Starter won't even think about cranking
Starter won't even think about cranking
OK, here's the deal. I've got an 88 S4 Vert. Yesterday, it started and ran fine, but today, for some reason, it won't even crank when attempting to start it. I hear a click, which I'm guessing is the solenoid, but no go on any starter motor action.
Voltage looked a little low (12V dropping to 9V when attempting to turn over on the dash voltage meter, a multimeter didn't show as strong of a drop). I tried to jump it with my neighbor's accord. The starter never went. We let it sit on the car for five minutes or so without doing anything to let the battery pull a little charge with it. When connected to the running accord, it still wouldn't turn over. It dropped to about 49 degF last night, which isn't terribly cold, but probably the coldest the battery has experienced in a while. I did pull the battery connections after trying to jump it and scraped then a bit with a screwdriver, but that didn't seem to do anything.
So I'm thinking my next step is to pull the battery and take it to an automotive place to see if they can run a diagnostic on it to see how many amps its cranking. I'm not a car expert by any means, so does anyone have any other ideas? I don't know that a starter would just go as quickly as it did without any signs, and I think I hear the solenoid clicking.
Voltage looked a little low (12V dropping to 9V when attempting to turn over on the dash voltage meter, a multimeter didn't show as strong of a drop). I tried to jump it with my neighbor's accord. The starter never went. We let it sit on the car for five minutes or so without doing anything to let the battery pull a little charge with it. When connected to the running accord, it still wouldn't turn over. It dropped to about 49 degF last night, which isn't terribly cold, but probably the coldest the battery has experienced in a while. I did pull the battery connections after trying to jump it and scraped then a bit with a screwdriver, but that didn't seem to do anything.
So I'm thinking my next step is to pull the battery and take it to an automotive place to see if they can run a diagnostic on it to see how many amps its cranking. I'm not a car expert by any means, so does anyone have any other ideas? I don't know that a starter would just go as quickly as it did without any signs, and I think I hear the solenoid clicking.
i would check the connections at the starter .....or the starter went bad. they do that **** lol. mine did on the way to an event at a toll booth in downtown chicago after i stalled it in 5 oclock friday traffic.
If the battery tests out fine then take the starter out and have it tested.
I've gone through about a zillion starters. If the solenoid clicks you probably have seized armature inside. Happened to me all the time. Whack the starter with a hammer and then try and start it.
I've gone through about a zillion starters. If the solenoid clicks you probably have seized armature inside. Happened to me all the time. Whack the starter with a hammer and then try and start it.
The battery probably has a bad cell in it. If battery voltage drops below 10.2 volts there is not enough to activate the starter.
Also when jump starting it is best to connect the negative cable of the vehicle being jumped to the alternator bracket or other good ground. If the battery has a dead cell and you hook the cables to the battery the circuit cannot be completed.
95% of the time the clicking sound you hear is due to low voltage.
Also when jump starting it is best to connect the negative cable of the vehicle being jumped to the alternator bracket or other good ground. If the battery has a dead cell and you hook the cables to the battery the circuit cannot be completed.
95% of the time the clicking sound you hear is due to low voltage.
Update: It's a miracle!
So I've been sitting here thinking I've had a similar issue before. I was thinking to my first car, a Hyundai Scoupe that my dad talked me into buying instead of a 1st gen. This would happen regularly, but clickling the starter a few times quickly would cause it to eventually crank. Well, I did just that, and it worked. If anyone can explain to me why, I'd be very appreciative. I used to attribute it to the starter kill on the security system on my old Scoupe, but I could be completely wrong there.
So I've been sitting here thinking I've had a similar issue before. I was thinking to my first car, a Hyundai Scoupe that my dad talked me into buying instead of a 1st gen. This would happen regularly, but clickling the starter a few times quickly would cause it to eventually crank. Well, I did just that, and it worked. If anyone can explain to me why, I'd be very appreciative. I used to attribute it to the starter kill on the security system on my old Scoupe, but I could be completely wrong there.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
if your voltage drops its because the starter is screwed internally. it tries to draw too much power (short?) and drains the battery a bit more than it should. just buy a brand new starter and install it yourself. no telling when it will just go out completely and leave you stranded. mine ran about $70 after core I believe.
^^ to the guy that said he goes through a zillion starters... do you keep buying brand new ones? brand new ones come with lifetime warranties most of the time meaning if it even thinks about going bad you get a new one.
^^ to the guy that said he goes through a zillion starters... do you keep buying brand new ones? brand new ones come with lifetime warranties most of the time meaning if it even thinks about going bad you get a new one.
Next time turn the headlights on. Go to start. IF it just clicks and the headlights did not go dim, then your problem is most likely starter solenoid/ignition sw wiring related.
Doubter??? Do this instead of removing a starter to have someone check it out. Leave the starter in the car. Car in neutral and raised up where you can get under it with a common screwdriver. No key required in the ignition. Use the screwdriver shank to bridge b/t the Small blade on the starter solenoid and the Large wire on the solenoid. The starter will turn over. Do it several times. IF it does turn the starter every time, then the starter solenod/starter is good. Your problem is ignition sw related or the wiring in b/t the ignition sw and the starter solenoid. I'd bet the ignition sw can't carry the load to engage the solenoid. Just enough current to make it click.
