I'm looking to buy an intercooler for my '90 RX-7, but I'm not sure what one to get. The car is basically stock (and only running 5.5lbs of boost) with a full turbo-back exhaust. Runs 14.1 @ 100mph in the 1/4 mile.

Here's the specs on the intercooler:
Manufacturer: Sparco

Width : Top 31 1/2 inches Bottom 26 inches over 25" inbetween inlet/outlet holes.

Height : 13 1/2 inches

Core Dimentions:

Width : 24 inches

Height : 13 inches

Thickness : 3 inches

inlet and outlet are 2.5" diameter


Now, first of all, what do you guys think of these sizes and if you know of this intercooler. Is it any good (low pressure drop and good cooling) and all that? Also, will it fit as an FMIC on my '90 TurboII? I know a guy who'll do the piping for me.

 

*ahem* someone with some info?

 

how much does that spearco cost? i also saw a post one time bout fabbing your own end pipes and just buying the core. know anything bout that and if it saves money?

 

Why spend so much money on a spearco if you are running stock turbo with fairly stock boost levels?
(you will probably be in the 8-9psi range with your full exhaust system)

It's just not a very good performance-per-dollar modifciation.
Unless you plan on big upgrades down the road, just pick up a decent intercooler somewhere else for 25% the price. Even the stock intercooler is good up to about 12psi.

 

A FMIC is a very smart thing to buy. I have a Spearco FMIC and you'll love it. With a stock turbo there will be some lag going on I'm sure.....

Mine measures 27 x 7.5 x 3.5

 

with a stock turbo and a full racing beat exhaust i have a boost creep problem. i know all about porting the wastegate but i wanna upgrade turbos soon. before i do that though i need an intercooler big enough to handle the new turbo and one that'll fit the application. just wanna see what my options are cuz im not filthy rich! hehe.

 

If you plan on getting a bigger turbo, etc. you'll be gald you got the Spearco.... There hands down the nicest IC's you can buy. My intake temps run about 10-25 deg F. higher than ambient temps @ 15-20psi using a T60-1 turbo....hows that for efficient?

Brad

 

brad: really? What's your setup by the way? That seems to be pretty good for 20 psi (I didn't know you could run that safely on a rotary without major $$)

 

I'm not sure that 20psi is ever gonna be "safe" but with a good engine management system you can beat the odds.... My setup is on the single turbo thread page 3, first car...... Alot has changed since that but you'll get the idea.... I don't run 20psi very often, usually 15-16psi on 93 oct. fuel or 18-20psi on 104 if I make it past this gas station that has it up here... I want to run c-116 like I did with the old setup and run 25psi...I think thats a big ask with a T60-1 and a street port with basically stock internals....

Brad

 

well it's not like you can really "upgrade" much of the internals on a rotary.. it's not like they don't make forged pistons and forged rods for them.

 

Barwick:

I use to think the samething about not being able to do better things internally, but boy was I wrong! I have a friend from Puerto Rico and those guys no all the tricks...I telling you its amazing what you can do to make a rotary handle 800 - 1200hp....

The way I see it, I only have 255's on the back so what advantage would 500 plus hp get me when I can't hook up? Just a thought, ya know? I'd rather have my 400-475 rwhp range and hook up the right way....

anyway

Brad

 

well then wtf can they do internally to a rotary?

 

There are more ways to build a motor to handle 800hp than I know forsure...Lots of the high HP guys have the 3mm seals that are made from stronger materials... You can dowl and pin the housings etc. Also, some use stronger engine bolts so they can tighten the motor more....Ray Lochead, told me he uses 45 ft lbs-O-torque..
The FD motors have the most durable housings as far as I know, but I have heard of S4 and S5 motors run into the 600 plus hp range without the sides cracking....It all depends on the builder, I'll tell you that much....
Kevin "ASP" Wyum ported/built my motor and its faired to be a most dependable motor. I've had it in for 6 seasons and over heated twice really bad and ran up to 20psi. The compression isn't spot on, but all the chambers are the same, so I'll just keep running it until it goes.....it maybe the reason I can get so much boost on 92 fuel......scary!! but I don't care, the engines are cheap to fix

Brad

 

lightweight rotors, racing bearings, dowelling, 3mm seals made of better materials, something to do with grinding down the apexs of the rotors (can't remember what it's called), porting, some other stuff.

 

I was takling about like forged materials and that stuff. And I thought it's been proved that 3mm rotors don't make any difference over 2mm, there was a reason that Mazda went with 2mm seals. 3mm has been labeled as simply a cheap fix to reuse used bad parts.

 

they are stronger, but that's not saying you couldn't have a strong 2mm either.

 

I'm sure there a bit stronger ( 3mm seals) but I'm told the compression is better with 2mm....don't ask me why? Its probably something I should look into..... My Puerto Rican connection is build the next motor, unless I try it myself... I assisted with Kevin in the porting, but he did most of the sandwich'n back together

Brad