I searched already, good info but no nothing.


The thing is I just finished installing the TII engine into my 1989 N/A. New battery, spark plugs,walborro fuel pump, oil, water coolant and gas filter.

The car starts for aprox 2 seconds and dies like if fuel got cut of. every single time, it satarts goes to 3000 rpm down 1000 and dies.

I have cheked the suggested water thermosensor, air temp sensor on engine and BAC valve. I have switched between the N/A AFM and the TII AFM to no avail.

I checked the Fuel pump and serro resistence, then I cheked the voltage goin to the fuel pump and it was 5.4 when key is on and 4.7 when starter is goin. Battery voltage is 12.10.

I think it's the fuel pump voltage. What should it be?


Any help highly apreciated even if suggested to search again, i will.

 

check for a vacum leak. make sure every hose is on tight and that there are no hoses left off. of if you blocked off a vacum hoses spot with a cap make sure the cap is still there and there isnt a hole in it

 

fuel pump should be 0v with key on and 12v while starting.

 

That's what I'd check first. With the ignition on and the engine off there should be no voltage at the pump. As soon as the key is turned to Start and while cranking it should have 12V. When you release the key back to the Ignition position it should stay at 12V. If the voltage drops to zero after the engine stalls it's not a fuel pump voltage problem. If the voltage drops to zero as soon as you release the key, it's problem with the circuit-opening relay or the ECU's signal to it.

 

Why would i get 5.4 volts whith the ignition on. I have two N374 ecus and they bouth do the same. Ill have to check my wirering.


Thanks for the suggestions. I will check the wires coming from the ecu and see what wappens.

 

O.k I unpluged the ECU and still get 5.4 at the pump, then the fuel pump relay and still 5.4 at the pump, now the circuit-opening relay and still 5.4.

so the ECU, fuel pump relay and the circuit-opening relay are unpluged and still 5.4 what gives.

turns out i wasn't cheking right. the 5.4 is invalid ill have to check it again tumorrow.dammit

Now before we go on I blew the main fuse (100amp) two times once the battery was in backwards ant the second was when installing the fuse, I didn't disconect the battery and my tool tuched the chassis and the fuse nut. My headlight switch got bustead as far as i know that's it, yet there seams to be something more.

 

OK fuel pump is O.k It gets 0 volts when ignition on and 12 when cranking.

 

I don't see any vaccume lines off. Do they need to be berry tight.

 

 

I was cheking the volts of the AFM on the ecu with the ignition on and it was abnormal way lower .9 instead of 4.0v. that's with the engine at room temp.

 

Does the Turbo boost controller selonoid have to make a sound when the ignition switch is on ( no engine running), mine makes a cliking noise.


I disconnected the AFM (with the ignition on) and disconnected the AFM the testead for volts on the terminals and one had 3.5v and one other 5.3v the others 0v, so when i unplugged it the turbo boost selonoid turned of and a cliking sound was heard from the BAC valve. those this make sence.


Thanks for the help so far.

 

O.k so the problem was that the wire leading from the ECU to the circuit opening relay is bad(it wont complete the circuit) somewhere in the dash. So, I just ran a new wire to the engine wire harness, reset the ecu and walla it runs.


THanks for your help NZconvertible.