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So this summer i should have around 320-400whp depending on how far we get on tuning.. now! as of last year i had 205/16/55 on all 4s.. traction was an issue some of the time.. but barely drove the car past 6-8psi so it dealt with the tires fine! now im afraid im going to have no traction what so ever below 4th gear at WOT.. any tire/rim combo that would be suggested for mild DD and track?
This is on a fc just in case someone needs to know!
I'm running 17x9.5 +18's squared on my car, stock body. You can definitely go wider in the rear, but with that amount of power, 255/40/17's should be enough.
sticky tires at 205 i dont think will hold lol do you?
going from a 225/45/15 RA1 to a 225/45/15 Hoosier drops about 2 seconds off of our lap times. which is a huge difference, nothing else we've done to the car has that big an impact on lap times, except the driver
I'm running 255 40 17 , 17x9+22 all around with shine fenders up front. with 2.5 degrees front camber. Lots of clearance up front with shine fenders, I heard with stock fenders you would have to run over 3 degrees, and maybe rolling. The rear needs rolling to clear. My rear camber was only 1.2 to 1.5 degrees, I forgot, but our cars are known to gain lots of negative camber as the suspension moves.
Do everything you can, sticky tires are #1, wider tires and alignment will help you a lot. Maybe also changing spring rates so the rear doesn't squat as much under had acceleration, maybe a little rake too
I would do 17x9 +35 for all four with 255/40-17 and run a 10mm spacer up front to clear coilovers.
Rears will fit great without camber needed, front will need rolled fenders and -2.5 to 3 degrees camber.
I've been very impressed by Fortune 500 coilovers for budget coilovers.
You don't even need a spacer up front with these coilovers; you could adjust the bottom of the strut for max Positive camber and the top of the strut for max Negative camber and run +35 offset front with 255 tire and rolled fenders with a moderate amount of camber (-1 to -2 deg.)
ScrapFC's car on this forum has the above set-up and is awesome to drive.
I would do 17x9 +35 for all four with 255/40-17 and run a 10mm spacer up front to clear coilovers.
Rears will fit great without camber needed, front will need rolled fenders and -2.5 to 3 degrees camber.
I've been very impressed by Fortune 500 coilovers for budget coilovers.
You don't even need a spacer up front with these coilovers; you could adjust the bottom of the strut for max Positive camber and the top of the strut for max Negative camber and run +35 offset front with 255 tire and rolled fenders with a moderate amount of camber (-1 to -2 deg.)
ScrapFC's car on this forum has the above set-up and is awesome to drive.
I would listen to bluet2!. His recommended size wheels is what I would do. The size I got does not work without a lot of camber
Another vote for 17x9s all around and 255/40/17 sticky tires.. I ran that setup for a few years, it will work well on the street and track. You won't have a traction problem in a straight line.
Fortune coilovers are great for tire clearance.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; Feb 2, 2016 at 12:35 AM.
i have a pretty much stock turbo 2 running 10psi, i have a 245-45-17 on a 17x8 wheel on the back and they never want to spin in the dry, in the rain they can spin pretty easy.
i have a pretty much stock turbo 2 running 10psi, i have a 245-45-17 on a 17x8 wheel on the back and they never want to spin in the dry, in the rain they can spin pretty easy.
You are probably at 225 RWHP, at 350 RWHP, its fairly easy to brake traction when shifting WOT to 2nd gear on a 17 x 9.5 rear rim on a 275 wide 220 treadware tire
On the stock BBS vert wheels and Yokohama yk580's (205 65 15) They break loose in 1-2 and 2-3 gear changed under high rpm WOT (I shift at 7500 so not even at the buzzer).
200hp at the wheels vert, street port. Most porting done on the exhaust and very mild porting on the primaries. I never went to pick up the dyno slip from Rotary Performance when it was done (wife, kid, work...I dont even have time to replace my alternator belt!).