there is a line, I guess it is something to do with emissions, and I have to go smog my car...so..any help is appreciated guys, tanks.




its the little black wire just kinda chilin by itself..looks lke i goes into whatever little nipple lookin thing is right next to it....

 

halp plox

 

No bumps allowed or needed. It's only been an hour since you posted.

The split air solenoid is broken, but the good news is it's not used during an emissions test, so it won't affect the measurements. You may fail the visual with it hanging there, so disconnect it or glue it in place, etc...

 

coo, thanks!!! what does it do?

 

i searched on here, and in google, and the best answers i got is that you can buy a split air block of plate for tii motors..mine is n/a....

 

ROTORYROCKET88- wont a non-working split air solenoid affect emissions somewhat though? I mean If it is NOT working the air from the air pump is directed to the vent and not used at all. When it is working it is directed to the main cat to help heat the cat to optimum temps and add a little more air in the mix to lean out measurements a tiny bit, or directed to the exhaust ports for the afterburn assist.

correct me if I am wrong though, Thats just what I thought it was for. So in a nutshell it WOULD help with emissions, how much it actually helps can be debated though. But like I said, i could be wrong and would like clarification as well.

 

For emissions testing purposes, you shouldn't block off anything.

The split air solenoid valve opens when you shift into 5th gear, directing supplementary air to the cat (hence, unneeded for emissions test).

You'll want to study the diagrams starting on page F1-60 in the FSM:

http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/s5...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf

Follow the instructions to check that your air pump is working and that the ACV is functioning correctly.

Here is a basic description of ACV function:
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=73&co=1&vi=1

Port air and split air will help heat up the cat under certain cold conditions (link above).

In the unlikely event that your ACV isn't working (and is contributing to failing the test), you can get a replacement used part for $cheap.

BTW, is your check engine light on?

 

The check engine light isn't on. The car failed by 100ppm on the HC portion of the smog test. My car was about 110ppm over and after changing the catalyst passed just fine. We have a new magnaflow cat ready to go on this week.

So, basically we just need to fix this so it will pass visual? Our main concern is getting it smogged and any other little things can be handled later.

 

Just make it look like it's fixed... I have never encountered a guy from a garage that knew what was supposed to be under the hood of an RX7 and what isn't.

 

yep, they don't physically test those connections so, if it looks normal they won't hassle you about it. a good cat or a thoroughly warmed up engine should pass if it is only out by 100ppm.

 

Further proof if you need it, I once cut the heat shield off of an old cat and welded it around my exhaust pipe where the cat should be. This was because I get yearly waivers, and I don't actually get the sniffer test, just a visual. Passed every time.

I ended up taking it off because of the annoying rattle it made.

 

Sounds good. Just need to weld on the new cat and get some tape/glue! Thanks.

 

Nope. The split air solenoid is only active in 5th gear. No emissions test takes place in 5th gear. Inside the ACV there's a 1/16" hole that always allows air to flow into the split air pipe (so long as the ACV's relief is closed), but the 3/16" hole opened by the split air solenoid is only open in 5th gear. By contrast the port air path is giant (1"?), and the primary way air mixes with the exhaust gases prior to the catalytic converter.

I've never tried it (because I'd fail the visual), but I'm sure you could pass a smog sniffer test with the split air pipe disconnected entirely.

 

Oohh ok. Thanks for the clarification.