Starting/Idling Issue(Whats this plug?)And shifter Concern
Starting/Idling Issue(Whats this plug?)And shifter Concern
88 turbo,mostly stock.
Recently had turbo removed to install new exh gaskets.Installed 3"downpipe with cat delete(stock mufflers),also cracked the turbo inlet on install so i replaced the second elbow that is supposed to be 2.5" to a 3" tube,And removed the air pump,leaving the inlet and split air outlet both exposed.
First start after having everything back together,car was idling low so i kept slight throttle applied to keep it at around 1k and afrs betwen 14.5 and up to 15 when the car stalled,as soon as i let off the throttle the car would stall on its on so assuming the idle needs adjusting Or if im facing a vaccum issue because i still have the air control valve and "rats nest" in the car. After the car stalled it wouldn't turn over again,ign has power.Should i be working on removing this avc?Ive searched and searched and i couldnt find a definte on what to remove,what to block off and how to reroute the vaccum lines.
I also noticed that this plug doesn't have a home,and i don't remember unplugging it,its right by the intake.And this ground wire on the coil pack.And finally a really awful picture of the acv and my vaccum routing(clear wire going off tee is for boost gauge)
And off topic,i replaced the shifter return spring,and installed new bushings,but for some reason the shifter still doesnt feel right,the boot on the shifter itself is ripped,but it feels like when i tighten it down fully the shifter wont even move,im not sure if im missing a piece,but i belive the s4's do not have nylon in the center hole or on the shifter itself.
Recently had turbo removed to install new exh gaskets.Installed 3"downpipe with cat delete(stock mufflers),also cracked the turbo inlet on install so i replaced the second elbow that is supposed to be 2.5" to a 3" tube,And removed the air pump,leaving the inlet and split air outlet both exposed.
First start after having everything back together,car was idling low so i kept slight throttle applied to keep it at around 1k and afrs betwen 14.5 and up to 15 when the car stalled,as soon as i let off the throttle the car would stall on its on so assuming the idle needs adjusting Or if im facing a vaccum issue because i still have the air control valve and "rats nest" in the car. After the car stalled it wouldn't turn over again,ign has power.Should i be working on removing this avc?Ive searched and searched and i couldnt find a definte on what to remove,what to block off and how to reroute the vaccum lines.
I also noticed that this plug doesn't have a home,and i don't remember unplugging it,its right by the intake.And this ground wire on the coil pack.And finally a really awful picture of the acv and my vaccum routing(clear wire going off tee is for boost gauge)
And off topic,i replaced the shifter return spring,and installed new bushings,but for some reason the shifter still doesnt feel right,the boot on the shifter itself is ripped,but it feels like when i tighten it down fully the shifter wont even move,im not sure if im missing a piece,but i belive the s4's do not have nylon in the center hole or on the shifter itself.
What are the wire colors in the 1st pic?
Where does the disconnected wire run to in the 2nd pic?
And it sounds like at least one of your issues is a vacuum leak. Secondly, it's not always advisable to start removing things because it introduces more problems. Now look at what the net result is after you worked on your car. If the car ran fine before working on it and now it doesn't then that should tell you something as it relates to removing stuff.
Where does the disconnected wire run to in the 2nd pic?
And it sounds like at least one of your issues is a vacuum leak. Secondly, it's not always advisable to start removing things because it introduces more problems. Now look at what the net result is after you worked on your car. If the car ran fine before working on it and now it doesn't then that should tell you something as it relates to removing stuff.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
1st pic is the AAS plug, your car doesn't have AAS.
2. wire near the battery is either not factory, or its??
3. you removed the idle control valve, so it will idle low.
2. wire near the battery is either not factory, or its??
3. you removed the idle control valve, so it will idle low.
And this valve is not part of the emission system. In fact as I understand it most cars have this valve.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
When you changed the exhaust out from what i assume was the factory down pipe and cat, and removed the air pump, you left a vacuum line off somewhere or routed something improperly. Starts then stalls or only runs with your foot on the gas indicates vacuum leaks in my experience.
Ive run engines with no BAC and had minimal issues. You do have to bump the idle up to around 900-1000 RPM. I do make sure that its only on a vehicle with no AC and no PS. Does your car have the variable resistor? Might be worth trying to tune on it and see if it helps.
Ive run engines with no BAC and had minimal issues. You do have to bump the idle up to around 900-1000 RPM. I do make sure that its only on a vehicle with no AC and no PS. Does your car have the variable resistor? Might be worth trying to tune on it and see if it helps.
Last edited by NCross; Jun 26, 2016 at 10:31 AM.
When you changed the exhaust out from what i assume was the factory down pipe and cat, and removed the air pump, you left a vacuum line off somewhere or routed something improperly. Starts then stalls or only runs with your foot on the gas indicates vacuum leaks in my experience. Ive run engines with no BAC and had minimal issues. You do have to bump the idle up to around 900-1000 RPM. I do make sure that its only on a vehicle with no AC and no PS. Does your car have the variable resistor? Might be worth trying to tune on it and see if it helps.
Quick google search for the vaccum diagram,and i noticed this,a diagram once the acv has been removed,if i choose to do so Has anyone actually had this setup working in their car?
Last edited by Joethefo; Jun 26, 2016 at 03:36 PM.
Just an update,after going through all vaccum lines one more time and solo adjusting the variable resistor,and idle adjuster,it runs. Hard to get it smooth at 750,it wants to run rich.
I think they issue I had previously with it not starting after stalling was some sort of safe mode because the car saw bad af mixture?
Anyways thanks to those who replied about my stupid question regarding the plug.
I think they issue I had previously with it not starting after stalling was some sort of safe mode because the car saw bad af mixture?
Anyways thanks to those who replied about my stupid question regarding the plug.
Last edited by Joethefo; Jun 26, 2016 at 05:36 PM.
Trending Topics
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
in your picture, #3, the connector isn't plugged into anything.
thee air pump, injects air into the exhaust ports, and some of the air goes into the engine. so when the air pump is removed it idles rich. the air pump was there for a reason...
Just an update,after going through all vaccum lines one more time and solo adjusting the variable resistor,and idle adjuster,it runs. Hard to get it smooth at 750,it wants to run rich.
I think they issue I had previously with it not starting after stalling was some sort of safe mode because the car saw bad af mixture?
Anyways thanks to those who replied about my stupid question regarding the plug.
I think they issue I had previously with it not starting after stalling was some sort of safe mode because the car saw bad af mixture?
Anyways thanks to those who replied about my stupid question regarding the plug.
The air pump had no belt before I removed it. So by pulling it out I don't think it's going to make a difference anyways.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GSLSEforme
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
18
Aug 5, 2016 05:50 AM







