Starts and dies after about 3 or 4 seconds
12-30-05, 12:53 PM
#1
Drive.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Washington, North Carolina
Posts: 1,676
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Starts and dies after about 3 or 4 seconds
Ok, first a rundown on the car. Just rebuilt and streetported.
88 TII
All emissions removed and blocked off.
full 3" rb exhaust
true cai
safc
walbro 255
750cc secondaries
i think that's the most important stuff.
ANYWAY....car is put back together from the rebuild...and it runs for several days. It was having a problem with loss of power at 3800 rpm to start with, but made good power up till 3800rpm. Well, the car died after a few days (battery/alternator problem). Fix that, car still runs with the 3800rpm problem. Well shut car off, come to start it the next day and it starts...runs for 3 or 4 seconds then dies....can't keep it running giving it gas...it just dies after a few seconds of starting. Pulled the intakes off and there's no vac leaks. Ran a straight line off the battery...and fuel pump is coming on. The afm seems to be working fine. SO...what else should be checked. Again...car starts up immediately...no problems...but dies after a few seconds. What else should be checked? Is there a way to test the ecu? Will the car start if the ecu isn't working properly? I have an NA ecu laying around. Can that be used to start a 88tII? Just to see if it'll hold an idle? Give me some opinions.
88 TII
All emissions removed and blocked off.
full 3" rb exhaust
true cai
safc
walbro 255
750cc secondaries
i think that's the most important stuff.
ANYWAY....car is put back together from the rebuild...and it runs for several days. It was having a problem with loss of power at 3800 rpm to start with, but made good power up till 3800rpm. Well, the car died after a few days (battery/alternator problem). Fix that, car still runs with the 3800rpm problem. Well shut car off, come to start it the next day and it starts...runs for 3 or 4 seconds then dies....can't keep it running giving it gas...it just dies after a few seconds of starting. Pulled the intakes off and there's no vac leaks. Ran a straight line off the battery...and fuel pump is coming on. The afm seems to be working fine. SO...what else should be checked. Again...car starts up immediately...no problems...but dies after a few seconds. What else should be checked? Is there a way to test the ecu? Will the car start if the ecu isn't working properly? I have an NA ecu laying around. Can that be used to start a 88tII? Just to see if it'll hold an idle? Give me some opinions.
12-30-05, 01:10 PM
#4
Passing life by
Sounds like you have a pore grounding syste. And a fuel issues normaly chalked up to the AFM. The NA ECU will run the car just fine with your setup, but I would retard the timing around 7deg on the CAS just to keep me happy.
The AFM fuel pump switch is wierd, I have taken mine off to paint it put it back on and the internal wires inside for the pump were all bent out of shape and some other crap. HAILERS has a few posts you can search on of the AFM taken apart and diagramed out. This will help if you feel it is neccisary to take the AFM apart.
The AFM fuel pump switch is wierd, I have taken mine off to paint it put it back on and the internal wires inside for the pump were all bent out of shape and some other crap. HAILERS has a few posts you can search on of the AFM taken apart and diagramed out. This will help if you feel it is neccisary to take the AFM apart.
Trending Topics
12-30-05, 04:57 PM
#12
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Probably a large vacuum leak like the brake booster line off the intake. Especially since the engine starts all the time and just won't keep running.
There's an outside chance you knocked the water thermo sensors plug off. That will give you symptoms like you have IF the engine/water is cold. OUtside chance.
There's an outside chance you knocked the water thermo sensors plug off. That will give you symptoms like you have IF the engine/water is cold. OUtside chance.
12-30-05, 06:49 PM
#13
ThatRotaryGuy
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Probably a large vacuum leak like the brake booster line off the intake. Especially since the engine starts all the time and just won't keep running.
There's an outside chance you knocked the water thermo sensors plug off. That will give you symptoms like you have IF the engine/water is cold. OUtside chance.
There's an outside chance you knocked the water thermo sensors plug off. That will give you symptoms like you have IF the engine/water is cold. OUtside chance.
