Spooled Up Racing's Turbo Swap Thread
09-21-07, 09:11 AM
#26
Engine, Not Motor
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Yes, it does.
The S4 used a mechanical flapper to control exhaust gas through the turbos twin scrolls. Only one was used at low RPM, then both opened up as more air flowed through the engine.
The S5 uses a truly divided exhaust manifold to direct air to both scrolls on the turbo at the same time.
So the correct statement would be "the S5 does not have a mechanically controlled twin scroll system".
The S4 used a mechanical flapper to control exhaust gas through the turbos twin scrolls. Only one was used at low RPM, then both opened up as more air flowed through the engine.
The S5 uses a truly divided exhaust manifold to direct air to both scrolls on the turbo at the same time.
So the correct statement would be "the S5 does not have a mechanically controlled twin scroll system".
09-21-07, 09:14 AM
#27
Yes, it does.
The S4 used a mechanical flapper to control exhaust gas through the turbos twin scrolls. Only one was used at low RPM, then both opened up as more air flowed through the engine.
The S5 uses a truly divided exhaust manifold to direct air to both scrolls on the turbo at the same time.
So the correct statement would be "the S5 does not have a mechanically controlled twin scroll system".
The S4 used a mechanical flapper to control exhaust gas through the turbos twin scrolls. Only one was used at low RPM, then both opened up as more air flowed through the engine.
The S5 uses a truly divided exhaust manifold to direct air to both scrolls on the turbo at the same time.
So the correct statement would be "the S5 does not have a mechanically controlled twin scroll system".
09-21-07, 06:03 PM
#28
I really Schruted it
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I am getting excited to tear that thing apart on Saturday. I have the special tools if you have the baggies and the patience. S4 or S5 turbo, you're still going to smoke me. The more I think about it the more I want a Camden. When you roach me I'm going to have to at least look respectable...
Brian
Brian
09-21-07, 09:11 PM
#29
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I got the baggies, labels, markers tonight so I am ready.. come over after work and we will go get your engine then tare my motor apart.. I plan to get most of it disassembled tomorrow before u come over (all the external stuff
09-22-07, 07:58 AM
#30
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Well last night I went outside and started removing everything and bagging up parts etc... here is what I acomplished in abotu an hour, hour and a half..
And here is a pic of the engine openings (best I could get)
Today I am going to un bolt the tranny and hopefully get the engine on higher ground.
Later today Brain AKA RX7Tuner is gonna come over and help me disasemble the entire engine and this way twe can start looking at what this is REALLY like...
I will update this thread later with more pics. BTW I did turn the engien over last night (ratchet on the pulley bolt) and it turned over VERY EASY and had compression (I could hear it POPPING out of the intake port).
And here is a pic of the engine openings (best I could get)
Today I am going to un bolt the tranny and hopefully get the engine on higher ground.
Later today Brain AKA RX7Tuner is gonna come over and help me disasemble the entire engine and this way twe can start looking at what this is REALLY like...
I will update this thread later with more pics. BTW I did turn the engien over last night (ratchet on the pulley bolt) and it turned over VERY EASY and had compression (I could hear it POPPING out of the intake port).
09-22-07, 09:46 PM
#31
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Well today was the day for the big tare down and boy was it a fun one lol... I learned quite a bit and got to see alot first hand and it was a blast..
On the other hand I got to see what a NOT NEW engine looks like... both rotor housings appear to be a GREAT shape.. not flawless but in very good shape. The irons also appear to be in GREAT shape.. The rotors are a different thing though.. they are COMPLETLY covered in ash and carbon.. I am going to have to give them a good soak and cleaning to see if they are ok.. otherwise the sides and the apex seal lips seem to be ok (more specing will be needed to verify)
The irons have not been ported (never told they were just stating facts), so those will get a good street port.
anywho onto the pics.
The tool:
WAIT thats not the tool thats RX7Tuner aka Brian, (the Muscle/Brains of the opperation)
The tool (flywheel nut removal tool):
I was suprised that is a HUGE tool and that nut is HARD AS HELL to get off especially with the engien not on a stand.
Another tool (flywheel tooth holder):
sorry thats a bad pic of it I should have taken it out of the bag but we need to move on!
The rotors:
The last one shows you where it was nicked a bit form a screw that was droped into the engine (prior to be buying the engine, however it looks like the only damage was on the rotor and not the housing)
The housings:
I know the picture quality is not that great however I can take more pics tomorrow we were busy and I wanted to snap some quickies and move on!
The irons:
Using your fingers on both the irons and the houisngs you dont feel ANY imperfections or scratches/gouges.
The e-shaft:
Again not a great pic but it also is in GREAT shape.
