor around to leave some oil seal and corner seal marks for reference.

(For the record, both pics are of the same port. The port on the other side will probably end up OK, if a little smaller than the other one.

 

can you show a pic of your template? im going to say that engine would probably smoke :[

 

Just riding a bit on the outer seal? I guess I should be grateful that there's two oil seals.

 

try pineapple racing next time.i bought my templates from them,they were cheaper and already cut out.

 

Yeah, but I didn't like the look of the template... a little too rounded.

Which in hindsight, was kind of a waste since I did such a hack job of grinding it out.

 

I think you are likely in trouble there. Unless I'm misreading your pics, it looks like the inner face of the port (facing the oil seal track) is convex. I have yet to see a center plate that had enough safety margin in that area to allow a convex shape without getting quite a bit into the oil seal track. You may have two oil seals, but it needs them both. I expect you will still get leakage, smoky exhaust and dirty oil.
I'm not sure about the opening and closing lines. I know you can't go far at all (a few mm) on the housing (opening) side without losing side seal support. I have seen sideseal-unsupported engines work, but not without a nice scissored top (closing) line. In the pics, you top line looks rounded and not terribly well radiused (ramped). I'm afraid it's likely going to be very rough on side seals.
Have you gauged the depths of the skip marks on the iron face above the port? I've heard that light marks may not hurt compression and durability much, but there is certainly a limit. After trashing a practice housing, I learned that leaving the port template in place for most of the face work protects agains runaways. When you want to fine-tune the port face you can apply a few layers of electrical tape, which protects pretty well from a casual "oops".
One of the big advantages of streetporting is that you can get all the ports closer to the same, so they complement each other in reversion pulse tuning. If one port is smaller than the other, you are likely to lose a fair bit of power. I expect you'll induce a fair bit of engine vibration as well.
There is a large amount of good inforation on this and other forums, as well as a number of videos. Please spend some more time studying and then try it again. You will enjoy your car a lot more that way.

 

It's a bit convex, due to the template being cut badly and being confusing. Actually, there were parts of the template that overlapped over the stock ports, and I had to smooth out the port to match it.

I think it might be intruding into the outer oil seal by 2-3 mm.

And that wasn't even from the bad cut, the template itself might have actually been off, or less likely, the stock port might have been slightly off.

I think the side seals should be OK. I've lost a bit of corner seal support though (maybe 1/4 or 1/3rd of it, but the side seal contacts at the half way point).

Makes me wonder why people even do this crap by hand.

Everything is relatively well "ramped" IMO, given the circumstances.


I think I know where I can get another intermediate housing, but that means I've wasted about $140 dollars getting it lapped.

 

I wonder if you can weld on any spots that you bugger up and then get them milled flat... and then regrind the ports.

 

i saw an iron that had an attempted repair as they had breeched the water jacket...it looked horrible for the sake of air flow :[

i just looked at my unported center iron...and honestly there is barely .5mm of material between the stock portsize and the wear mark.

certainly wouldn't assemble an engine with those ports. either trash them or attempt a weld....

 

I wish you luck man, hopefully you can salvage that one.

 

From my calculations, both ports should have sufficient side seal support, even if they only only support 2/3rds or slightly more than 1/2 of the corner seal (I guess I made an accidental race port).

Just need to see about getting some welds done...

 

Why did you have the plate lapped before you ported it?

 

Because the template came in afterwards... and I was going to Altlanta anyway, so I had to take them with me.

There's a place nearby that apparently laps industrial pump parts, so they might be able to relap my center housing in case I can weld it (apparently welding on cast steel is a little hard but not impossible).

I just cut out the other half of the template, and did a MUCH better job this time. I masked off the holes with aluminum duct tape and used a spiral sanding roll to finish the hole instead of a grinder (I didn't realize sandpaper would cut through aluminum so easily...). But I'm not going to try to port these until I can figure out of I can repair my previous damage.