when i set up my SAFC2 on my 86 na, i noticed that when i needed to add fuel, it would make it leaner, and vice versa....so since my wideband was telling me i was running quite lean (14.0 - 17.0 at WOT) i decided to add fuel al the way through the rpm range (according to my wideband). what i was thinking today was.. if my wideband was incorrect (i am thinking this could be true.... since i am still running a airpump, and my 02 sensor is beside that ---- could this be cause for lean conditions at wot?) -would i be hurting my engine for having added an average of +10% through out the rpm range????


thanks!
cam

(p.s. i have straight pipes with no cat, and i have a k&n intake kit,)

 

if you still have a smog pump then the wideband sensor should be mounted in front of the cat/air dump to prevent misreadings. probably didn't hurt it much if at all if it wasn't for a long period.

 

Since you seem to have a airpump and probably the acv also, do this.......go and remove the BLUE connector off the Relief Solenoid. That should cause the acv to dump the air overboard thru the large hose on the bottom of the acv.


To verify this has happened, first monitor the wideband at idle. If all is connected up right, the reading will be in the 14''s afr. Now while idling and monitoring that afr, remove the Blue connector. The afr should drop down to the 13 range.

The 02 is not in the loop when at wide open throttle.

I suggest pulling the connector off the 02 sensor when doing adjustments at lower than wide open throttle .

There is something very Wrong if the settings are move to enrich the mixture but the effect to actually lean it out and vice versa. I suspect your not set to FLAP and are set to HOTWIRE instead. I'd go to INITIALIZE and wipe out all the settings and start over again.

For a month or less I had a safc on a 86 n/a and my experience was that the mixture needed to be leaned out especially around five grand.

 

me and ddub have the same problem... the adjustments are backwards...

now i am real confused.


so in all effect, i dont have to remove my airpump to stop air going to the (no longer there) cats...???

is this blue connector on the acv or air pump?

 

and if i do remove the blue connector.. will this still allow my 6 port actuators to run off backpressure?

 

anyone?

 

i would like to figure this out so i dont have to remove the damn thing, but stiop the air from going to exhaust

 

This is not a permanent solution, just a test.
And You really should bump in one day, the admins will get you for it.

 

damn.
ok, well then, if i remove the airpump, and acv, can i just plug the tube that went to my cats?, or do i have to disconect it from my straight pipe and weld it over?

the reason i ask is because i cannot afford to do any exhaust work right now, unless i can perform it.. (shop charges are a bitch)

 

What are you talking about? No one has mentioned anything about the exhaust, it was suggested that you test your wideband to make sure it's working properly.

Also, if you've removed your cats your 5th/6th ports are not working anyways since they are moved based on back pressure from the exhaust in S4 cars. Since you've removed the cats there is not enough back pressure, this in turn would create a more Rich running engine.

 

Check you have the right AFM type selected. It sounds like the S-AFC2 is expecting to see a signal voltage than rises with load, when in fact the opposite is true with our AFM's. For S4's the setting should be Flap type 05.

 

i am 100% sure it is flap type 05.

and.. i am not running rich.

i am running lean, as far as my wideband tells me.
i run about 14.7 at idle.. and around 14 - 17 at WOT.

i never ever backfire, and the only way i can make it back fire is to "subtract" fuel with the SAFC, to about -10 %

 

Theres no way you'd be actually running that lean under any sort of load..
It would start to buck and cut out like an absolute bitch.

 

well, then somethings fucked.
i have to stop the air from going to where the cats were, without removing the airpump or acv.

is this possible?

 

Yes, by doing what Hailers said.

 

parastie just siad that it cannot be used all the time... just as a test.??

 

You were asking about the ramifications of what was offered, i said it doesn't need to be all the time, just a test. If it works then leave it.

 

The RELIEF SOLENOID is located on the left side of the engine. If you disconnect this BLUE electrical plug from it, the ACV WILL dump the air overboard. To prove this to YOURSELF, not me, pull the large hose off the bottom of the ACV. With the engine idling, there should be but a whisp of air coming out. Now remove the BLUE connector from the RELIEF SOLENOID. The air coming out of the ACV should now have risen dramatically. The MEANING of this is .......the air is not going to the exaust ports anymore, it's being dumped overboard.

Now I'l go back and read what you've been writing.

 

The idea here, is to show you that at idle, a RX-7's AFR is NOT 14.whatever. It is closer to 13afr or 12.somethingorother afr.

The AFR at idle reads 14.whatever, BECAUSE, the Air Control Valve sends air to .....the exaust port. The exaust ports are located just prior to the header. There is where the acv air is mixed with the exaust gasses.

The 02 sensor is located........after the exaust ports. Now you know/realize why the wideband sees LEAN at idle.

To find out just what your AFR really is at idle, do what I recommended earlier. Pull the Relief Solenoid electrical plug off. It is BLUE in color. NOW the acv air is NOT going to the exaust ports. It is now being dumped overboard.

And so help me God, if some SQUID writes and starts talking about the split air pipe ....I'll rip his typing finger off.

 

Look. You are concerned about the catalytic converter being ruined. No sweat. Like the parasite said (humor), it's just a test and a way of demonstrating how stuff works (A very good site called HOW STUFF WORKS.COM).

To save the catalytic converter, just put the Blue plug back on and leave it on.

Like the fellow above said, the 02 has NO input at idle or when at full throttle. Full throttle in series four terms is anytime above about twenty percent throttle. Although be aware that you can acheive about 75 mph without the TPS coming full travel. But you have to use a light foot to do that.

So now you know how to tell what your real afr is at IDLE and a little bit more information.

 

I don't understand why he would be worried about a cat, in his first post he says he doesn't have one.

 

My reading comprehension .....ain't so gud.

No catalytic converter? Leave the Blue plug off all the time then so you can see real afr readings at idle.

 

No cat? Why are the air pump and ACV even fitted then? They're not achiving anything useful.

 

cool, i have a better understanding niow.

but.. i still have one question. lol.

if my readings at WOT are lean, and the airpump dumps all the air overboard at wot, why would my readings be soo lean? - i could care less about low throttle, i am tuning for WOT.

 

ok, i just pulled the blue connector.. it made it read 11.9 at idle..
seems good to me, but what im wondering is if having the blue connector off will stop all air being shot into my exhaust at all times?

thanks
cam

also.. wouldn't just pulling the connector remove all of your emmisions essentially, without physically removing the airpump/acv?