First, I'd like to say that either I suck at searching, or this search engine sucks. It doesn't matter what search terms I use, Old Guys With FBs is always in the top ten.


Anyway, I'm getting pretty good at the de-flooding procedure. I can do it in 15 minutes. I works the first time about 50 percent of the time.

However, it would be way better not to have to do it. Other than being very careful, what can I do to fix this problem permanently?

Doug

 

I'm not quite sure I understand what you're asking? You want to eliminate the source of the flooding? Easy, have the injectors serviced or replaced, ensure the proper fuel pump and FPR are installed in your car (appropriate for its modifications) and working, and if tuned on some sort of ECU ensure someone with competence tunes the startup map.

 

If your car is the 89 in your signature you shouldn't even need to do a "deflood procedure" holding the accelerator to the floor when cranking should kill your injectors automatically and when released start injecting again.

Check your compression before you assume injectors, or better yet test the injectors for leaking prior to sending them out or part swapping.

Diagnose first then swap parts.

Most flooding is from weak compression. Injectors leaking line pressure through into the intake when the engines off does happen and will cause it to flood but injectors are pretty reliable even the old styles. Leaner starting mixes will help lower compression motors. Also check spark plug condition if the plugs are very worn it can sometimes cause longer or hard starts. Slow starters never help either.

No one wants to think or consider they might have weak or bad compression but its unfortunately common, especially when so many owners who have no business being under the hood of a weed eater start messing with "making it better"

 

Kinda harsh there. I sent the injectors out to be cleaned etc 18 months ago. It has a Racing Beat header and exhaust and a K&N filter. Other than that, it's stock. The compression hasn't been tested since 2006 when I bought it. It's got about 115K on it, so maybe that's where the problem lies.

Maybe I should have mentioned that flooding usually happens when the car is stalled within a few minutes of start-up. From what I've read, I thought this had something to do with the cold start protocol.


Doug

 

Sorry if you thought that was directed at you I only meant people in general.

If your injectors were cleaned that recently I doubt it's the issue unless it sits a lot. I would check the compression and try out the holding the gas full throttle cranking for deflooding because all the s5 cars should do it unless somethings wrong.

 

kind of funny that most people say the Rotary Sounds like a Weed Whacker though ..MJH..lol!

I agree though that a Comp Test is like the Dentist.Guys will stay away from it~!

 

I just posted these links in another post the other day. If your car floods or hot starts and you have to de-flood to start it. Then this is a cheap fix. Just do your research and make your own opinion. I think my issue is probably in the tuning as well and if it was tuned well I wouldn't need it. I have switch I throw if it doesn't start after the 1st or 2nd try to cut fuel until it starts then flip it back. I have not checked my compression after i rebuilt the motor, but I know for sure it is better due to performance. I have so much stuff in my engine bay it makes it hard to remove spark plugs . Anyways hope this helps and good luck in getting that issue taken care of.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...thread-932606/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...switch-714741/

 

While those may help they only band aid the issue. As cars with proper compression and everything else in working order don't need fuel cut switches or pressure bleeds.

His profile shows an s5 anyways which has built in fuel cut if the throttle is held wide open during cranking. (many vehicles use this system even non rotarys.)

 

While you are right this does not fix the root cause. It is however a cheap, fast and effective way to not have to pull fuses to get your car to start. I have drove like this for years in my car and I am sure quite a few have done this as well since i followed their advice and these are not my write-ups. I thought my problem was due to low compression possibly, but sadly it was not. So yeah maybe he can just hold the pedal down and crank and that will work also. Good call! He already has a temporary fix until he can get to the root of the problem like leaky injectors or rebuild if needed. At least he won't have to take so much time to start his car by pulling fuses.

 

Short of going to the dealer, how do I test compression. I've taken the car to the local dealer and they don't seem to know much about rotaries.

 

Forget it. I replied before I searched.

 

this is not shroomery.org write what you want to search in google and add rx7club to the end. best method i guess.

 

I find the ABSOLUTE opposite to be true, as I have RECENTLY (as of this spring) had my injectors sent to Injector RX in Texas, and had them cleaned & flow tested. After a few weeks of driving the car to and from work every day, and driving it on the weekends, to the point the battery was almost dead in my daily driver; the injectors in my RX-7 do NOT hold fuel pressure any more. I have to deflood it EVERY time I start it, hot or cold. Compression is good, 30k on rebuild with mazda seals. She makes great power. Compression is epic.

S4 N/A 13B. Turbo rotor housings, and now a fuel pump cut switch because my injectors are 'rebuilt' and not 'new.'

Edit: by the way, it's got an autometer Fuel Press. Gauge on it

 

I'm not a fan of injector services regardless. If I test an injector and it leaks past the pintle or doesn't flow properly it gets replaced. It's easy enough to test for Injectors leaking fuel there should be no guessing here.

I'll make an exception when it's something I know was left sitting around for a few years and is likely just gummed up and then I'll just run cleaner through them myself.

 

My findings in recent months were that used injectors are a gamble, 'remanufactured' injectors are a gamble, and injector cleaners don't do what they're advertised as being capable of. If they work for you, maybe you should divulge your injector cleansing process; because I had no luck with them.

As for Injector RX: My injectors may leak now that I had them professionally cleaned, but they are better than running dirty, clogged injectors. I couldn't afford new injectors; I'd say most people on this forum probably can't.

 

I'm agreeing with you is all I was getting at.
The injector cleaner / cleaning I refer to making an exception too is just gummy residue in an injector that was otherwise known good that had been left sitting with fuel in it. The same goo you get in the bottom of a carburetor that's sat for months or more. Over the counter cleaner or even just gasoline will usually clear injectors like this up if you have to.

Certainly not ideal and not something I would trust to a boosted vehicle. While oem new injectors are pretty overpriced aftermarket alternatives are available and not a bad way to spend money compared to crap shooting with 30 year old injectors.

 

A friend of mine ran a fuel pump kill switch which seemed to cut down a lot on the process.