12-31-05, 08:36 AM
#14
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't know if the T2 works the same way as a n/a (dynamic chamber wise) But On my N/A I had the same problem. It will shut off after a few seconds. I checked every line, did every check possible for leaks except one thing. I never worked on a turbo so Dont bash me for posting this, but On the dynamic chambers on the left side when it connects to the Intake hose, There are two small bolts holding it tight with the dynamic chambers. One of them was loose. and it caused my motor to shut off. I doubt it is your problem since a turbo motor looks way differnt from pictures but if its the same on that part, see if that has loose bolts.
12-31-05, 08:41 AM
#15
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
*""I had this problem.""* Also you have a 3800rpm hessitation ? You just said you got a upgraded Exhaust system ? I was told on this forum by a few people that the s4's use backpressure to open up the 5th/6th ports. Did you eliminate that piping that comes off a s4 cat that runs to the back of the motor ? That could be a factor in your problem with the hessitation maybe ?
P.S I put a brand new exhaust system on my N/A. The whole piping was brand new including a new cat. it was a universal cat. I had the piping that came from the cat to the back of the motor connected, new hoses, I still had my hessitation. I got a little fustrated that yesterday I switched my whole exhaust system from my FC from my other one I have at my Cousins auto shop, This one doesnt have a cat but has the line that comes from the cat welded on the pip. My hessitation went away, so I came to the conclusion that my Cat was clogged. So the point im trying to make is that the universal cat clogged up my system and caused the car to hessitate. I just trying to throw a few ideas in your head to what could hopefully help you out. I understand that you have a Turbo2 and I have a n/a but maybe this information could help you
P.S I put a brand new exhaust system on my N/A. The whole piping was brand new including a new cat. it was a universal cat. I had the piping that came from the cat to the back of the motor connected, new hoses, I still had my hessitation. I got a little fustrated that yesterday I switched my whole exhaust system from my FC from my other one I have at my Cousins auto shop, This one doesnt have a cat but has the line that comes from the cat welded on the pip. My hessitation went away, so I came to the conclusion that my Cat was clogged. So the point im trying to make is that the universal cat clogged up my system and caused the car to hessitate. I just trying to throw a few ideas in your head to what could hopefully help you out. I understand that you have a Turbo2 and I have a n/a but maybe this information could help you
Last edited by CoRDiTe; 12-31-05 at 08:48 AM.
12-31-05, 09:06 AM
#16
The 3800 rpm hesitation is caused by the secondary injectors not coming on exactly when they should, not by the aux ports not opening. All the aux ports not opening does is lower the output a little.
First of all, did your car "hesitate" at 3800, or did it just not run at all? Because if it didn't run then theres a problem with the secondaries - either they are messed up or not getting the signal to come on. An as for the 3-4 seconds it runs, does it sound okay like its running smooth then just cut off, or does it sound weird or uneven?
First of all, did your car "hesitate" at 3800, or did it just not run at all? Because if it didn't run then theres a problem with the secondaries - either they are messed up or not getting the signal to come on. An as for the 3-4 seconds it runs, does it sound okay like its running smooth then just cut off, or does it sound weird or uneven?
12-31-05, 12:39 PM
#17
Drive.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Washington, North Carolina
Posts: 1,676
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
it was likt hitting a wall at 3800...you could ease into the gas and it would go past 3800, but if you got on it...it would just fall on it's face. I "think" that has been fixed...the clip on the secondaries was really loose (found that out looking for this new problem). Can't test to see if that's fixed tho until I get the car running again...ha.
12-31-05, 04:42 PM
#18
Passing life by
Originally Posted by Sideways7
The 3800 rpm hesitation is caused by the secondary injectors not coming on exactly when they should, not by the aux ports not opening. All the aux ports not opening does is lower the output a little.
First of all, did your car "hesitate" at 3800, or did it just not run at all? Because if it didn't run then theres a problem with the secondaries - either they are messed up or not getting the signal to come on. An as for the 3-4 seconds it runs, does it sound okay like its running smooth then just cut off, or does it sound weird or uneven?
First of all, did your car "hesitate" at 3800, or did it just not run at all? Because if it didn't run then theres a problem with the secondaries - either they are messed up or not getting the signal to come on. An as for the 3-4 seconds it runs, does it sound okay like its running smooth then just cut off, or does it sound weird or uneven?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
