--> 1990 GX n/a

ok im having some major overheating problems. im constantly having to fill my rad with coolant, because it is all jsut being thrown up via the overflow.

the clutch on my fan is not engaging, so I know its not cooling correctly, but im jsut wondering if part of the problem could be the radiator? could it be clogged or something? I mean, today on my way home from work I started losing coolant again. I pop the hood, and the engine is barely even warm. so should I try swapping the rad from my s4 into my new s5?

Aswell, until I can get my hands on an efan im going to try to make it so the fan is always engaged so it cools properly. the fan I have isnt the stock one, it seems to be a replacement. it has a coil on the back instead of a tab like I think it should have. Is there anything I can do to make the fan always be on? like... filling the coil with JB weld or something?

thanks guys

 

when you park the car do you see drops of fluid on the concrete under the car?


might be coolant seal

 

Sounds like air is getting into the system and the coolant isn't being pressurized. Have you tried a new rad cap? How 'bout replacing the o-ring on the extension piece that holds the rad cap?

 

johnny. couldnt that either be just getting a new cap or checking the rubber hoses to see if there is a leak?

 

the only place coolant is coming from is the overflow. I will go out and buy two new rad caps.

how do I bleed the air out of the system?

aswell,, does anyone have info on making the fan always on?

 

How hot does the car get? Sounds very similer to my symptoms when I had a blown coolant seal. You can do the quick coolant seal test. Take the filler neck cap off... pull the EGI Comp (or its S5 equivilient, I can't remember if they are different from S4's) have a friend turn the car over. While it's tunring over, look into the filler neck for a constant stream of air bubbles coming up. If you see a bunch of little bubbles, a coolant seal(s) is fried.

 

Don't mean to hikack, but I'm also having a simlar problem. Got a new rad cap and checked for leaks. Loose about 1/4 of a gal of water in a week or so. Went on a cayon run this weekend and temps shot up around 215.. I let her cool down and she was missing about 1/2 a gal of water. Doesn't seem to be a coolant seal. No smoke in the morning, I can run it with out the cap and no water shoots out like crazy. It just seems to throw out the coolant from the overflow when hot till she starts to over heat.

What simptons does a cloged/corred rad give? What about a bad water pump?

 

keep me informed on what you did to fix it

 

A clogged rad would just make it overheat/ run warmer than normal especially on the highway. You can feel the radiator for cold spots, determining a clog. My stock rad lasted until 122,xxx miles before it clogged.

*I think* a bad water pump would seep coolant out of the weep hole. I'm not 100% because this is one of the few problems I have yet to encounter first hand.

 

ok well it turns out I was misssing a screw on the filler neck. iove installed another, tightened the assembly down, and installed 2 new rad caps. I jsut drove home from the car parts store and didnt seem to loose much, if any coolant.

now its jsut to fix the fan problem! what do I do to make it so its always on

 

You don't want it always on... you only want it on when you are driving at less than 40 MPH and the engine coolant is at, at least 180F.

 

Icemark: Is there a good way to test the stock fan? I think mine isn't working properly. I tryed searching but only thing I came up with was try to grab it while it running over 180*.. and that just doesn't sound smart at all..

 

with the engine warm, there should be more resistance in turning the fan by hand, than if the engine is cold

 

I know that icemark. the clutch is broken. im getting an e-fan asap, this was jsut a temporary solution. is there any way I can do it?

 

My K-9 senses pick up that is your daily driver. Yes or no? Anyway, similiar situation, but with a hydraulic oil temp problem on our drilling equipment. Temporarily, while waiting for new fan, purchased at GRAND AUTO, NAPA, BWS, KRAGEN, whatever parts house, a simple 12 volt automotive "fan". Customized mounting brackets, zip ties and duct tape, ran wiring from + and - terminals of battery, with inline fuse, and on/off toggle switch, total down time, 1 hour. Drill rental price for our equipment, 275/hr 4 hr minimum. Total cost of fan, wiring, toggle, in-line fuse, less that 100$. My point, rotary rebuild, bank, temporary fix, priceless. Or, park it. Just the DOGS 100 bucks worth.

PEACE RUF RUF RUF

 

You know what...
Before you try and go chasing down this more...

Pull the spark plugs and can you take a digital picture of them?


-Ted

 

RETed, its 1:15 am on the Island, get some sleep. hehehe. Nice thought on the plugs, I've got a thought. Yes, it does hurt. But could the coolant temp sensor be shot, sending error to computer? H2o 212 F + = eminent disaster.

PEACE- THE DOG

 

Yep, 01:15 which makes it another 6.5 hours till I get off of work...after getting off my other job (first 8 hours) about an hour ago.
This is why you see a barrage of posts by me at this time of night, cause this is what I do to stay awake between two full time jobs.


-Ted

 

Two full time jobs? and your this rotary intelligent? Put me on the payroll! I'll get the ticket to the Island, cause every company needs a good guard DOG. hehehehe. BTTTAH (back to the task at hand) could the coolant temp sensor have any affect on his problem?

PEACE only one RUF

 

Hmmm...which coolant temp sensor?
The main one that signals back to the stock ECU...I doubt it.
There is one sensor for the stock electric fan, but it's a piece of ****.

So in summary, I doubt it's some kinda coolant sensor...


-Ted

 

Good answer. I get more information from throwing "possibilites" out and responses from others, so just trying to help. But seriously, do what it takes to solve this issue, cause the consequences aren't worth the risks. Do the DOG fix for now, 100 bucks is nothing to us "must have tons of cash to love these rotaries so much" group of individuals.

Good luck, PEACE RUF RUF RUF

 

thanks jono

 

Scratch that...water pump just went out.

 

ok well that bolt and two new rad caps seem to have solved the problem of me spewing coolant.

now once again im back to the fact that my fan is not engaging its clutch and spinning up. the engine gets too hot, then the idle goes all screwy, and performance starts to drop steeply. we all know rotaries dont like it warm.

now I KNOW the stock fan should not be engaged when youre moving at a fair pace, and I understand that completely, but my question is, would it hurt anything severly to have it always on? at least until I can get an e-fan? and if it would be ok, what can I do exactly to make it always on? it is a replacement fan, it has the coil type thing on it instead of the 'tab' found on most rx7s