On the other hand I got to see what a NOT NEW engine looks like... both rotor housings appear to be a GREAT shape.. not flawless but in very good shape. The irons also appear to be in GREAT shape.. The rotors are a different thing though.. they are COMPLETLY covered in ash and carbon.. I am going to have to give them a good soak and cleaning to see if they are ok.. otherwise the sides and the apex seal lips seem to be ok (more specing will be needed to verify)
The irons have not been ported (never told they were just stating facts), so those will get a good street port.
anywho onto the pics.
The tool:
WAIT thats not the tool thats RX7Tuner aka Brian, (the Muscle/Brains of the opperation)
The tool (flywheel nut removal tool):
I was suprised that is a HUGE tool and that nut is HARD AS HELL to get off especially with the engien not on a stand.
Another tool (flywheel tooth holder):
sorry thats a bad pic of it I should have taken it out of the bag but we need to move on!
The rotors:
The last one shows you where it was nicked a bit form a screw that was droped into the engine (prior to be buying the engine, however it looks like the only damage was on the rotor and not the housing)
The housings:
I know the picture quality is not that great however I can take more pics tomorrow we were busy and I wanted to snap some quickies and move on!
The irons:
Using your fingers on both the irons and the houisngs you dont feel ANY imperfections or scratches/gouges.
The e-shaft:
Again not a great pic but it also is in GREAT shape.
09-22-07, 09:46 PM
#32
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Keeping the rotor seals correct Brian said "lets draw our diagrahms":
The clutch that came out of it (for sale slightly used looks fine should be a S4 T2 clutch kit 50.00 shipped USA)
The aftermath:
All in all we had a fun day. We started by going to pickup a S5 engine for Brian, then we grabbed lunch (THX Brian for that), then we came back to my place and got so nasty and dirty but it was a BLAST...
Look forward to more pics, info etc very soon!!
The clutch that came out of it (for sale slightly used looks fine should be a S4 T2 clutch kit 50.00 shipped USA)
The aftermath:
All in all we had a fun day. We started by going to pickup a S5 engine for Brian, then we grabbed lunch (THX Brian for that), then we came back to my place and got so nasty and dirty but it was a BLAST...
Look forward to more pics, info etc very soon!!
Last edited by SpooledupRacing; 09-22-07 at 09:55 PM.
09-23-07, 07:03 AM
#34
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Thank you sir. I know as far s the engine tare down part goes I am not all that informative in speak that is however that is why I tried to take as many pictures as I could that way I could atleast show everone the tools, procedures, and what the parts looked like.
I would like this to be a guide not only for myself but for others who may need help in the future. so I figred as like the engine if I am going to do it do it right the first time (write up and engine build)
I would like this to be a guide not only for myself but for others who may need help in the future. so I figred as like the engine if I am going to do it do it right the first time (write up and engine build)
09-23-07, 01:09 PM
#35
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Good luck on your swap. im happy i got my motor, tranny, and t2 hood for 1200. and compression was jolly great. It runs fine with the slight exception of a tiny vacuum leak causing me to have to warm it at 3k for a more extended period of time.
09-23-07, 04:58 PM
#36
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Well I cleaned up the rotors and they look ok.. the one rotor has a few marks in it and for osme reason it looks like it has a defect that is on EACH SIDE IN THE SAME PLACE (but nothing on the housing) I cant figure that out.. anyways on to the pics how do u guys think they look? Useable? are they going to be prime rotors to use or do I need to get different ones? I think one looks just fine (the front one) but the rear one I have no idea on.. RX7Tuner said it is fine I just want another opinion to make sure before I spend any money on other things. The rear rotor is the one that concerns me only because I dont know if this is ok or not?
ANYWHO
Front rotor:
Rear Rotor:
^^^^^^^^^this is the mark I am talking about it is on the same rotor all 3 faces in the same spot!!
^^^^Those last two show the spots I was talking about on the 3rd face of the rear rotor..
What do u guys think?
BTW as for cleaning (which I am not done yet) I sprayed the rotors down with brake cleaner used a flat blade screwdriver to scrape off the THICK carbon buildup and then used a PLASTIC wire wheel (drivin by a drill) to clean off everything... I have roughly 1 hour per rotor time into them as of yet but I dont want to put anymore time into them if they need to be replaced..
ANYWHO
Front rotor:
Rear Rotor:
^^^^^^^^^this is the mark I am talking about it is on the same rotor all 3 faces in the same spot!!
^^^^Those last two show the spots I was talking about on the 3rd face of the rear rotor..
What do u guys think?
BTW as for cleaning (which I am not done yet) I sprayed the rotors down with brake cleaner used a flat blade screwdriver to scrape off the THICK carbon buildup and then used a PLASTIC wire wheel (drivin by a drill) to clean off everything... I have roughly 1 hour per rotor time into them as of yet but I dont want to put anymore time into them if they need to be replaced..
09-24-07, 05:37 AM
#38
Love the pics :P it is great to read up on a build, up and coming. The casting in those area are quite good so it should be ok.
