Hey all,

I am having a problem here. I got my new engine installed and running fine, but it overheats fairly quickly. The coolent resovoir also just fills up with coolent way past the fill mark, and if I leave it like that, then I get a low coolent buzzer because then there is no coolent left. Yet if I add more coolent, the already filled resovior just pours out.
A side note, is that I can tell when it is going to get REALLY overheated. At a certin point, the heater turns from blowing hot air to cool air, right after that the temp gauge shoot up.

Thanks for you help everyone, I realy want to fix this so that I can break my car in.

 

Oh, I have run it both with and with out thermostats. I really am thinking that the problem might be that pressure is leaking out. I dont know I might be way off, I have been racking my brain trying to figure what could be wrong.

Could removing my AC be part of it?

Thanks again

 

my friends car was doing the same when i told him if the thermo stat was in he didnt know ,we put one in since the one was gone and it worked fine.the other alt is the heater core is out

 

blowing hot air then suddenly cold?

overheating is BBBBBBAAAAAAADDDDD on rotaries.. much moreso than piston engines..

 

absolutely, positively run a OEM thermostat. check for small leaks at absolutely every possible connection. Where did the engine come from? is it a rebuild? were new coolant seals put in?

as many will tell you it will only take one or more big overheat and yer coolant seals are gone and the engine will push compression into the coolant system.. How long does it take to over heat? if you are trying to add coolant while the engine is running and it just bubbles out then it sounds like some internal engine issues.

sorry bro.

 

It is a rebuild, new coolent seals were installed I am pretty sure the coolent seals are fine. It is not burning coolent or anything like that. What it does it burp all the coolent out into the resovoir and then there is not enough coolent in the system. I have added coolent to it while it is running.
Also I retightened all the hoses, and it is not leaking coolent, and there is no smoke at all either. Could I somehow have a leak that is sucking air in?
What else could it be?

 

something is wrong there man

thats just wierd

ive never heard of that

 

Yeah something is wrong

 

Is the gauge showing an overheat or is it that you just are loosing fluid into the overflow tank???

If it is just filling the overflow tank I would be replacing the rad cap with a stock OEM Mazda cap.

 

Have someone crank the engine while you look at the resevior. If it bubles, you have a problem on your hands. A warped housings is possibly causing a pressurization of the cooling system (bad).

 

The gauge is also showing 3/4 - 5/6 when it starts to overheat. I shut it off at that point. Sometimes though it is fine. Once I thought I had it fixed. It idle at about 1/2 for 45 min, I drove it around and the temp dropped a bit. Came back and let it idle for another 15 min, and it was not overheating. It had kicked some of the coolent out, but it was not overflowing. When I started the car up about 3 hours later, it idled fine, but after drivining it around the block it started to overheat. I shut it down, and it was kicking more coolent out even though it was kinda low on coolent.

Thanks

 

I'd still be replacing the cap with a new OEM one

 

Dont you crank the engine to get bubble out?

 

no, you need to bleed the system

if you are geeting bubbles when cranking you may gave a blown water seal on the motor

 

No you crank the engine to see if the resevior bubbles. BTW I hope that isn't what's wrong, but before you throw money into stuff check this. It means your exhaust is pressurizing the system. Is your add coolant light or buzzer on? If so, you may just have a air pocket in your radiator or something.

 

how exactly do you bleed the coolant system?

 

Do what Icemark says. Replace your radiator cap.

Rob

 

Maybe I am doing something wrong then with bleeding the system. I alwaysw pull out the bleed check valve and plug it as coolent is running out while you are filling it. Then I continue to fill it until it reaches the neck of the cap above the thermostat.

Thanks

 

hey man do like the man says and replace the cap my friends car did the exact same thing the other day. i took the cap off my rx7 and put it on his, the car ran cooler and the fluid resevoir didn't overflow anymore

 

Who did the rebuild?

 

Maybe the guy messed up the coolant rings on the rebuild...not to hard to do

 

no man the engine was assembled correctly i was present when the thing was put together

 

What did you use to lubricate and seal the water control rings?

 

hylomar and then i think it was some black magic (i think) gasket maker, it's made by the same company as the hylomar

 

but like i said earlier it's not the engine it's the radiator cap. my friends gxl was doing the exact same thing. it would run hotter than normal, then you could shut it off and you could hear like boiling sounds coming from the radiator and coolant resevoir. we also emptied the resevoir, filled up the radiator and then drove around for five minutes, shut it off and the bottle was full again. then i switched caps from my car drove around and it was fixed