Starting problem, no NOT a flooding thing. . .
#1
Starting problem, no NOT a flooding thing. . .
This is something that has sort of developed over time and finally just called it quits the other day.
The car used to click a couple times before itd actually turn the starter. Then itd crank slow sometimes and berely ctach. Now you can turn the key to crank all you want and nothing happens, clutch pressed in, car in neutral. (Car is an 86 GXL)
Battery is Great, and a believe the starter to be good as well, so i dont get it. Everything else works as it should, fuel pump, lights, radio are all good. Im not good at electrical problems, my GF (fellow RX7 owner and UTI grad) seems to think its the Neutral Safety Switch, i dont doubt it but i'm gonna get all the opinions an speculations i can. Let me know what you think, this car is my Daily Driver, and my other Fc is unregistered and will not be able to pass somg so driving it arond is a no no
The car used to click a couple times before itd actually turn the starter. Then itd crank slow sometimes and berely ctach. Now you can turn the key to crank all you want and nothing happens, clutch pressed in, car in neutral. (Car is an 86 GXL)
Battery is Great, and a believe the starter to be good as well, so i dont get it. Everything else works as it should, fuel pump, lights, radio are all good. Im not good at electrical problems, my GF (fellow RX7 owner and UTI grad) seems to think its the Neutral Safety Switch, i dont doubt it but i'm gonna get all the opinions an speculations i can. Let me know what you think, this car is my Daily Driver, and my other Fc is unregistered and will not be able to pass somg so driving it arond is a no no
Last edited by staticguitar313; 12-16-05 at 03:45 AM.
#2
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I have the same problem & plan to fix it this weekend.
I also suspect the clutch interlock switch.
If contact cleaner dosen't help, I will probably just shunt it.
I have the FSM wiring diagram pdf's at the link in my sig.
I also suspect the clutch interlock switch.
If contact cleaner dosen't help, I will probably just shunt it.
I have the FSM wiring diagram pdf's at the link in my sig.
#4
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True - mine gives a single click, but after a few key turns, it cranks at full speed.
I did put in a fresh starter when I installed the rebuild.
With slow cranking, you're looking at battery/cables/starter..
I did put in a fresh starter when I installed the rebuild.
With slow cranking, you're looking at battery/cables/starter..
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#9
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I'd start with the cheaper/easier stuff.
Take the battery in for a free load test.
Feel the primary cables & cable clamps for any warm spots after trying to crank it.
Warm = resistance = weak connection.
Take the battery in for a free load test.
Feel the primary cables & cable clamps for any warm spots after trying to crank it.
Warm = resistance = weak connection.
#10
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I went through 3 starters chasing the same problem you're having.
Click, clunk, click, clunk, click, craaaannnkk, craaaaannnk, craaank.
I got 2 bad "new" starters in a row before I finally ended up with one that wasn't a pile of crap. The first new starter tested fine on one bench, and failed miserably on another. Make sure you get a second opinion on whether or not it's bad.
Click, clunk, click, clunk, click, craaaannnkk, craaaaannnk, craaank.
I got 2 bad "new" starters in a row before I finally ended up with one that wasn't a pile of crap. The first new starter tested fine on one bench, and failed miserably on another. Make sure you get a second opinion on whether or not it's bad.
#11
Originally Posted by SureShot
I'd start with the cheaper/easier stuff.
Take the battery in for a free load test.
Feel the primary cables & cable clamps for any warm spots after trying to crank it.
Warm = resistance = weak connection.
Take the battery in for a free load test.
Feel the primary cables & cable clamps for any warm spots after trying to crank it.
Warm = resistance = weak connection.
Nothing strange about cable temps . . .
Still will not start its been 3 days now . . .
#12
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When you're under there to pull the starter, wiggle the + & - cables first, just to make sure they were both tight.
If so - then pull it.
When you install the new starter, don't forget the ground cable eyelet on the top bolt.
Good luck.
-Bill
If so - then pull it.
When you install the new starter, don't forget the ground cable eyelet on the top bolt.
Good luck.
-Bill
Last edited by SureShot; 12-16-05 at 01:17 PM.
#14
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Originally Posted by staticguitar313
Cables where tight already tried to pull it once then put it back, the top mounting bolt is really tight and i apparently dont have the right socket size.
What sucks even more is i dont have enough money for a starter right now, damn holidays.
What sucks even more is i dont have enough money for a starter right now, damn holidays.
I've seen good used ones for <$50 shipped on e-bay.
#15
mmm . . i could just pull the starter out of my black fc, the reason i'm not driving that one istead is the fact that its not registered, or insured, and its gather alot of attention running pig rich, with no rear bumper, the gas door flaps open and the brakes squeal like a dying animal.
#22
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I am having some problems with my 88 rx-7 it wont start up at all it does start but it doesnt if you know what i mean. would you be able to call me and maybe give me some ideas on what to do. my number is 425-233-1383 you can call me anytime it doesnt matter what time of day or night. I just need some help with this problem can you help me? Thanks.
My name is harold and I live in Renton, WA. i have had my rx-7 since july of this year and i have put around 9,000 miles on it from my job and home everyweek. I really need someone to talk to about what my problem is because no-one seems to know what to do.
My name is harold and I live in Renton, WA. i have had my rx-7 since july of this year and i have put around 9,000 miles on it from my job and home everyweek. I really need someone to talk to about what my problem is because no-one seems to know what to do.
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