No clue on the rotors, unless the rotors were from a another/previous build that they decided to use. *cough*cheat*cough*cheap*cough*
No clue on the rotors, unless the rotors were from a another/previous build that they decided to use. *cough*cheat*cough*cheap*cough*
09-24-07, 09:20 AM
#39
Engine, Not Motor
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The pictures are very small so it's hard to see details, but those small marks look fine. Just file them down so the face is smooth. Rotors have all kinds of dents, stampings and defects in them....Just as long the seal grooves or thrust surfaces are uneffected a few dents isn't going to hurt anything.
09-24-07, 03:09 PM
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yeah they are small pics but to be honest the marks are tiny as well.. That is the biggest reason behind them being hard to see...
THX Aaron that makes me feel better about using these rotors... now to mic the specs on them
THX Aaron that makes me feel better about using these rotors... now to mic the specs on them
09-24-07, 11:45 PM
#42
the rotors are fine. Sometimes there are small marks on rotors as a result of the initial casting process. Anything that is a high spot just needs filed down. Low spots are fine.
That was not a new motor, those housings look to have some grooving on the rear edge, which happens in the 40-50k mile range. That's also not a few hours worth of carbon buildup. This could have been a jspec most likely.
That was not a new motor, those housings look to have some grooving on the rear edge, which happens in the 40-50k mile range. That's also not a few hours worth of carbon buildup. This could have been a jspec most likely.
09-25-07, 05:43 AM
#43
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I will check the housings again but I dont remember my finger catching on any grooves however u could be right.. I am glad that u say the rotors are ok visually. today I will get out my Micrometer and check the tolerances for all the seals etc..
Is there any way to know for sure if this is a Jspec engine?
EDIT: So all in all thought u think this would be a good engine to use for my T2 build if all the tolerences check out? I plan to run this with a SP and stock turbo for a while then jump up after break in (or after the first season) but I never expect this to be a 400hp engine (I would like it but I would be happy with 300-350)
Is there any way to know for sure if this is a Jspec engine?
EDIT: So all in all thought u think this would be a good engine to use for my T2 build if all the tolerences check out? I plan to run this with a SP and stock turbo for a while then jump up after break in (or after the first season) but I never expect this to be a 400hp engine (I would like it but I would be happy with 300-350)
09-26-07, 05:52 AM
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So yesterday I took a file and lightly cleaned up all the corners where the apex seal sits (rubbed the burrs out of the rotor face) and I mic'ed the opening and all the apex seal opening are all the same I mic'ed them in 2 places per cirner and they were all fine and strait.
Is there any other place on the rotors I need to mic to make sure they are in good spec?
Is there any other place on the rotors I need to mic to make sure they are in good spec?
09-30-07, 11:44 AM
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Ok so it has been 4 days and what have I acomplished.. well not much...
I have bought a digital micrometer, and magnetic dial indicator. a new set of screw drivers, 2 pick sets and today I started to do some more cleaning..
I started by cleaning all the grooves on the rotors (around the rings and in the apex grooves) I used a side seal, brake cleaner, 2-3 different size crew drivers, a wire brush and a pic and all the grooves appear to be almost so clean u would eat off of them. I then used a flat file and smothed down the apex seal corners (where there was a bit of roll back, and I hit that one small spot on the rotor face that was raised a touch.
I will get pictures of the rotors for you later . Afterwards I decided to clean the mating surfaces of the rotor housings... I started with the rear housing.. after some time with the wire wheel (being cautious not to hit the chrome section with the wheel) I managed to clean it up very well and then snap some pictures.
unfortunatly I did find this as I was snapping pics
here is what the rest of the housing looks like
Hopefully this is still a useable housing and will not give me a drop or a big drop in compression... I want to do this build correct but I dont want to have to buy more housings if I dont have to.
I have bought a digital micrometer, and magnetic dial indicator. a new set of screw drivers, 2 pick sets and today I started to do some more cleaning..
I started by cleaning all the grooves on the rotors (around the rings and in the apex grooves) I used a side seal, brake cleaner, 2-3 different size crew drivers, a wire brush and a pic and all the grooves appear to be almost so clean u would eat off of them. I then used a flat file and smothed down the apex seal corners (where there was a bit of roll back, and I hit that one small spot on the rotor face that was raised a touch.
I will get pictures of the rotors for you later . Afterwards I decided to clean the mating surfaces of the rotor housings... I started with the rear housing.. after some time with the wire wheel (being cautious not to hit the chrome section with the wheel) I managed to clean it up very well and then snap some pictures.
unfortunatly I did find this as I was snapping pics
here is what the rest of the housing looks like
Hopefully this is still a useable housing and will not give me a drop or a big drop in compression... I want to do this build correct but I dont want to have to buy more housings if I dont have to.