Check the voltage at the ECU for the water thermosensor. W/key to on and the engine cold it should read 2 to 3 volts. When warm the reading should be close to .5 volts. If the reading is high w/the engine warm then the ECU thinks the car is cold which uses more fuel and might result in the flooding issue. Also, is the engine and all the wiring JDM or is part of it USDM?

 

-I cleaned all of the engine and ECU grounds. I will start looking at dash grounds next time I have some time with it.
-The boost gauge is working properly now that I hav the correct N318 pressure sensor installed. The car no longer bogs/hits fuel cut. Only the flooding/AC fan running with key out issues remain.
-Which one is the thermosensor? I have 2 sensors on the back of my Tstat housing. One looks like a fuel injector connector with the metal clip. The other (broken) one looks like the one on the bottom of the radiator.
-Thanks for the link.

 

I will check the voltage at the thermoswitch wire at the ECU tonight if I can make time. Very few of my wires match up with the colors in the FSM (see post on page 1 regarding pressure sensor testing), so I beleive it is safe to say I have a JDM late s4 harness (center mounted injector plug alignment ribs).

 

I don't remember if I missed it if you did already but getting compression numbers might be a good idea if you're having problems hot starting. Weak compression and hot start flooding go hand in hand.

Also a weak starter can make hot start flooding more prevalent if the compressions weak. A nice fast spinning starter will fire up a weaker compression engine easier and be less likely to flood instead.

 

I have been checking it by holding my hand over the plug holes while cranking. I will buy a compression tester try and get numbers ASAP. The car cranks fairly quickly, but I will double check my starter wiring and see if that helps. I've killed my Optima yellow three times over the past week thrying to start/unflood so far, so I would say I've been hard on the starter. Maybe it is getting weak, but it doesn't seem any worse than when I first got it.

I am stuck in a hotel in the city for work for the next few days, and probably won't have time to mess with it again until Friday or Saturday night. Keep those suggestions coming, it has to be SOMETHING......thanks again guys.....

 

Yeah get the actual numbers. Make sure you perform the test properly as it's not the same as the piston engines.

Fingers over the holes isn't accurate 3 even puffs might be 3 good or 3 weak. Always good to know even if it's not your issue which hopefully it's not.

 

I'll check as soon as I can.

I paid over $4k to have this motor built 74 (seventy-four) km ago, new s5 rotors and housings, all brand new seals, so there better not be a compression issue, but not going to hurt to check; you're right.

 

Lol, when I read "74km ago" I thought to myself "What? Bernie Sanders isn't president yet" but then I noticed you are in Canada.

I would highly doubt a compression issue considering the mileage, but still worth checking.

My car can be a bit weird when I crank it hot but it's because my coolant temp sensor is off. It'll start fine but will idle a little rough for a few seconds until the motor clears out the excess fuel the ECU dumped in during start. Runs great and is a strong motor. Idles spot on at 750rpm even with the charging system loaded up, the idle never budges. I've actually been thinking of making a youtube video titled "ever seen an rx7 idle perfect under any circumstances?".

 

I guess I missed or forgot the part where it's a recent rebuild. Its not that uncommon for rebuilds to be a pain to start until they have worn in and compression has come up. But still probably worth checking.

 

I installed a switch in line with the 12V signal to the fuel pump, and can get the car to fire right up every time this way. At least this way I can start breaking in this engine.

For some reason I can hear the fuel pump running all the time while cranking the car. If I remember correctly, it is supposed to prime when the ignition is turned to on, then stop until fuel pressure drops, usually when the car starts. Mine is ALWAYS running as long as I am trying to start the car and I think that is what is making it flood.

Also, the round relay closest to the center of the car is clicking as soon as the battery is connected. I am pretty sure this relay controls the electric fan, and not sure why it would always have power if the battery is connected. For now, I just unplugged the electric fan.