Which stand alone Computer is best? Wolf3D V4 Plus, Microtech...etc ??
#1
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Which stand alone Computer is best? Wolf3D V4 Plus, Microtech...etc ??
Hi, for all of you that have been following up with all that has happened with my car since i got it home. I finally spoke to my wife and I get to keep the car.
Prior to putting the new engine in I need some info and advice.
So far I have...
#1- The car with the stock engine in it that I can not get to run.
#2- A new stage 3 ported and polished engine.
#3- A full 3 inch downpipe with 2 welded bung holes one for a stock 02 sensor and one for a wideband 02 sensor, Stock cat for emmisions, and a 80mm Cork Sport Full Turbo Back Exhaust & Apexi Exhaust Control Valve.
Now before I have the engine put in I want to get two things...
1- A stand alone computer.
2- Secondary injectors.
3- Upgraded fuel pump.
4- upgraded clutch.
I was thinking about the Wolf3D V4 Plus computer or Microtech lt10s.
Can anyone tell me which would be better for my rx7 and what the differences are?
The clutch I have been looking at is the ACT 6 puck.
On the secondary injectors on a S4 turbo 2 what should the impedence be?
Which fuel pump is best for my car too. My friend told me a Warlboro would be fine. Is that true?
Thanks all...
Prior to putting the new engine in I need some info and advice.
So far I have...
#1- The car with the stock engine in it that I can not get to run.
#2- A new stage 3 ported and polished engine.
#3- A full 3 inch downpipe with 2 welded bung holes one for a stock 02 sensor and one for a wideband 02 sensor, Stock cat for emmisions, and a 80mm Cork Sport Full Turbo Back Exhaust & Apexi Exhaust Control Valve.
Now before I have the engine put in I want to get two things...
1- A stand alone computer.
2- Secondary injectors.
3- Upgraded fuel pump.
4- upgraded clutch.
I was thinking about the Wolf3D V4 Plus computer or Microtech lt10s.
Can anyone tell me which would be better for my rx7 and what the differences are?
The clutch I have been looking at is the ACT 6 puck.
On the secondary injectors on a S4 turbo 2 what should the impedence be?
Which fuel pump is best for my car too. My friend told me a Warlboro would be fine. Is that true?
Thanks all...
#2
Sharp Claws
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1) you do have someone to install this engine who knows a fair amount about rotary engines correct?
2) ask your mechanic what EMS he supports since he will be the one installing it you should leave it to him to choose irregardless of how people around here feel about each EMS out there.
2) ask your mechanic what EMS he supports since he will be the one installing it you should leave it to him to choose irregardless of how people around here feel about each EMS out there.
#4
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Originally Posted by Karack
1) you do have someone to install this engine who knows a fair amount about rotary engines correct?
2) ask your mechanic what EMS he supports since he will be the one installing it you should leave it to him to choose irregardless of how people around here feel about each EMS out there.
2) ask your mechanic what EMS he supports since he will be the one installing it you should leave it to him to choose irregardless of how people around here feel about each EMS out there.
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1. megasquirt is my choice of standalone.
2. injectors- 86-7 are low impedence (2-3 ohm), 88 are high (12-13 ohm)
3. A walboro should be adequete, although I would get a new FPR and run parralel fuel rails
4. ACT 6 puck is fine, if you are able to slip it well enough for everyday use, otherwise it may be a little harsh
2. injectors- 86-7 are low impedence (2-3 ohm), 88 are high (12-13 ohm)
3. A walboro should be adequete, although I would get a new FPR and run parralel fuel rails
4. ACT 6 puck is fine, if you are able to slip it well enough for everyday use, otherwise it may be a little harsh
#6
Sharp Claws
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well i hope you know what you are in for, probably a divorce... seriously.
i suggest a Haltech E6X and a innovate LMC1 wideband, secondary choice would be a microtech LT8s which is a little cheaper but not as easy to tune but with the LMC1 it should make tuning a little easier for you.
i suggest a Haltech E6X and a innovate LMC1 wideband, secondary choice would be a microtech LT8s which is a little cheaper but not as easy to tune but with the LMC1 it should make tuning a little easier for you.
