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Quicky: What causes the N374 not to work when doing an NA to Tii conversion?

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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:56 PM
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Quicky: What causes the N374 not to work when doing an NA to Tii conversion?

In the process of swapping motors. S5 NA to S5 TII.

Just wondering, becuase I don't want to send the N374 in to get RTEK'd if it's not going to properly run the motor...

Is there anything that can be done to combat this?
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 06:21 PM
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my theory is that its the speed limit fuel cut, the JDM ECU's cut the rear rotor at @120kph (or something), and i think when you just throw the ecu into a US car, it thinks you're going too fast.

chipped ecus, which have the limiter removed, do not seem to have this problem and work fine.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 11:58 PM
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Isn't it something with the boost sensor input itself? That's what I thought
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 11:47 AM
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Personally I've had no problems with the N374 ECU in stock form. It ran my T2 swapped 91 with no issues well past 100mph. I also ran my T2 swapped FB with another N374 (again a un chipped one) for 10k miles or more with no issues there either.

I seriously think all the myth about them not working in US cars is because they get banged around so bad on the boat ride over that they are DOA... Just my theory though
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 12:42 PM
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nope, i have also experienced the N374 first hand as well running on just the front rotor.

if you simplify the harness and eliminate all the uneeded wires you are probably inadvertantly defeating the problem area. but no one has spent time to find out which circuit is the problematic one, the wiring diagram is in japanese.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
my theory is that its the speed limit fuel cut, the JDM ECU's cut the rear rotor at @120kph (or something), and i think when you just throw the ecu into a US car, it thinks you're going too fast.

chipped ecus, which have the limiter removed, do not seem to have this problem and work fine.
Here is an excert from a thread I started acouple years ago. This was becoming my theory at the time. Don't know if anyone has actually tried to confirm it.

Originally Posted by Dak
This may have been covered previously and I didn't search enough( sorry if this is the case) but here goes. So I'd like to do a TII swap eventually. I see complete engines, trans, harness and ecu on ebay all the time. Already knew to not bother with the JDM harness and the motor was prob. only good as a core for rebuilding. What I just discovered last night is the N374ecu doesn't work in a swap most of the time unless you get lucky and get a chipped one, but it does work in USDM factory turbo cars. Most threads on here seem to only talk about/speculate/try to figure out the differences between the N370 and N374 ecu. My thought was what is different in the USDM n/a and turbo cars that would cause the N374 to malfunction. After looking at the ECU pinouts in my FSM here is what I've came up with. If you used your n/a harnes and connected everything in the engine bay correctly why won't it work? I think the problem could lie elsewhere in the car. I've found two pinout differences that aren't in the engine bay. I'll start with the one that's less likely the issue.

Pin 3N on the n/a is an output to the EC-AT control unit. It's not used on the TII.

Now the one that has me curious:
Pin 1U on the n/a is an input connected to the AT switch. It's signal to the ecu is:
A/T Trans = approx. 0V
M/T Trans = approx. 12V

Pin 1U on the turbo is an input from Mileage sensor #2(there is only one on the n/a). It's signal is:

Under 600mi. = approx. 12V
Over 600mi = approx. 0V

Since most swaps are mt cars there will be 12V on this pin. Could it be on the N374 this pin expects 0V but sees 12V and this puts the ecu in some mode that doesn't fire the rear injectors? I read in my searches that there is a speed limiter on the JDM cars. Could this pin be the one used for that? Your trying to start the car but it thinks your going 155kph and shuts fuel and/or spark however they do it. It would make sense if a chipped N374 removes the limiter it may ignore this pin.

Anybody explored this avenue? If it's been tried sorry for the long wasted post. If not it doesn't seem that hard to test. One way since I suspect these sensors live in the instrument cluster( I know the mileage sensors do) would be to swap a TII cluster into a swapped car that has a non working N374. One could also cut the wire to Pin 1U and ground it thus putting it at 0V.

I thought surely someone else has thought of this but if not, maybe I'm onto something.
Here is the thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...oblem-1015927/
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
nope, i have also experienced the N374 first hand as well running on just the front rotor.

if you simplify the harness and eliminate all the uneeded wires you are probably inadvertantly defeating the problem area. but no one has spent time to find out which circuit is the problematic one, the wiring diagram is in japanese.
It's possible that in the case of my T2 FB this is correct since I did omit some things on the third gang plug (the one that comes from the body harness), although all emissions equip was still there.

On my FC though it was a completely untouched body harness, and the engine harness was a S5 NA converted to T2 specs, all wires were there and hooked up. It ran perfectly. The ECU was definitely not chipped.

Very Strange
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