von

First off this is my Godzilla ported engine. Seems as though the **** is hard to start. Almost doesent start at all. But im wondering how many miles does it take to build enoughf compression so it will start easier than this. I need to jump it every time...

This car is hard to drive.

How much can I sell this for after the engine is worn in ?

mazdaspeed7

If it isnt better in 500 miles, youre SOL.

von

thnx mzdaspee7. Yeah well after 30miles it started by itself BARELY. This was imposible 30 miles ago. I think it will be better. And if I get an optima battery and sumit racing starter I think it will help. Thing is I just dont want to spend so much anymore. Im going broke. Ahhhhh

von

Mabey MSD will work as well for starting.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

The motor won't come upto full compression until between 1k-2.5k miles. This depends apon if you used old rotor housings, and used apex seals etc.

I did'nt get a chance to see the exaust port design on your motor, but I've had one with the nearly the same style of intake porting. I had to have my idle around 1,100 rpms. Then it had a slow brap, brap, brap idle to it. It drove fine, and made a little over 180rwhp with a dellorto. Probably around 220 flywheel.

Why is the car hard to drive now? Give it some time to break in. CJ

bcty

try and keep us posted.. any pics of this port?

banzaitoyota

Von: Before you lay out the $$$$ for High $$$ Starters. Buy some HIGH QUALITY WIRE and redo you grounds

mazdaspeed7

And buy some new plugs, preferably platinum. New plugs fixed my starting problem. BTW, i used old housings and apex seals on my rebuild, and didnt see full compression until around 3500 miles.

von

Will I still build compression if I race it after 500miles ???

I have new magnacores , and standard NGK plugs...I have monster cable 4gauge I think with gold connecters going to and from starter/ battery. .. WIll have to do some grounds because I melted a wire.

PP13bnos !!! 1100 ? My car will only idle well at 3500rpms right now. We got it down to 2500 but its risky becase it will stall. I have no low end whatsover. This streetport is said to make alot more than 180rwp but we will see. I cannot send pics for some reason. I will have to email them to you. Send me your emailz.

von

I dont know where I can afford to drive it more than 500 miles...its loud.

DC350

its supposed to be shitty when you just but your engine back together. The way you drive it for the next 2000 miles will determine how well it will perform for the next 150 or so K. Be nice to it. Letting it idle is better then not driving it at all. DO NOT redline it. Keep it out of the high RPMS

BlackRx7

my rebuild started fine after I pull started it to build up compression, used reused rotors housing, and apex seals..

nitroracer

iTrader: (5)

VON IT TAKES TIME!!! CALM DOWN AND GIVE IT TIME...DRIVE OVER HERE FOO!

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me then. But I would'nt race it at 500 miles. You're asking for nothing but problems.

Also, a non efi peripheral engine idels around 2k, and I can garentee, the peripheral has alot more overlap. CJ

von

Actually this port has the same volume as a periphial port. Mazdatrix has a site on this explaining that but they did not test this sorta configuration...

The idle will go down to 2000 rpms now with a bounce. Th ebounce I think is just the primary plate being open to far and the TPS not being able to adjust for it. Hmmm

I sprayed carb cleaner everywere and cannot find a leak. Everything is put back together metaculously making sure thier are no leaks. Vacume lines are all silycone with new hoses all done by me , and I believe I do better work than any meckanic that I konw of. I think its just the TB and TPS adjustments but it will not idle lower than 2k right now.

BlackRx7

have you tried adjusting the idle stop screws....or maybe richenig up the varibale resitor?

von

Yes the idle stop screw is the one that adjust the primary and secondary throtle right ? Because I think I need to readjust the primary. I dont know what the variable resister is. Can you explain more about this? whatever it is it shouldnt be the problem since the car idled fine before the port job. And I have adjusted the S-AFC at idle and at 2000 rpms with almost no change.

BlackRx7

the Rich Lean screw near the left strut mount....you can find it in the FSM...once you port the **** out of a motor your gonna have to change the idle...

von

My car is a S5 89-91 I dont think I have this rich lean screw like the S4???

mazdaspeed7

My car idled at 1000 rpm with the rebuild and used seals, with maybe 20 miles on it.

von

Thats nice but this port is like no other. The port timing open and closed is the same as a periphial port although power wont be the same. The timing is.

mazdaspeed7

Arent we a little cocky????

Dont be so sure of yourself.....

mazdaspeed7

BTW, your port may have similar timing to a PP, but it opens and closes later, and the port shape isnt exactly optimum. I dont think youll be to impressed with the results of that port on a n/a motor.

von

No I already said I wasnt going to make the same power but im hoping for as much as a j-bridge on a 4port motor..Whats that rated at ? I think I read on a sheet that it will make 180-240rwp ? But I can look again. The whole purpose to this expieriment was to prove that you dont have to throw away 6port housings for the 4port ones...I think I will be happy with 200rwp no standalone although that means spinning my rotors high and I have S4 low compression heavy rotors wich might make a bit of difference at high rpms. I had these in thier before the porting and made around 158rwp on a dynojet before TB porting and new clutch and flywheel...We will see. My meckanic says I should make more than 220rwp but hes not good with N/As he usually only does single turbo 3rd gens and 3 rotors with haltecks that brat.

mazdaspeed7

Something isnt right with your setup. Even that porting should have usable power below 5K.

You want a tip for breakign it in? Get some sheet metal, and trace onto it the gasket for where the middle bolts to the lower manifold. Then only cut out the 2 center holes(primary runners). It will seal off the ports on the end housing, and will make the car drivable. You wont have any power past 4k, but it will be drivable enough to get miles on it.