So it's Sunday and enough time left in the day to jack the car and jumper the solenoid on the starter as described.
Doubter??? Do this instead of removing a starter to have someone check it out. Leave the starter in the car. Car in neutral and raised up where you can get under it with a common screwdriver. No key required in the ignition. Use the screwdriver shank to bridge b/t the Small blade on the starter solenoid and the Large wire on the solenoid. The starter will turn over. Do it several times. IF it does turn the starter every time, then the starter solenod/starter is good. Your problem is ignition sw related or the wiring in b/t the ignition sw and the starter solenoid. I'd bet the ignition sw can't carry the load to engage the solenoid. Just enough current to make it click.
So it's Sunday and enough time left in the day to jack the car and jumper the solenoid on the starter as described.
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Easiest way to figure out if the starter is on the way out.......
It has a big terminal, 30, 12V positive directly from the battery.
A small terminal, 50, 12V positive switched by ignition switch.
Put car out of gear, ignition key in pos 2. E-brake on.
Flat screwdriver, bridge the big terminal to the small terminal with the screwdriver, if it clicks but the starter doesn't even attempt turning over.
Either the contact in the solenoid, which switches the power to the startermotor is shot. Try tapping the starter with a nylon hammer, or the stem of a iron hammer. Usually this unlodges the starter, then put the screwdriver back in between the big and small terminal, if it turns over then, you starter is shot as well. it means it has a 'dead' spot on the electric anchor inside the starter motor.
My bet is on the starter, def. not on the battery...
It has a big terminal, 30, 12V positive directly from the battery.
A small terminal, 50, 12V positive switched by ignition switch.
Put car out of gear, ignition key in pos 2. E-brake on.
Flat screwdriver, bridge the big terminal to the small terminal with the screwdriver, if it clicks but the starter doesn't even attempt turning over.
Either the contact in the solenoid, which switches the power to the startermotor is shot. Try tapping the starter with a nylon hammer, or the stem of a iron hammer. Usually this unlodges the starter, then put the screwdriver back in between the big and small terminal, if it turns over then, you starter is shot as well. it means it has a 'dead' spot on the electric anchor inside the starter motor.
My bet is on the starter, def. not on the battery...
Easiest way to figure out if the starter is on the way out.......
It has a big terminal, 30, 12V positive directly from the battery.
A small terminal, 50, 12V positive switched by ignition switch.
Put car out of gear, ignition key in pos 2. E-brake on.
Flat screwdriver, bridge the big terminal to the small terminal with the screwdriver, if it clicks but the starter doesn't even attempt turning over.
Either the contact in the solenoid, which switches the power to the startermotor is shot. Try tapping the starter with a nylon hammer, or the stem of a iron hammer. Usually this unlodges the starter, then put the screwdriver back in between the big and small terminal, if it turns over then, you starter is shot as well. it means it has a 'dead' spot on the electric anchor inside the starter motor.
My bet is on the starter, def. not on the battery...
It has a big terminal, 30, 12V positive directly from the battery.
A small terminal, 50, 12V positive switched by ignition switch.
Put car out of gear, ignition key in pos 2. E-brake on.
Flat screwdriver, bridge the big terminal to the small terminal with the screwdriver, if it clicks but the starter doesn't even attempt turning over.
Either the contact in the solenoid, which switches the power to the startermotor is shot. Try tapping the starter with a nylon hammer, or the stem of a iron hammer. Usually this unlodges the starter, then put the screwdriver back in between the big and small terminal, if it turns over then, you starter is shot as well. it means it has a 'dead' spot on the electric anchor inside the starter motor.
My bet is on the starter, def. not on the battery...
Update: It's a miracle!
So I've been sitting here thinking I've had a similar issue before. I was thinking to my first car, a Hyundai Scoupe that my dad talked me into buying instead of a 1st gen. This would happen regularly, but clickling the starter a few times quickly would cause it to eventually crank. Well, I did just that, and it worked. If anyone can explain to me why, I'd be very appreciative. I used to attribute it to the starter kill on the security system on my old Scoupe, but I could be completely wrong there.
So I've been sitting here thinking I've had a similar issue before. I was thinking to my first car, a Hyundai Scoupe that my dad talked me into buying instead of a 1st gen. This would happen regularly, but clickling the starter a few times quickly would cause it to eventually crank. Well, I did just that, and it worked. If anyone can explain to me why, I'd be very appreciative. I used to attribute it to the starter kill on the security system on my old Scoupe, but I could be completely wrong there.
This is exactly what I was getting at. You have burnt armature in your starter, replace your starter. I had this exact thing happen to me on many occasions in different FCs. There is burnt up stuff in there and when you turn the key quickly a few times it will find a non "burnt" spot and work.
be advised however that, in addition to mechanical failure of the starter, these cars also have a known "click...click... start" electrical type of problem, as hailers alluded to. Sometimes it's the clutch switch, sometimes it's corrosion on the connectors; it could be a lot of things. Some people will run a relay to send juice straight from the battery to the starter as a final solution when nothing else seemed to work.
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