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#9
My girlfriends dad has a performance shop where they work on rx7s. He is a supplier of Haltec and Microtec ECU's. If you're interested email me at parm.singh@gmail.com
Also i believe they wont mind teaching you to tune your own car. I know he's shown one guy who has a 3rd gen power fc.
Also i believe they wont mind teaching you to tune your own car. I know he's shown one guy who has a 3rd gen power fc.
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Originally Posted by tinvestor
Well you can probably learn to tune it but the initial tune will probably need to be done by a pro.
Which ecu would be good for my car and also at the same time easy enough for me to understand and learn to tune my car?
#11
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Originally Posted by Karack
well i hope you know what you are in for, probably a divorce... seriously.
#13
Sharp Claws
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expect it to turn into a much larger project than you originally anticipated. most of the guys around here doing full builds on their cars have had them in their garage for several years, those who paid to have the work done it took several months and probably $7k+ for a 300+RWHP car
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Originally Posted by Karack
expect it to turn into a much larger project than you originally anticipated. most of the guys around here doing full builds on their cars have had them in their garage for several years, those who paid to have the work done it took several months and probably $7k+ for a 300+RWHP car
#15
if you have the money i would recomend the wolf only because when i installed mine it started right up first time it is so user freindly it hond your ignition on a dime so you dont blow your motor and it has anti flooding no more poped motors im 3 years with mine and it runs like a champ im not a piggy back fan but my buddy put a rtec in and his runs hard make sure you have a good fuel pump and rewire it toss your injectors there 20 years old start fresh and be done with it it will pay for itself after a month of not blowing your motor just my 2 cents
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Originally Posted by dennis blackstone
if you have the money i would recomend the wolf only because when i installed mine it started right up first time it is so user freindly it hond your ignition on a dime so you dont blow your motor and it has anti flooding no more poped motors im 3 years with mine and it runs like a champ im not a piggy back fan but my buddy put a rtec in and his runs hard make sure you have a good fuel pump and rewire it toss your injectors there 20 years old start fresh and be done with it it will pay for itself after a month of not blowing your motor just my 2 cents
#17
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The ECU debate is a long one. Everyone has their preferences. Here's my 4 cents (2 cents is not enough to cover ECUs).
The Megasquirt is a great ECU, but you MUST be prepared to do some DIY work. You need knowledge in electronics and you must be familiar with the car and it's sensors. The MS 2.2 requires significant modifications to run the stock ignition, the MS 3 doesn't require as much. Either way, these ECUs are great for hobbiests that want to experiment, but if that's not you then stay away.
Don't touch the Wolf. It can't run the stock FC ignition, suffers from a lot of triggering problems with the stock CAS and if you are just beginning the software will make you head spin.
My ECU of choice is the Microtech. I just like how it's set up and it will do 99% of what the Haltech does. The harness is simple and it comes with a base map that almost guarantees the car will fire first try.
That said, for your situation I would recommend the Haltech. The reason is because there is so much Haltech support out there. You can find a base map for almost every configuration so you can get the ECU installed and make the car drivable with minimal tweaking. It will still require a proper tune of course but at least you can find a map close enough to tie you over. The harness is more complicated then the Microtech and you will have to install the Haltech's water temp and air temp sensor for certain versions (E6X for example).
The Megasquirt is a great ECU, but you MUST be prepared to do some DIY work. You need knowledge in electronics and you must be familiar with the car and it's sensors. The MS 2.2 requires significant modifications to run the stock ignition, the MS 3 doesn't require as much. Either way, these ECUs are great for hobbiests that want to experiment, but if that's not you then stay away.
Don't touch the Wolf. It can't run the stock FC ignition, suffers from a lot of triggering problems with the stock CAS and if you are just beginning the software will make you head spin.
My ECU of choice is the Microtech. I just like how it's set up and it will do 99% of what the Haltech does. The harness is simple and it comes with a base map that almost guarantees the car will fire first try.
