Stock brake upgrade. Recommendations?
Stock brake upgrade. Recommendations?
To start it off I have an 88 n/a GXL with stock 4 piston fronts. Since I've had the car I've barely driven it 12k in 3-4 years so I never serviced the brakes other than replacing a leaking caliper and bleeding them.
Well times come for a complete overhaul. And I
Mean complete. ~2 years ago my master went out so it's fairly new.
Corksport steel braided lines 129
OR
Mazdatrix steel braided 84
New front wheel stud 9
Front caliper rebuild kit 38
Rear caliper rebuild kit 37
Front hawk pads 55
Rear hawk pads 56
Front stoptech drilled slotted rotors 159
Rear stoptech drilled slotted rotors
159
Was my list/plan and I just want
Well times come for a complete overhaul. And I
Mean complete. ~2 years ago my master went out so it's fairly new.
Corksport steel braided lines 129
OR
Mazdatrix steel braided 84
New front wheel stud 9
Front caliper rebuild kit 38
Rear caliper rebuild kit 37
Front hawk pads 55
Rear hawk pads 56
Front stoptech drilled slotted rotors 159
Rear stoptech drilled slotted rotors
159
Was my list/plan and I just want
Stupid iPhone I didn't finish typing up
I just want to get some opinions. Where are good sites to order parts from? What are good brands
I need to rebuild all calipers because I'm sure a couple pistons have seized by now. Sandblast and powder coat the fronts. Replace all 4 rotors. Install new more aggressive pads and then SS brake lines. I have high HP plans for this car in the future and before going along with that I want to be comfortable with the cars braking ability. Is a BBK really necessary
I just want to get some opinions. Where are good sites to order parts from? What are good brands
I need to rebuild all calipers because I'm sure a couple pistons have seized by now. Sandblast and powder coat the fronts. Replace all 4 rotors. Install new more aggressive pads and then SS brake lines. I have high HP plans for this car in the future and before going along with that I want to be comfortable with the cars braking ability. Is a BBK really necessary
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
If you go BBK you are looking at costs that may be more than what the average FC is actually worth!
Have you looked at a Master cylinder Brace?(levelzero sells them here in the vendor section)
Have you looked at a Master cylinder Brace?(levelzero sells them here in the vendor section)
Before going nuts with bigger rotors/calipers, you can easily upgrade the booster and master cylinder to great effect.
Although the Mazda 929 w/ 1" MC bore is the forum favorite, I've had equally good results with booster/MC combos from Nissan (some of which have integrated prop valves) and Honda (what I'm currently running).
Even better IMO, is the 1 1/16" setup from a Subaru.
Although the Mazda 929 w/ 1" MC bore is the forum favorite, I've had equally good results with booster/MC combos from Nissan (some of which have integrated prop valves) and Honda (what I'm currently running).
Even better IMO, is the 1 1/16" setup from a Subaru.
Yeah, getting wider tires is a good brake upgrade 
tirerack.com is a good place to go for brake stuff. don't bother with most SS lines, they're just rebranded and possibly inferior quality. get some Goodridge brake lines, they're nice and high quality DOT legal lines.
don't bother with drilled and slotted rotors, it doesn't do anything except make pads wear faster and rotors crack easier.
Get some nice brake fluid, that'll help some too. Most people use ATE super blue.
Clocker, do any of the larger BMCs you've found have 3 outlets? or would you have to make a t fitting for non-abs lines?

tirerack.com is a good place to go for brake stuff. don't bother with most SS lines, they're just rebranded and possibly inferior quality. get some Goodridge brake lines, they're nice and high quality DOT legal lines.
don't bother with drilled and slotted rotors, it doesn't do anything except make pads wear faster and rotors crack easier.
Get some nice brake fluid, that'll help some too. Most people use ATE super blue.
Clocker, do any of the larger BMCs you've found have 3 outlets? or would you have to make a t fitting for non-abs lines?
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This is why I love this forum, constant extremely helpful advice. Thanks guys!
After I finish up everything else I want to see how firm the pedal feels and go from there about whether or not I want to upgrade the bmc
After I finish up everything else I want to see how firm the pedal feels and go from there about whether or not I want to upgrade the bmc
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 30
From: And the horse he rode in on...
You can get a rebuilt 4 pot caliper for $44 at orielly's, autozone. About the same at Rockauto, but you have to deal with shipping a core.
I wouldn't rebuild a caliper for the $ difference. That's just me.
Good Luck.
I wouldn't rebuild a caliper for the $ difference. That's just me.
Good Luck.
I usually just do a caliper swap out from NAPA. Very cheap. The only issue would be wanting to powder coat them, then I would go through them myself.
2nd on the Goodridge lines and good fluid. You will be suprised what good pads will do for pedal feel. Stock type rotors are fine, they haul EP race cars down from 150mph at Daytona all day long with proper cooling.
2nd on the Goodridge lines and good fluid. You will be suprised what good pads will do for pedal feel. Stock type rotors are fine, they haul EP race cars down from 150mph at Daytona all day long with proper cooling.
I usually just do a caliper swap out from NAPA. Very cheap. The only issue would be wanting to powder coat them, then I would go through them myself.
2nd on the Goodridge lines and good fluid. You will be suprised what good pads will do for pedal feel. Stock type rotors are fine, they haul EP race cars down from 150mph at Daytona all day long with proper cooling.
2nd on the Goodridge lines and good fluid. You will be suprised what good pads will do for pedal feel. Stock type rotors are fine, they haul EP race cars down from 150mph at Daytona all day long with proper cooling.
Hmm ill check them out
Well I'm running 205s so running a wider and better tire would help. But at this point I can't even lock up my brakes.
If he can't lock the brakes but has a hard pedal, he might also have a bad booster or check valve.
Even the base model single piston calipers can lock the wheels (albeit maybe only once...).
Even the base model single piston calipers can lock the wheels (albeit maybe only once...).
Before the hurricane I could lock up my brakes and now my pedal has to go all the way to the floor to actually stop so I tried bleeding thinking some water may have gotten into the lines but it didn't help.
I think it's just time to redo all the brakes.... In my other thread I explained what it went through. There's no shiny surface on my rotors anymore.
Brake fluid has a real affinity for water, it's constantly absorbing it from the air in the reservoir.
Whether that's a factor in your particular case is unknown.
i'm going to be doing my brakes pretty soon and it was actually your thread (and a couple PMs with j9fd3s) that got me thinking about NOT going with either 929 or Rx-8 parts.
I'm terrible about finding out what cars I pillage at the junkyard, usually focused only on the part I'm seeking.
I think the big Subie MC comes on early 90's Legacies.
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thank you much!
