hummm. I used devcon high temp pliable gasket maker. Its a charcoal grey. Never had any issues. O-ring was pretty much glued in place before the housings were assembled. I also put a healty layer on the rotor housings.

So, the land for the o-ring was beaded with it, layed the o-ring in the land, (wich gooed the sealant all over) wetted the top of the o-ring, and then wetted the rotor housing mating surfaces. And then stuck the housings together.

Sure you didn't roll the o-ring, or maybe put it in on its side?

 

If it were the radiator cap... you would need to bring the motor up to temp before any spewage would be likely.

This sounds exactly like my blown coolant seal. (the reason for my rebuild)


EDIT: oh, and for less than a buck we can settle this dispute. Go to wally world or some auto parts place and get a headgasket test kit. should have little paper strips designed to detect exhaust in the cooling system. If I'm wrong I'll paypal you for the kit. And if I'm right, I'll rebuild your motor for 1500.

 

trust me man it's not the coolant seal, i didn't roll it upon installation i made sure of that, it's the cap

 

Little update. Yesterday I started my car up again, this time with no thermostat. I bleed everything correctly. The day before I ran the car and it had dumped extra coolent into the resovoir and durring the night it sucked it all back. I cranked it over a few times with the fuel cut off switch off. The top flat cap by the thermostat housing was leaking because I could here it hissing. I had a extra shitty non OEM radiator cap, that I through on there. I though I could here that one very slightly hissing. Anyways, I started it up, and it kicked some coolent out into the resovoir and air. Drove it around for a 10 minutes, came back and shut it off before it started to overheat. Anyways, I ordered new mazda flat cap, and radiator cap, along with a mazda thermostat. I'll let you guys know if that was the problem.

Also, as for who rebuild my engine. I'll post it once I can get ahold of him. I would not want him to think that I was bashing his work without knowing what the real problem is. If the radiator caps does not fix it, then I might start getting pissed, but considering who rebuild it, I figure (and hope) that the caps are all it is.

Thanks again everyone for you help.

 

"If it were the radiator cap... you would need to bring the motor up to temp before any spewage would be likely."

That's not exactly right. The system builds pressure from expansion a long time before the motor reaches full temp and the thermostat opens. If the plunger on the cap were not seating you could get leakage to the overflow bottle before the radiator got hot.


Rob

 

Ok, a little update. I installed the OEM thermostat and radiator caps, last night. When I started it up today I blew white smoke out, the resivoir still filled up, the engine ran hot, and the heater quit blowing air. I am almost out of options here. Anyone with Ideas here.

 

the OEM thermo or a new OEM thermo?

 

Blowing white makes me think a seal is in wrong or one of the seal grooves has cracked. If that's the case your car will not run much longer. Pull it back apart and save your self the hassle of warping stuff.

 

new OEM

 

Hummm.... I, uh... you already know the rest.

Let me know if you want a Zen motor.

 

thanks...I guess...it sucks alot though. I dont even have 50 miles on my damn engine.