Storing the Wankel?
#26
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Aiken SC USA
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Coolant: I don't worry about that, I use EVANS NPG+, no water to cause corrosion. The best approach if you use EG would be to do a good flush and refill to your particuliaar EG MFG specifications. It is best not to start the engine every week or month. Why you ask?
You won't run it long enough or hot enough to burn off any moisture that has collected in the engine or exhaust, plus you have to refog the engine.
You won't run it long enough or hot enough to burn off any moisture that has collected in the engine or exhaust, plus you have to refog the engine.
#29
Opinions are like........
Anything else...I store my car soon also...
Fresh oil, fresh coolant, fresh tank of gas with fuel stabilizer, car cover, moth *****, armor-all the interior, wax exterior, shine up tires and all rubber hoses/door gaskets, put car up on jack stands/blocks, disconnect battery and/or trickle charge, engine detailer or wax(prevents hoses from cracking), lube hinges/locks,
Engine fog(you'll need to remove plug, fog engine, and rotate with wrench on accessory or pulley nut, otherwise you are fogging 1/3 of engine)
http://www.falconsafety.com/nautica/n2fg.html
http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=408
Engine detailer:
http://waxdepot.safeshopper.com/65/315.htm?745
http://midwayautosupply.com/detailed...ption.asp?1079
Gas(fuel stabilizer):
http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=408
http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/faqs.htm
Can't go wrong with the full range of products from:
http://www.crcindustries.com/
And, get seafoam at napa:
edit: hate when links don't work, lets try again:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechDiesel.htm
Did I miss anything?
Engine fog(you'll need to remove plug, fog engine, and rotate with wrench on accessory or pulley nut, otherwise you are fogging 1/3 of engine)
http://www.falconsafety.com/nautica/n2fg.html
http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=408
Engine detailer:
http://waxdepot.safeshopper.com/65/315.htm?745
http://midwayautosupply.com/detailed...ption.asp?1079
Gas(fuel stabilizer):
http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=408
http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/faqs.htm
Can't go wrong with the full range of products from:
http://www.crcindustries.com/
And, get seafoam at napa:
edit: hate when links don't work, lets try again:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechDiesel.htm
Did I miss anything?
Last edited by deadRX7Conv; 08-08-02 at 10:17 PM.
#30
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I would skip the armor-all (HACK PRODUCT IMHO) and use 303 Aerospace protectant.
http://www.properautocare.com/303-16.html
For waxing and detailing info:
http://autopia.ws/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=3
http://www.properautocare.com/303-16.html
For waxing and detailing info:
http://autopia.ws/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=3
#32
OK, 8 days til mine goes into storage.
So, fogging oil will stop rust and seizure... cool
But what about the dreaded carbon we all hate so, so much? I don't wanna start the car up next spring, drive it around and have the engine go POP in the middle of august.... .
Does the fogging oil stop the carbon from hardening around the apex seals and such?
So, fogging oil will stop rust and seizure... cool
But what about the dreaded carbon we all hate so, so much? I don't wanna start the car up next spring, drive it around and have the engine go POP in the middle of august.... .
Does the fogging oil stop the carbon from hardening around the apex seals and such?
#35
Oh, I'm storing it for college... freshman year so this is my first time.
I've driven in the past 2 winters though... no problems
Yeah, HAILERS or RETed or anyone got some advice on anti-carb0n from storing?
I've driven in the past 2 winters though... no problems
Yeah, HAILERS or RETed or anyone got some advice on anti-carb0n from storing?
#39
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Location: Sterling Heights, MI
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so I'm gonna be staying in an apartment in the winter months, and it's going to be in a carport all winter.
What would be the problem with just putting it on jackstands with the tires just barely resting on the ground? And for the engine/everything else, just starting that biotch up and running the motor for maybe 15 minutes once a week? If that's a problem, how about running it even longer?
What would be the problem with just putting it on jackstands with the tires just barely resting on the ground? And for the engine/everything else, just starting that biotch up and running the motor for maybe 15 minutes once a week? If that's a problem, how about running it even longer?
#41
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Originally posted by dre_2ooo
Oh, I'm storing it for college... freshman year so this is my first time.
Oh, I'm storing it for college... freshman year so this is my first time.
Me too!!
('cept I'm going to university... 1st year engineering...)
#42
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The prob with a 15 minute start-up is that the engine does not get hot enough to get rid of all the moisture that will instantly condense in your exhaust system. You also need to get all the fluids nice and hot to drive out the moisture that is present in the sumps. Better to remove the battery, keep it charged and do a full start-up in the spring. Plus you would need to refog the engine after every start-up for maximum protection.
#44
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Originally posted by dre_2ooo
Errr... i meant UNIVERSITY, engineering as well...
Errr... i meant UNIVERSITY, engineering as well...
Crazy.... I always thought you were older than me.... who knew....
#46
Opinions are like........
Why is everyone worrying about carbon buildup during storage? Its more likely to happen while you are driving the car
Just run a couple bottles of quality FI/topend cleaner a few tanks before storage, and don't worry about it. The 'engine foam' will keep everything from sticking for long term storage. It may even loosen up some of the carbon. Your car might run better after storage. Think of it as a 6 month ATF treatment.
Either you're gonna put the car in storage long term or not. Running the car weekly/monthly isn't storage. If your gonna run the car weekly, take it for a long ride, top off fluids/gas, and put it away for another week. That isn't storage. Thats a weekend driver
Just run a couple bottles of quality FI/topend cleaner a few tanks before storage, and don't worry about it. The 'engine foam' will keep everything from sticking for long term storage. It may even loosen up some of the carbon. Your car might run better after storage. Think of it as a 6 month ATF treatment.
Either you're gonna put the car in storage long term or not. Running the car weekly/monthly isn't storage. If your gonna run the car weekly, take it for a long ride, top off fluids/gas, and put it away for another week. That isn't storage. Thats a weekend driver
#47
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this is y i love florida. no emissions tests. can kill ricers 365 days a year. (well when your car is running) i dont like it in CA. if you mod your intake and dont have a sticker for it you get a ticket. if you lower your car or put on a kit and it is lower than stock you get a ticket. cops are dicks out there. thats y i love Florida "the ricer state."
#48
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Carbon buildup only occurs when the car burns fuel. Hence unburnt hydrocarbons stick to your rotor surfaces, apex seals intake, ect when you drive like a grandma. The best way to prevent carbonbuildup is to change your oil, put fresh gas in the car, take the car out for one last redline and put stay-bil in your gas tank. It might be a good idea to have someone start the car and let it idle for about 5 minutes each week.
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