steiner_5000

I got an 86 GXL for a project car to play with...it sat for about 3 years until i got it. I can start it up and it will run for about 20-30 seconds then stall and die. It'll do this about 2-3 times then it won't start at all. I put in a new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and had the tank cleaned out. What do I do next? SOMEBODY HELP!!!

amishboy

Take out the new spark plugs does the front two look the same as the back two or another words are they all black or look burnt ?

speedieFC

i instald a switch for my fuel pump and with it off it will do the same thing. it will catch and die like u said a few times untill i turn it on so sounds like a bad connection from my view

rx7onfire

iTrader: (10)

I had a car that did the exat same thing and it ended up being the fuel pressure reg. You can test it by pinching the return line, where the fuel goes back to the tank, and then have somebody crank the car. If it keeps running, theres your problem. Good luck!

steiner_5000

THanKX 4 the help rx7onfire I'll give that a try.....and to refer to the post before with the spark plugs..if their black that means its running really rich doesn't it?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Probaby the fuel pump relay located in the air flow meter, or a severe vac. leak. Try jumpering the fuel pump test connector (located near the pressure sensor, yellow connector, two wire)

steiner_5000

what will it do when I jump the test connecter

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

force the fuel pump to run regardless of the AFM switch. If it still doesn't stay running, it's either A) not enough compression or B) vac leak or C) not enough fuel/ecu issue/sensors/etc.

steiner_5000

How could I tell If it is a vacuumm leak

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Hold the AFM door open by hand while someone cranks it, you'll have to vary how far you have it open but by holding it, if it's a vac leak you should be able to get the car started and to idle (even if roughly/etc) by this method. If it's a bad rotor, no dice. If your switch is bad for the relay, that again won't work either. Process of elimination.

steiner_5000

WOW....you have really helped me out...thx so much. One question though...how the helll do you know this stuff

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I've had to do it about 8000 times.

steiner_5000

I have a question that might sound stupid to you rotary pros but where and what is the AFM

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

It's called the Air Flow Meter, it's located right behind the airbox, basically you can remove the top of the airbox and the filter and reach down inside it to hold the door open, or you can remove the whole assembly to do it, it's the grey box bolted onto the back of the black air box.

steiner_5000

I actually have the whole air tunnel removed up to the butterflies right now..it hasn't made any difference.

Adam

hook it back up, car wont run without the airtunnel hooked up. it will never start without the airtunnel,(at least with me) you need air flow thru the AFM to open the door so the fuel pump works for one,

steiner_5000

It doesn't make a difference either way though

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Chances are your AFM is malfunctioning or the wiring is bad, as stated, it must be hooked up for the car to run.

Adam

you asked for help, so we are trying to help. you cant get car to run correct? hook the air ducts back up then try an unflooding the damn thing

steiner_5000

well thankx for the help....I really appreciate it. I'll see what I can do.

steiner_5000

I also heard for someone if the car has sat for a while the seals could "dry out" and the car will never start again....would this have anything to do with my problem??

HAILERS

On the whole, that advice is hogwash. Ain't so, Never will be so. Apex seals are made of.....metal. And the other seals are not lubricated with water or oil or anything else

HAILERS

Since the car will/has started several times, and YOU said it ran for about thirty seconds, then I vote for a very large air leak. Not some piddly small vacuum hose but something on the order of a brake booster feed line off or a intake duct off, or a very loose clamp on the duct b/t the afm and the throttle body.

If you EVER get it to start again, see if it actually only runs for approx 17 seconds instead of what you estimated as thirty seconds. Write back when you get it to start again.

Like the man said, reinstall all the ducting prior to starting the car. Ain't hardly gonna work without the ducting in place.

There is a free online factory service manual online. Links to it are on this site.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

that, or, hold he damn AFM flapper so that it runs even with a vac leak.

steiner_5000

ok....I put everything back together and found I was missing a clamp around the tunnel coming off the AFM...I put a new one on and the car will start and run for about 17 seconds like you said.. Now it will start every time but will keep keep dying. What is wrong now??