Stereo problems, HELP please!
#1
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Stereo problems, HELP please!
Ok, I am trying to re-install my stereo and am having some problems figguring out which wires connect to what?!
I have a T2, which came with factory cd/tape (i think) and have the wires I need narrowed down, but can't figgure out which are what?
I used a wire diagram, https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=72202
And still can't get it to work right....I had it working before but it was a few months ago and I had to take it out till now.
I have a Blue/Red, Red/Black, and Blue/White from the car, and a solid Black, Red, and Yellow from my deck.
Do I have the right wires? and if so, which connect to which? Normally this is a painless and easy install, but the moron who had the car before me cut out the harness and then the 50 billion wires from the stock system is just more pains...
Thanks in advance!!!
- Jason
I have a T2, which came with factory cd/tape (i think) and have the wires I need narrowed down, but can't figgure out which are what?
I used a wire diagram, https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=72202
And still can't get it to work right....I had it working before but it was a few months ago and I had to take it out till now.
I have a Blue/Red, Red/Black, and Blue/White from the car, and a solid Black, Red, and Yellow from my deck.
Do I have the right wires? and if so, which connect to which? Normally this is a painless and easy install, but the moron who had the car before me cut out the harness and then the 50 billion wires from the stock system is just more pains...
Thanks in advance!!!
- Jason
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Blue/wht goes to the Red wire of the aftermarket stereo
Blue/red goes to the yellow wire of the aftermarket stereo.
Red/blk goes to the lumination input lead of the aftermarket stereo (if the aftermarket deck has one). do not use the factory RED/BLACK for anything else or you could damage the interior lighting circuit
Black of the aftermarket stereo goes to ground. I recommend the 10mm or 12mm bolt behind the driver side center consol access panel (the panel next to your right knee when sitting in the drivers or left seat in the car). You can unscrew the single #8 screw for access and to remove the panel.
Blue/red goes to the yellow wire of the aftermarket stereo.
Red/blk goes to the lumination input lead of the aftermarket stereo (if the aftermarket deck has one). do not use the factory RED/BLACK for anything else or you could damage the interior lighting circuit
Black of the aftermarket stereo goes to ground. I recommend the 10mm or 12mm bolt behind the driver side center consol access panel (the panel next to your right knee when sitting in the drivers or left seat in the car). You can unscrew the single #8 screw for access and to remove the panel.
#3
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I swear I tried that......could be wrong though.
I'll try it on my lunch break I did have a blown fuse, far left side of the fuse box, lower part it was a #20...is that stereo related?
All my past cars had a ground wire from the factory, also had more "typical" factory wire colors....ie: red = red, yellow = yellow, etc.... damn Mazda
- Jason
I'll try it on my lunch break I did have a blown fuse, far left side of the fuse box, lower part it was a #20...is that stereo related?
All my past cars had a ground wire from the factory, also had more "typical" factory wire colors....ie: red = red, yellow = yellow, etc.... damn Mazda
- Jason
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by SpYdEr
All my past cars had a ground wire from the factory, also had more "typical" factory wire colors....ie: red = red, yellow = yellow, etc.... damn Mazda
- Jason
All my past cars had a ground wire from the factory, also had more "typical" factory wire colors....ie: red = red, yellow = yellow, etc.... damn Mazda
- Jason
The only thing close is GM regularly and Toyota and Mazda occasionally use black as ground.
*edit
And some car manufactures use solid red as a constant 12 volt source (most german and again GM), but aftermarket radios again use red as switched, not constant.
end edit*
A blown fuse will make it so the stereo dosen't work. It is common to blow the Blue/red wire if you don't know what you are doing exactly.
It sounds like you might be in over your head. I highly recommend that you have a professional install your stereo and help prevent your radio or car from being damaged if you have not had much experience installing before.
Last edited by Icemark; 04-23-02 at 01:05 PM.
#6
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Yeah, what Ted said. A 15yo deck is a waste of time, and won't perform as well as even the cheapest namebrand decks available today.
Can you elaborate on that a little? I'm just curious.
Originally posted by Icemark
Red/blk goes to the lumination input lead of the aftermarket stereo (if the aftermarket deck has one). Do not use the factory RED/BLACK for anything else or you could damage the interior lighting circuit
Red/blk goes to the lumination input lead of the aftermarket stereo (if the aftermarket deck has one). Do not use the factory RED/BLACK for anything else or you could damage the interior lighting circuit
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
The red/black is the positive parking light dimmer circuit output from the dimmer, built into the light switch.
It’s very common to see (shall we conservatively say: Less experienced radio installers) hook up this wire to the aftermarket radio's ground wire.
With the antenna cable plugged in and the parking lights turned on, this should directly short out the wire and blow the fuse, but if the antenna does not have a good ground at the mast, there often is just enough resistance to overheat and burn out the switch without blowing the fuse.
Or, the less experienced installer turns on the radio without the lights being on. This back feeds the parking lights through the dimmer. Often then the dimmer's internal coils or varister circuit then overheats and burns up.
But again if the antenna ground is weak, and the dimmer circuit is used the radio could also suffer from low voltage. Since no aftermarket radio manufacture designs low voltage protection circuits in the radio, once the voltage drops under 5 volts the processors (like the tuner, DC to AC power supply, DC to DC power supply, and CD controller) can take a dump if the low voltage is left for a sizable time.
It’s very common to see (shall we conservatively say: Less experienced radio installers) hook up this wire to the aftermarket radio's ground wire.
With the antenna cable plugged in and the parking lights turned on, this should directly short out the wire and blow the fuse, but if the antenna does not have a good ground at the mast, there often is just enough resistance to overheat and burn out the switch without blowing the fuse.
Or, the less experienced installer turns on the radio without the lights being on. This back feeds the parking lights through the dimmer. Often then the dimmer's internal coils or varister circuit then overheats and burns up.
But again if the antenna ground is weak, and the dimmer circuit is used the radio could also suffer from low voltage. Since no aftermarket radio manufacture designs low voltage protection circuits in the radio, once the voltage drops under 5 volts the processors (like the tuner, DC to AC power supply, DC to DC power supply, and CD controller) can take a dump if the low voltage is left for a sizable time.
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