wmtil

the car is an 87 NA. I have already removed the AWS sensor but it still revs to around 4000 rpm's when started. This is a video i just made about it to give everyone a better idea of what i am talking about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8dXsF7H0Ls

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

You mean the solenoid? You removed the solenoid? Did you cap the vacuum lines?

wmtil

yeah sorry i removed the solenoid. I did not cap off the lines, but i connected the hose straight from one side to another. Basically i just removed the solenoid and connected the hose like it was never there. Tomorrow morning i will try capping off both separately to see what happens.

MadScience_7

Bypassing the solenoid like you have it means that essentially the AWS is now always on. It's now a big bypass around the throttle.

wmtil

That makes since. I will try capping them off separately and post the results tomorrow.

wmtil

ok well i removed the single hose and capped both ends that it was connected to. It doesnt rev to 4000 and stay anymore, but now it starts up goes to 3000 then slowly goes down until it dies. Could i still have a vacuum leak? Any ideas?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Try starting in 1st gear. Still goes to 3,000RPM?

wmtil

Yeah it still revs to 3000 for a few seconds then completely dies. I can keep it running if i rev it though.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The sensor which tells the ECU when to initiate the high rev start is located at the bottom of the radiator. Did you disconnect these two wires or jumper them together and so on?

wmtil

No i did not. I will search for how to do that though. thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I was just asking if you did anything to these wires as opposed to how to do anything. Don't jumper the wires together or the ECU will interpret that as a signal to initiate the high rev to 3000 rpm all the time. Leaving them connected to the sensor will leave the decision to the sensor to initiate or not and disconnecting both wires from sensor and taping them off turns off the signal completely.

wmtil

Oh i see. I will try disconnecting it and taping it off tomorrow.

wmtil

well im not exactly sure what connection is the right one. Are there any pictures of this? I didnt see any in the FSM.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The sensor is on the driver side of the radiator toward the bottom and faces towards the firewall. It has two wires connected to it where one wire comes off at a time.

wmtil

I think i know which one you are talking about. I hope that fixes my problem. This is driving me crazy!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

You could have saved yourself some time and just unplugged the AWS. But keep in mind that it only plays a small role in the 3k RPM startup. The BAC is the other air delivery component, but don't go removing it. That temp switch at the bottom of the radiator can be the work-around you're looking for, but it's not going to do a thing for the vacuum/metered air leak you likely created. If the engine revs up then stalls, it's a good bet you have a leak. Check the areas you messed with; especially whatever you capped off. The big black intake duct also likes to leak at the connection points.

wmtil

I did disconnect the AWS. I cannot find any vacuum leaks yet but i guess i will keep looking. This is so frustrating!

HAILERS2

Before you removed the air bypass solenoid..........would the car idle once it was fully warmed up?

If the RX is started with the clutch in and the shifter in gear..........there should be NO fast idle upon startup at all. So it does sound a bit like there is an opening in the intake somewhere. Like maybe the half inch hose on the bottom of the large black intake duct just prior to the throttle body?? The one that is on the bottom of that black duct and can swivel around a bit?

wmtil

Well i unplugged the sensor that satch was talking about with no change. I have tried starting in gear and that doesnt do anything either. The car will not idle at all. It starts up revs to 3000 rpm then after about ten seconds it just dies. I can keep it alive by revving it a little bit but if i leave it alone and dont press the accelerator every now and then it dies. I have thoroughly checked for vacuum leaks and cannot find any. Could i have a bigger problem here?

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

wmtil, just wanted to know if you figured anything out? my car is doing the same thing, i also removed the cold start assist. its rather frustrating

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

If you keep it alive till it warms up will it them idle on its own?

jlaudio982

You still have a large vacuum leak somewhere. One solution to finding all your leaks would be to pressure test the entire induction system. You can make a pressure tester with plumbing parts from home depot.

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

on mine if i get it warmed up it will idle but surges between 1,000 and 1,500.
i also just did a vacuum test and it is only pulling 5psi. i was thinking it should be around 15, is that correct?

MadScience_7

Check your units, vacuum can't be over 14.7PSI or you're doing something very interesting.

wmtil

Sorry for the late update but here is what i did to fix it.

I removed all of the emissions control system and blocked off all vacuum hoses. I also made custom aluminum plates to block off certain areas. I followed these instructions to get everything done.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html

These are really good instructions btw so if anyone plans on doing it, this is a must have.

Now i have just found out that i have a bad AFM (i must have tested it wrong the first two times) but with it unplugged she will start right up and idle perfectly. A new one is on the way so hopefully she will be drivable within the week.