Sanman

Hi everyone,
I'm getting the same timing readings for both L1 and T1 on my '87 T2, and I was wondering if this is normal when the car is in a 'cold' condition. Could someone check the timing on there car when it's cold to verify this? As far as I know this would be some new info if it's true.

Thanks, Sandro. '87 T2

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You can't check timing unless the car is at or near 750 RPM. Anything else and the ECU will be altering the timing.

Dale

Sniper_X

What ARE you talking about?

same timing readings?

You mean the yellow and/or red mark is showing up on the leading AND trailing plugs?

Bad2ndgen

that just ain't right

Sanman

That's exactly what I'm getting. I've checked everything over! I get the same readings for both L1 and T1. The idle is at 1200 RPM, but I don't think L1 and T1 should be the same ever. A guy at Mazdees here in Toronto said some Rx's do that when cold. I'm trying to verify that with other cars. That's what I meant in my first post - So can you guys check your cars when they're cold please, I'm curious to know what everyone gets.

Thanks Again.

RETed

I've heard someone who had this problem diagnosed it to a bad or misadjusted TPS...


-Ted

HAILERS

Ewwwwwwwwwwww! You mean get up in the morning and put a timing light on the car? And see if both the lead and trail are hitting the same mark???? Toooo darn early to be doing that. Wait a minute. If the rpm is over 1100 the timing should be toooo far advanced for the marks to hit the pointer. In fact the marks should be almost too far on the other side for me to see them. They can't be hitting the marks at 1200 rpm or the timing has been set much too retarded in the first place.

Ok. When I get home today I'll start up the n/a and have a timing light at the ready. Later. Oh, if you read this, please reply about the marks. Are you acutally seeing the marks aligned with the pointer when the car is at 1200rpm????????????????

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I fought with this for ages, if it's over 1K, they look to be firing at the same time, once you get it down to 750however, that's when you'll notice they are different.

Sanman

Ok, here's what I see. First of all, the car won't idle at 750, even if I block off some of the air supply. It'll hit +/- 1000, and then die. However, the marks are exactly the same. They (L1, T1) are hitting an inch 'advanced' from the red mark on the pulley. I'm not really concerned about where the marks are, because I know the ECU advance is kicking in. I've tested it and the marks do move with more RPM, but I'm wondering if my high idle problem is caused by the timing being totally screwed. I know that advancing the timing will generally bring up your idle. I've been through EVERYTHING idle related on the car, and after changing the ECU, I really have nothing else to check!

So I think my next step is to swap the CAS if you guys don't get the same reading as me.

If you do run the test Hailers, can you tell me what your timing looks like at 1200 as well (L and T)?

Thanks a lot!, San.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Well you're not going to get it right with the car idling at more than 1K, you're going to have to 'restab' the CAS and then get that idle down to 750

Sanman

I will try to 'restab' it tonight. While I have the CAS off, is there anything I should test / clean?

HAILERS

Ok. When I first start the car the rpms are around 1300 for quite a while due to the fast idle cam not coming off the roller. While at 1300 the timing is advanced. If one were to look from front to the rear, the yellow or first mark if you will, is about an inch to the left of the fixed pointer. The red mark is somewhere to the left of that mark. Its hard to see it because its too far to the left for my eyes.

When the idle comes down the timing is spot on. I was using the timing light on the LEAD plugs when doing this.

Like the man said, your timing needs to be set around 750. I noticed the following........when the car was full warm and timing spot on, I advanced the rpms. The actual point that the ECU advanced the timing was real close to 1200rpm. I did this several times. 1200 seems to be the rpm it starts advancing.

Like they say. Restab the cas. Remember to take the black top off the cas. When you align the marks on the bottom of the cas, and have the yellow mark on the pulley aligned with the fixed pointer, take time to look into the TOP of the cas. Make a mental note where the moving pointers are in relationship to a fixed spot on the cas.......Now stab the cas. After stabing, look in the top and note that the fixed and moving parts you took note of, probably have moved. Turn the body of the cas until those marks align again. Comprende?????