That said, for your situation I would recommend the Haltech. The reason is because there is so much Haltech support out there. You can find a base map for almost every configuration so you can get the ECU installed and make the car drivable with minimal tweaking. It will still require a proper tune of course but at least you can find a map close enough to tie you over. The harness is more complicated then the Microtech and you will have to install the Haltech's water temp and air temp sensor for certain versions (E6X for example).
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Ok this is really confusing... I am not sure which to get or use. Which would i be able to install myself and program. Which would work well with the stock ignition...sensors... etc?
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If you have to ask....Wiring in a standalone is not fundamentally difficult. If you can follow a diagram and instructions, and know how to make good soldered connections and use heat shrink tubing then you can do it.
However the devil is in the details.
All ECUs have basicall the same connections to be made. The Haltech harness can be intimidating to the new user while the Microtech harness come with just what you need. By default, the Microtech comes programmed to use the stock sensors.
If you are "programming" it yourself, you need to be familiar with how to tune an engine otherwise the result will be a mess and likely a blown engine. Just having a wideband does not a tuner make.
However the devil is in the details.
All ECUs have basicall the same connections to be made. The Haltech harness can be intimidating to the new user while the Microtech harness come with just what you need. By default, the Microtech comes programmed to use the stock sensors.
If you are "programming" it yourself, you need to be familiar with how to tune an engine otherwise the result will be a mess and likely a blown engine. Just having a wideband does not a tuner make.
#20
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you have to ask....Wiring in a standalone is not fundamentally difficult. If you can follow a diagram and instructions, and know how to make good soldered connections and use heat shrink tubing then you can do it.
However the devil is in the details.
All ECUs have basicall the same connections to be made. The Haltech harness can be intimidating to the new user while the Microtech harness come with just what you need. By default, the Microtech comes programmed to use the stock sensors.
If you are "programming" it yourself, you need to be familiar with how to tune an engine otherwise the result will be a mess and likely a blown engine. Just having a wideband does not a tuner make.
However the devil is in the details.
All ECUs have basicall the same connections to be made. The Haltech harness can be intimidating to the new user while the Microtech harness come with just what you need. By default, the Microtech comes programmed to use the stock sensors.
If you are "programming" it yourself, you need to be familiar with how to tune an engine otherwise the result will be a mess and likely a blown engine. Just having a wideband does not a tuner make.
However what I am concerned with it starting the car after installing which ever unit i end up with, with out hurting my new engine. I want a ecu which would be easy for me to learn to tune myself so I can keep the car running properly. The exhaust I have for the car has a Apexi Exhaust Control Valve which allows me to tune my exhaust from inside the car by pushing and pulling a small lever. So basically I can change the flow and loudness of the exhaust from inside the car on the fly! That is why I want to be able to tune my ecu myself. If I have the ecv all the way open then I need to be able to retune the ecu to correspond properly with the exhaust fully open... Then if I partially close the ECV i would want to be able to retune the ecu to correspond properly with the partially open exhaust.
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Originally Posted by Karack
well i hope you know what you are in for, probably a divorce... seriously.
i suggest a Haltech E6X and a innovate LMC1 wideband, secondary choice would be a microtech LT8s which is a little cheaper but not as easy to tune but with the LMC1 it should make tuning a little easier for you.
i suggest a Haltech E6X and a innovate LMC1 wideband, secondary choice would be a microtech LT8s which is a little cheaper but not as easy to tune but with the LMC1 it should make tuning a little easier for you.
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Originally Posted by netfreakz
Karack... I am confused please share with my yoru experience and knowledge please. I am able to get the wolf unit for free. A buddy of mine owns a speed shop and owes me money which he can't pay me so he offered to give me a brand new Wolf3D V4 Plus instead of giving me cash because he is short on cash. You say a haltech or micro tech... I will take your advice. let me be more specific. I am looking for a unit that at first can work with my stock ignition syatem and coils...sensors. In the future I will upgrade them. I am also looking for something I can learn, understand and tune myself.
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