2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

still over heating at cruse

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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 04:45 PM
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From: seattle wa
still over heating at cruse

the problem started after my greddy fmic
it only happens at cruse @ 60 mph so its not the fan
radiator has been flow tested
brand new mazda thurmastat
plenty of coolant
no belly pan


installed a belly pan today
i can now crust at 60 but over heats at 70 now so this is obviously an aif flow problem
any ideas on how to get more air through the rad?
do you think i have some turbulance coming through the hood scoop that is causing improper rad flow.
the rad is a new performance radiator (the cactus brand just an oe aftermarket)
maby i will have to get a flowdyne, but im not pushing enough hp to justify one
thanks
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 05:09 PM
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I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
 
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From: bay area
How do you know you're overheating? Aftermarket gauge?

The hood scoop has nothing to do with it. How much of your bumper did you cut out? If you are going to upgrade you rad go for a koyo. It's much cheaper than a fluidyne and can keep up with the cooling on my car which also has a greddy vspl.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 05:48 PM
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i donot have an aftermarket temp gauge but i can wach the stock one rise to almost half way and then the cooling fan light comes on. under 60 and at idle it stays at 1/4
i only cut out the grill portion of the bumper
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 06:16 PM
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If I were you I'd cut much of the the bumper before dumping a few hundred on an aftermarket rad. Even with an aftermarket rad like a koyo it wont be much use it there isnt enough surface area for air to hit the cooling fins.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 07:05 PM
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i know i should cut the bumper more but i just got the car painted and cutting the bumper anymore would be RX7 molestation
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
I'd say bad water pump or clogged up coolant passages in the engine, or stuck closed oil cooler thermo valve.

Last edited by Icemark; Apr 1, 2005 at 07:23 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 07:23 PM
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Similar thread as another, same answer, is all the air coming in the grill forced to go through the rad to get out? Ducting may be your problem, this can make a huge difference.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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From: seattle wa
icemark please elaborate (oil cooler valve)
water pump is good
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 01:07 AM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by turbine
icemark please elaborate (oil cooler valve)
water pump is good
Easy to check... is the oil cooler core getting warm/hot when driving at highway speeds. If it is, then the oil cooler thermo valve is okay. It works like a thermostat for the oil cooler.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 01:17 AM
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From: seattle wa
where is the valve located?
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:44 AM
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It's in the cooler
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 10:24 AM
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is this somthing i can clean or replace. or should i just get a whole new cooler
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 10:41 AM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by turbine
is this somthing i can clean or replace. or should i just get a whole new cooler
You should see if the oil cooler is getting warm/hot when you are driving before you do anything.

If you just want to throw away some money you can send it to me instead of just replacing parts weither or not they are bad.

So is the OIL COOLER GETTING WARM WHILE DRIVING??? drive around for 10 minutes, stick your hand in there and feel it.
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